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Old May 19, 2010 | 11:00 PM
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Default still HOT

Well - I couldnt get an IR gun to check the temp but it's running HOT enough to boil out the overflow tube when I shut it off .
327/300 just rebuilt by reputable shop

I redid the timing and it's running GREAT at 10*
The fan clutch is new
The water pump is freshly rebuilt
The radiator was just flushed out when a leak was plugged/welded
The shroud is in great shape .
plenty of coolant .

I'm going nuts trying figure this out ! I've still got some time before I take it to a car show in Las Vegas June 4th,5th and 6th. I'm gonna trailer it there but would really like to be able to drive it around some
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Old May 19, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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..did you get a "new" radiator cap also?

...checkfunction of new fan clutch. I've seen a couple that we're defective when new.

...slow timing will make one overheat quickly. Make sure the harmonic balancer timing mark is accurate. Outside of the balancer could have slipped on the hub.

Do you have an aluminum or copper radiator?
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Old May 19, 2010 | 11:09 PM
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My car also ran hot. Did you fill the radiator to the top? I found that my car also puked coolant to a certain level then it would stop. It seemed to find it's own level of coolant needed.
Shemp
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Old May 19, 2010 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
Well - I couldnt get an IR gun to check the temp but it's running HOT enough to boil out the overflow tube when I shut it off .
327/300 just rebuilt by reputable shop

I redid the timing and it's running GREAT at 10*
The fan clutch is new
The water pump is freshly rebuilt
The radiator was just flushed out when a leak was plugged/welded
The shroud is in great shape .
plenty of coolant .

I'm going nuts trying figure this out ! I've still got some time before I take it to a car show in Las Vegas June 4th,5th and 6th. I'm gonna trailer it there but would really like to be able to drive it around some
i would suspect the re built pump and or the rad.....possible head gasket .....how hot is the gauge reading and do you have the right cap??
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Old May 20, 2010 | 01:35 AM
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Default still hot

the guage is reading about 225-230* and the rad cap isn't new but seems to hold pressure (15psi) .
Maybe I should revisit the rebuilt water pump .
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Old May 20, 2010 | 08:04 AM
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Flushing out an old radiator that had a leak is a red flag to me. Look into a Dewitt's aluminum radiator and your problem may be solved.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 08:18 AM
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What temp Thermostat is installed?

Seems like a dumb question, but are you certain one is installed?

If Yes, Is it good?

RK
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Old May 20, 2010 | 09:12 AM
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Make sure your using a "correct" GM fan clutch, not just a replacement from your auto parts store. They are expensive but solved my overheating problem. Also make sure your seals are installed on the fan shroud. LOTS of posts about overheating...do a search and start reading and you will find tons of info.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 09:41 AM
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You still need to ascertain the actual temperature. If you have a kitchen meat thermometer you could tape the probe to the underside of the upper hose. As Shemp says you could have overfill the system and its just finding its level. If the temp is accurate then I would suspect the radiator especially if its original or copper. Also are you running a correct and functioning VAC?
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Old May 20, 2010 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by capevettes
Flushing out an old radiator that had a leak is a red flag to me. Look into a Dewitt's aluminum radiator and your problem may be solved.


I would check both inlet and outlet temperatures at idle and at around 2000 RPM. Also make certain all radiator and shroud seals are in place.

Do you overheat at idle only or while driving??

You can also install pieces for factory AC car to help in cooling, especially at idle.

Radiator caps can be checked at various parts stores and shops, but if radiator hose feels solid when warm/hot, cap is probably ok.

Use 180 F thermostat, and check operation before installing (using hot water).

Larry
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Old May 20, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Powershift


I would check both inlet and outlet temperatures at idle and at around 2000 RPM. Also make certain all radiator and shroud seals are in place.

Do you overheat at idle only or while driving??

You can also install pieces for factory AC car to help in cooling, especially at idle.

Radiator caps can be checked at various parts stores and shops, but if radiator hose feels solid when warm/hot, cap is probably ok.

Use 180 F thermostat, and check operation before installing (using hot water).

Larry
Agree with all of this and the answers will really help sort out real issues. What bothers me was your original comment of "Plenty of coolant". If you overfill the coolant using the "More is better" philosophy, it will puke the excess even if it's running at a perfect temp. It needs the space to expand when it heats up and if it doesn't have it - over the side goes the excess.

That's my 2 cents.

Geek
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Old May 20, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
Well - I couldnt get an IR gun to check the temp but it's running HOT enough to boil out the overflow tube when I shut it off .
327/300 just rebuilt by reputable shop

I redid the timing and it's running GREAT at 10*
The fan clutch is new
The water pump is freshly rebuilt
The radiator was just flushed out when a leak was plugged/welded
The shroud is in great shape .
plenty of coolant .

I'm going nuts trying figure this out ! I've still got some time before I take it to a car show in Las Vegas June 4th,5th and 6th. I'm gonna trailer it there but would really like to be able to drive it around some
Make sure the lower radiator hose has a spring in it or it will collapse due to suction from the pump and stop the flow of coolant.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by capevettes
Flushing out an old radiator that had a leak is a red flag to me. Look into a Dewitt's aluminum radiator and your problem may be solved.

I had this same problem in my 327-300hp, too, after a rebuild. Before the engine was rebuilt the original radiator had just enough cooling margin to keep the engine from overheating. Overheating was kept in check so long as airflow was moving through the radiator. Not more than a few minutes of engine idling got the temp gauge moving fairly quickly to the right.

After the engine rebuild there was no way to keep the engine from overheating. A newly rebuilt engine will run hotter as it wears in. A new Harrison aluminum radiator replaced the old one. No overheating problems after that.

Aluminum radiators (stacked plate) can be flushed out but it likely won't be enough to remove built up scale that forms in the tube runners. These radiators can't be rodded out.

Years later the replacement Harrison radiator eventually developed a leak....................and the overheating problem was back, also. This radiator too, was now worn out. Once a leak develops, the radiator is likely toast. Other leaks are likely to spring.

A new DeWitt's replaced that Harrison.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 05:47 PM
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Did they replace the temp sending unit as part of the rebuild? Not sure if C2's have the same issue but an over-the-counter sending unit will not work properly in a C1 - wrong resistance values and it just pegs out.
I'd also be tempted to throw in a few more degrees of advance and see if things improve.

DT
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Old May 20, 2010 | 07:49 PM
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After all this, I'm wondering if (dumb question) could I have installed the fan wrong ?
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Old May 20, 2010 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
After all this, I'm wondering if (dumb question) could I have installed the fan wrong ?
I think it's possible!
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Old May 20, 2010 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
After all this, I'm wondering if (dumb question) could I have installed the fan wrong ?
Don't know how hard it is to get to the front of the radiator on a C2, but if you can reach it from underneath, start her up and hold a sheet of paper in front of the radiator and see if she sucks or blows!

DT
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Old May 20, 2010 | 08:06 PM
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If the center hub/spider arms are on the engine side (vs. the radiator side) of the fan blades, the fan is installed correctly.

We still don't know what you have for a radiator.

We still don't know what your ACTUAL coolant temperature is.

We still don't know if your vacuum advance can is working, how much advance it's adding at idle, and whether it's connected to a full manifold vacuum source.

If you "fill" the expansion tank, it'll puke coolant on the ground. You fill the tank to the HALF-FULL mark with the coolant COLD; if you don't leave room for the coolant to expand, it expands on the ground.


Last edited by JohnZ; May 20, 2010 at 08:12 PM.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 10:12 PM
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I have an aftermarket radiator with no marking that I can find . It's not an original that's for sure .
Coolant temp is unknown except the guage reads around 225-230 . I still dont have an IR gun .
coolant level is 1/2 of the tank when cold .
removed the thermostat today and it ran up steadly to 215* in about 30 min .
Had to go to work and left the car in that condition .
maybe a kitchen thermo will give me a better idea of how hot it's really getting .
guess I'll have to learn more about VAC'S so I can answer your questions about it .
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Old May 21, 2010 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
removed the thermostat today and it ran up steadly to 215* in about 30 min .
Had to go to work and left the car in that condition .
maybe a kitchen thermo will give me a better idea of how hot it's really getting .
I'm curious as to what is the temp stamped on the Thermostat you removed? Should be a 180.

If you have a kitchen thermo, drop the removed thermostat in a pot of water and start to heat up. Watch the thermostat and see when/if it opens, fully, and at what temp....

RK

Last edited by RoadKing96; May 21, 2010 at 06:23 AM.
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