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60 temperature sending unit test

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Old May 31, 2010 | 10:48 AM
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Default 60 temperature sending unit test

When I take the wire off of the temp sending unit and turn the key on my gauge will move up about 1/8" off of cold.

Shouldn't there be absolutely no movement, zero, with the wire off and the key turned on?

With the wire off and then grounded the Gauge will peg to full hot.

Last edited by stratplus; May 31, 2010 at 10:59 AM.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by stratplus
When I take the wire off of the temp sending unit and turn the key on my gauge will move up about 1/8" off of cold.

Shouldn't there be absolutely no movement, zero, with the wire off and the key turned on?

With the wire off and then grounded the Gauge will peg to full hot.
With the wire off the sending unit and the key on, the gauge should peg to full cold.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
With the wire off the sending unit and the key on, the gauge should peg to full cold.
Thanks John.

It must be getting current from someplace.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 01:12 PM
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Default 60 electrical temp gauge issue I am going in circles

Originally Posted by stratplus
Thanks John.

It must be getting current from someplace.
Originally Posted by stratplus
Thanks John.

It must be getting current from someplace.
Going in circles on this. Does anyone have an idea?

This is what I have done so far.

The problem: After 10 minutes of running the temp gauge will slowly move to full hot and stay there. This only happens after running for about 10 minutes. I know that this temp is wrong and it is really running at 180.

2: Disconnected the temp sender wire at the engine, and disconnected the other end from temp gauge (right post). Ran a test wire from the temp sender over the windshield to the temp gauge right post, and with the key on the gauge went to the first 0 on the 100 temperature gauge dial. This means that the needle moves up about an 1/8 of an inch up from dead cold.

3: With the temp sender disconnected and the key on, the gauge will go to the 1 on the 100 temperature gauge, so it is not going as high as #2.

4: Tried different brand senders, the same results.

5: With a multimeter on the right post, and one to a good ground, and with the key on I get 12.46 volts. With the key off I get .03.

6: With the temp sender wire grounded to the engine, the temp gauge will immediately peg full hot.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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Well...first you have to make sure you don't have a temp sender for an 'idiot light' optioned car....it has to be the right one for a gauge. (Don't laugh...they DO get switched).

Next the sender should be somewhat close to these readings (attached) depending on the brand. If the sender is close then its something in your wiring or dash gauge.

PS I assume you know not to use any Teflon tape when you install the sensor.
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Temperature Sending Unit.doc (169.0 KB, 249 views)
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Well...first you have to make sure you don't have a temp sender for an 'idiot light' optioned car....it has to be the right one for a gauge. (Don't laugh...they DO get switched).

Next the sender should be somewhat close to these readings (attached) depending on the brand. If the sender is close then its something in your wiring or dash gauge.

PS I assume you know not to use any Teflon tape when you install the sensor.
I have used a Wells TU-5 that I tested in a pan on the stove and it was pretty good.

I have also used Dewitts sender $30, I did not pan test it. Tried it dry, it leaked, tried with teflon, and per Tom's recommendation, tried it with never seize.
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by stratplus
I have used a Wells TU-5 that I tested in a pan on the stove and it was pretty good.

I have also used Dewitts sender $30, I did not pan test it. Tried it dry, it leaked, tried with teflon, and per Tom's recommendation, tried it with never seize.
I am guessing that my temp gauge went bad. Is there a test to do on the gauge before I swap it out, just to make sure?
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 07:07 AM
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I think you've pretty much covered everything ... if the needle doesn't peg with the wire off the sender then I think the gauge is suspect.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 08:27 PM
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Default temperature pegs to past 240 degrees when key is turned on

Okay, I am wondering if the guage is not working properly. The blue wire is connect to the post closer to the steering column. The pink wire is connected the other post. I have two different temperature sending unit. I am wondering why it pegs right off the bat...

Thanks!
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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The positive wire was loose which caused the problem. Now, the gauge slowly goes right below 240 when it reads 185-190 at the thermostat. Now, I have to figure out why...
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jimh_1962
The positive wire was loose which caused the problem. Now, the gauge slowly goes right below 240 when it reads 185-190 at the thermostat. Now, I have to figure out why...
Classic crappy temp sender problem. Even the "calibrated" ones sold by well respected vendors often are junk. Ask me where the expensive "calibrated" one I bought from a big name vendor is sitting right now (hint, it rhymes with "garbage stan").
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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I replaced the temperature sending unit and now it is more like what I expected 180-190 then back down to 180 after warming up. Better!
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