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Crate engine. Enough power.

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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 07:44 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Westlotorn
Kensmith, can I ask if 450 pounds of torque is still driveable, some have mentioned traction becomes an issue. I am considering a similar upgrade from the L79.
What trans and differential are you running? Thanks for the help.
It's fine. I have a Keissler Tremec TKO 600 5 speed, 4.11 rear end.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 07:50 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by vetrod62
Regarding crate engines, I would be very careful. Recently I have seen two engines that from mail order that really suck. First one advertised as 450 HP. Lucky to make 350 HP.

The second one from Colorado with a Dyno sheet. 434 sbc, 600+ HP. Lucky to have 500 HP that is in an early vette. It first ran 13.20s , I was able to tune it down to 11.70s. I have since taken it apart and every thing in the engine is crap.

The heads are crap, and offset ported so the manifold does not line up correctly, the cam is crap, the roller rockers are cheap Chinese crap, the timing case cover is crap (needed to locate the roller cam) and the roller cam button was the wrong size, The intake was crap and leaked oil from the tappet valley, and the ATI super damper was over honed and fell off when I removed the crank bolt. I would guess this engine sold for $9000. I will fix this engine an get it back the 600+ it was advertised.

I know you are not looking for this level of performance, but what I am saying is, either know your engine builder very well or build it yourself. If you must get a crate engine, buy a GM with a guarantee. Jegs and Summit are trusted names, but I am sure they do not build their engines. If the engine is advertised for 400 HP, expect 350 HP. That is the real world.
Yes and no, you need to buy from a BIG reputable builder of NASCAR motors like T&L. They claimed 440hp om my motor and it actually dyno at 449 or 448hp, so more than advertised. You want to make sure parts are well known name brands, not cheap unknown stuff.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 11:46 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Kensmith
Yes and no, you need to buy from a BIG reputable builder of NASCAR motors like T&L. They claimed 440hp om my motor and it actually dyno at 449 or 448hp, so more than advertised. You want to make sure parts are well known name brands, not cheap unknown stuff.
I still do not trust even the big reputable builders. They can make the high line engines and market low line engine to the masses. Like Shelby and his Cobras. I bought a lot of internal parts from Scott Shafiroff Racing in Long Island NY back in 1997 for my 532 blown, injected engine. Big racer and engine supplier. They gave me a shop tour and I was shocked to see short blocks being put together with impact guns, not torque wrenches.

I had them do a basic internal crank balance on my new $2400 Callies crank, so that my trusted guy would re balance to perfect. They f-ed the balance up so bad that we had to install so much Mallory metal to get it right, the crank looked stupid.

I build and spec. all my engines myself, except for machine work.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 11:58 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by stix818
Can't go wrong with a GM crate motor.. My project vette has a 383 in it with about 550 HP and it was driveable until my oldman crashed it A LONG time ago.. Going back with a set of Canfields this time.. vetrod, do you know where those are being assembled? Bummer that they have all that chinese chit in them..
GM crate engines are a great bargain for the money. They will never produce the HP/Torque of a well built competition engine. My block and final bore on the 395 sbc cost more than many crate engines. I do not know where the engines are assembled, Mexico??, I have never bought one, as I build all my engines myself.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 12:08 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by TheSaint
Do you think there will be any differnce in horse power if you use 2,5" or 3,0" exhaust system?
Talking about the exhaust systemm on a crate engine that is
2.5" should be fine. I run long tube headers and turn the same ETs with the exhaust on or open headers. My exhaust is 2.5" , mandrel bends and Super 40s, full length and over the axle.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 12:12 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by vetrod62
I still do not trust even the big reputable builders. They can make the high line engines and market low line engine to the masses. Like Shelby and his Cobras. I bought a lot of internal parts from Scott Shafiroff Racing in Long Island NY back in 1997 for my 532 blown, injected engine. Big racer and engine supplier. They gave me a shop tour and I was shocked to see short blocks being put together with impact guns, not torque wrenches.

I had them do a basic internal crank balance on my new $2400 Callies crank, so that my trusted guy would re balance to perfect. They f-ed the balance up so bad that we had to install so much Mallory metal to get it right, the crank looked stupid.

I build and spec. all my engines myself, except for machine work.
Same here except we just started machining our own stuff.. Still send things out to a VERY good balancer though..

Man that is a horror story!!! Bummer about the crank!!!!
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 12:22 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by stix818
Same here except we just started machining our own stuff.. Still send things out to a VERY good balancer though..

Man that is a horror story!!! Bummer about the crank!!!!
That is OK, Engine is still pulling 7500 all these years later.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 01:10 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by vetrod62
That is OK, Engine is still pulling 7500 all these years later.
So, you still racing the vette? If so, would you mind devulging some info on it? My oldman drag raced mine from 67 to 70 something so I'm just Curious.. I live, breath and dream drag "boat" racing so I like hearing what combos everyone is running? I didn't mean anything by that last post by the way.

Sorry for the thread hijack
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 11:33 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by stix818
So, you still racing the vette? If so, would you mind devulging some info on it? My oldman drag raced mine from 67 to 70 something so I'm just Curious.. I live, breath and dream drag "boat" racing so I like hearing what combos everyone is running? I didn't mean anything by that last post by the way.

Sorry for the thread hijack
My blown injected car now, was a street racer from 1966 to the early 70s. (marriage kind of slowed that down). We raced almost every night after closing the bars. The car went through 5 major transformations in the 44 years I have owned the car. The last transformation made it too fast to be allowed on the track , no roll cage and other rules. I got pissed and built the 395 SBC Black car. It is legal to 11.50. I/we have a race series, The North Jersey Outlaws, that races several times a year. Only Solid Axle cars can compete for the "King of the Hill" trophy. We basically use 1969 Modified Production rules. There are about 12 cars in our series. It is a lot of fun. Like the old days, but legal.

Hijack? I think this thread was done anyway.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 02:54 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TheSaint
But a Corvette 1999 C5 convertible is almost the same price as a Ferrari 355 here in Norway. Prices on cars ar crazy here
Norwegians are smart. They know which car is the best performance value.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 11:55 AM
  #31  
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I'm building a 383 stroker "driving" motor for my 65'. I'm having a very highly respected engine builder in this area build it from the ground up. It should dyno out around 535 HP and has the best parts available inside. It will cost me about 1K more than a similar powered crate motor, but the componets are not even close to what Tim is using. I wanted it bullet proof and that's what I'm getting.

The point is: do some research and you may be able to find someone such as I did who can build you what you want using much better componets. It'd be worth a try I think.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 12:02 PM
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How is it to bild a 383 crate engine and use the intake manifold with the oil fill tube like the original? Do you get a really good intake manifold with the oil fill tube thet fit a 350?
Just if you have a crate engine but want it to have the original valve covers and air filter, well the original look on the whole engine not including headers that is
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 02:30 PM
  #33  
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I was in Motor Machine Supershop in Carmichael CA this past week, they had just pulled a 383 off the Dyno and had the Dyno sheets there to inspect. 495 HP, 465 ft, max HP at 6200 rpm. Dart Aluminum Heads, Don Zemina is the owner, been doing this since mid 80's.
Don says with todays heads 500HP is not a problem at all. He could have gone with larger heads and cam and put the power at 600 but this one is more driveable.
He runs an honest dyno the numbers are real. I think this one was priced just over $6,000 but had everything but headers included. MSD, Carb, Water Pump The air fuel ratio was 12.5 to 12.7 from 3000 to 6,500. Looks like a plug and play engine swap.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
To quote the late Mark Donohue: "If you can lay down two black strips of rubber from the apex of one corner to the entry of the next corner, you have enough horsepower."
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