Why do you feel that the second source supersedes the web site?

What is the second source?

 

Because I have found it to be correct in other cases of discrepant information...

HOWEVER - I just checked my Noland Adams C1 Tech Ref guide and it agrees with the web site. That being the case it may be that your tags are correct....the vote is 2 to 1 on the sources I have at this point. You are free to use, ignore or dispute any info I provide of course..but I reference the same resources that everybody else in the hobby has.

Its a shame because I was just up at Daytona Parts two days ago and they have the original microfiche engineering drawings for all vette WCFBs and I could have confirmed from the dates on the drawings (the drawings include tag numbers). They have two file cabinet drawers full of the drawings and an ancient microfiche reader.

 

I now have a vin # for you guys to dissect. E57S101471

 

Built in Nov. of 1956.

That's all the VIN tells ya. It's the 1471st. 57 built. They were all built in St. Louis, thus the "S" in the VIN.

Chuck

 

OK, so this is what I now know.

The car was built in November of 56.

The block I have was built in March of 57. The block is a 270hp 2x4.

The heads are 57 Fuelie heads.

The carbs are yet to be determined.

This engine is no good for this car if I wanted to do a NCRS job on it but could be very valuable to someone else.

 

Correction. The engine is perfect for your car if you don't have it judged or picked to death.

It's "almost" perfect even if you have it judged. I think you would only lose a few points on the casting date of the block. Head casting ID may cost a little. No way I would sell it if I had a car to go with it.

PS. I'm not into the judging thing. I'll leave it to those that are to assess point deductions.

 

 

The B277 translates as Feb. 27, 1957 as the casting date.

F305EG translates as the Assembly date, the date the block was assembled, which would be March 5, 1957.

As others have stated, the EG suffix is 270HP, Manual Trans.

With NCRS judging, with a casting date AFTER the assembly of the car, you'd lose a TON of points, about 175 to 180 as I recall without checking.

Again, if I remember correctly, the block is 350 points. If that's OK, you go to the date, ONLY if that's OK do you move on.

If the casting date is improper, you lose 175 or so, and the stamp pad is not judged.

So, roughly 175 points divided by 45 = is roughly 4 "big points". You'd be starting at a 96% score, and could lose only about 90 more little points before you hit 94%, the threshold for Top Flight.

Chuck

 

So, if I put this engine back in the car and tried to get a top flight it would be next to impossible. Is that correct? If so, what good would it do me to hold onto this engine? It does not go with the car what soever.

 

Wouldn't it be for the good of the Corvette World to sell this to someone who could use it to preserve a Corvette for the future?

 

IMO, It seems like you want to sell the engine. It that is what you want to do, then go ahead. Those that have responded to your question about the engine being correct seem to be telling you to consider keeping the engine (at least until you find another with the correct casting date). What you have is a real 57 Corvette engine. You have nearly all the correct components. You can achieve top flight with what you have. So, isn't a bird-in-the-hand worth two in the bush? You can always sell when you find a correct block but if this one runs, why not use it?

 

I put the vin number in the birthday finder on the C1registry and it says the car was built December 28, 1956. Where did you get your info from?

 

You could keep the heads, and sell the rest of the engine. Then use the heads and the cash to get you on your way towards building a fuelie "clone." Everyone else does that with the 57s, no worries!

 

If judging is in your future keep everything but the block and find a block cast prior to your build date of around Dec 28th 56 per The Birthday book...keep in mind these build date via vin #s are just guesstimates. Could well be + or - a couple days either way. If you want an engine bay that looks correct and a car to drive and have fun with keep what you have and say the hell with everyone else...Do you have any history on the car? It is possible this is a dealer warranty replacement block.

Chuck was thinking 56 and back on the build by vin# 56 started with 1001...57 started with 100001

 

First I would like ti thank all of you for all your help and opinions.

I have made my decision on what I want to do with this engine. I am going to disassemble it and sell the block and keep the rest and search for a correct block and go from there.

I do have a question though.

When I sell this block should I take the off everything?

I know I'm going to keep the heads and intake. Should I keep the oil pan too? what else should I keep?

Thanks

Joe

 

OK, forgive me for asking questions you may have already answered.

If you are looking to build a "correct" engine for this car (stampings, date codes, etc.) then none of the parts that you have will work.

Your car is a Late November / early December 56 build car, if I recall.

Your block is a late February / early March block - date codes is too late.

Your heads are dated April 2 & 4 of 1957 - date codes are too late.

Your carburetors are 58-61 versions - completely wrong numbers.

So, if your intention is to build a correct, matching numbers car, basically nothing you have works.

However, if your intention is to buiild a nice driver that "looks" period correct, then everything you have works.

I am not sure I understand your plan to sell just the block and keep everything else. That idea really doesn't work for either plan.

Having said all of this, it is your car and engine, and you can do what you wish with it.

FYI: The short block assembly is worth a good bit of money to someone needing a numbers correct engine for a March, 57 Corvette.

The two four setup is worth a good bit of money to someone needing a two four setup for a 58-61 Corvette (can be narrowed down by the date codes on the carb tags).

The 539 heads are a dime a dozen. A good used set (needing rebuild but no major parts) can be bought for $100 a set.

If the oil pan is the correct Corvette oil pan, it is also worth a good bit of money.

 

[QUOTE=emccomas;1574389271]OK, forgive me for asking questions you may have already answered.

If you are looking to build a "correct" engine for this car (stampings, date codes, etc.) then none of the parts that you have will work.

Your car is a Late November / early December 56 build car, if I recall.

Your block is a late February / early March block - date codes is too late.

Your heads are dated April 2 & 4 of 1957 - date codes are too late.

Your carburetors are 58-61 versions - completely wrong numbers.

So, if your intention is to build a correct, matching numbers car, basically nothing you have works.

However, if your intention is to buiild a nice driver that "looks" period correct, then everything you have works.

I am not sure I understand your plan to sell just the block and keep everything else. That idea really doesn't work for either plan.

Having said all of this, it is your car and engine, and you can do what you wish with it.

FYI: The short block assembly is worth a good bit of money to someone needing a numbers correct engine for a March, 57 Corvette.

The two four setup is worth a good bit of money to someone needing a two four setup for a 58-61 Corvette (can be narrowed down by the date codes on the carb tags).

The 539 heads are a dime a dozen. A good used set (needing rebuild but no major parts) can be bought for $100 a set.

If the oil pan is the correct Corvette oil pan, it is also worth a good bit of money.[/QUOTE

Thanks for your opinion but I wasn't aware that the heads were date coded. I thought they were just 57 fuelie heads. I thought I would hold on to them in case I found a fuelie block.

I have 2 sources that say the intake and carbs are 57 correct. The one online and the ncrs book I have, both say they are correct for a 57. I plan on keeping them in case I find a 270 block.

If the oil pan is correct then I will keep it too so I can have it when/if I find the right block.

The block I have does not date right to my car. So I might as well sell it.

At this present time I have a great driver with a 350 in it, but at some point I do plan to restore it so I'm thinking I need to start with the engine and the one I have is not right.

Keep you opinions coming as I can use all the help I can get.

Joe

 

Joe;

I am really curious about a reference that says these carbs are correct for a 57. Can you tell us specifically what these references are.

2613S and 2614S are 58-60/61, according to the latest info I have. Each carb tag will also have a date code on it. The date code will be below the number (2613S or 2614S). It will be something like D 8, with a smaller number below that. Ignore the smaller number, the date code is the letter and the digit, with represents the month and year (in this example D 8 is April, 1958).

The intake manifold casting number is the same from 1957 to 1961, but this also has a date code on it. The date code is on the bottom, underneath the oil splash shield, and almost impossible to see.

The 539 heads are a dime a dozen because they were also used on all 1957 single four barrel engines, as well as fuel injected engines. Your heads have date codes of D 2 7 and D 4 7 (April 2 and April 4, 1957). Date codes cannot be seen with the valve covers installed.

Getting a fuel injected block is easy. The suffix code is EL. The L was added after the fact, so just find a block with a suffix code of E (2 barrel, 3 speed, passenger car engine) and add an L. People do it all of the time.

There really isn't a cheap way to do this correctly. You will either have to locate and purchase the correct 997 heads (expensive) or locate and purchase a 57 fuel injection unit (real expensive).

In any event, it sounds like you have a good car to start with. Best of luck on your car, and keep us posted.

 

Noland Adams C1 Technical & Restoration Guide Page 166:

"The 1957 Corvette RPO 469 engine with 270 horsepower also used Carter carburetors. They were WCFB 2613-S, part number 3741089, in front -and WCFB 2614-S, part number 3741090, in the rear."

 

I am certainly not an expert, or anything close, on these carbs. I do know, however, that there are numerous errors in Noland Adams' book.

The latest version of the NCRS judging manual (5th edition) indicates that early 57 would be 2419S front and 2362S rear; later 57 would be 2626S front and 2627S rear.

Also, the NCRS manual has a statement that says "no documentation of original carburetor tags has been found to support use of 1958 carburetors 2361S and 2416S during the 1957 model year".

I am not saying which is absolutely correct, just that a discrepancy exists. In any event, the date codes on the carb tags will tell us all what these carbs came off of.