disc brakes without a conversion kit?
Thread Starter
5th Gear
Joined: Jun 2010
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disc brakes without a conversion kit?
Hi guys my name is John and I have a 63 rag top that I want to put disc brakes on but I don't want to spend 1000 bucks on a kit. Is there any other way to add disc. I can weld and I have access to a machine shop. Thanks
Team Owner
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From: CA
Last edited by 66jack; Jun 22, 2010 at 04:36 PM.
Burning Brakes
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From: Carlisle Pa.
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C2 disc brakes
John, The brakes on my 63 were all removed from a 74 including the MC and front spindles. The parts were from a wrecked car. They have been working well for about 15 years, including a number of days at the Autocross course.
Dave
Dave
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Southeast Missouri
I don't believe the drum brake cars have provisions for mounting the brake calipers. The easiest way to accomplish the conversion would be to replace the '63 front spindles and complete rear trailing arms with ''65 or later parts, I believe. But, I'd doubt you'd be able to accomplish that for less than the $1000 figure you quote.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: 50 kilometers outside Oslo Norway
I have front spindles/the hole assembly from a 1974. Just had the spindels and the rest of the parts painted and new bearings/dustshiled insralled
I have ordered a complete set of trailing arms, master cylinder/booster, calipers, rotors and brake lines from Van Steel
On a 63 if you are going for disc brakes at the rear as well i think you need to do a little welding on the frame because of the parking brake
I have ordered a complete set of trailing arms, master cylinder/booster, calipers, rotors and brake lines from Van Steel
On a 63 if you are going for disc brakes at the rear as well i think you need to do a little welding on the frame because of the parking brake
Last edited by TheSaint; Jun 22, 2010 at 06:02 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Shamong, NJ
You can do the conversion using any 65-82 front and rear suspension, not just 74. You will need the front spindles, hubs, caliper brackets, calipers, rotors and backing plates. You can reuse your upper and lower a-arms, tie rod ends and the rest of the steering. For the rear you will need complete rear trailing arms, calipers and rotors. The actual stamped steel part of the 63 arms can be modified to use with the discs, but you still need the 65 up spindles, caliper brackets, etc. so it really makes more sense to use the newer ones. 63-64 trailing arms don't have much (if any) core value as a trade in toward rebuilt 65-82 arms though. I would also use a 67-76 dual master cylinder, a 67 proportioning valve and bracket and a 67 brake line kit. This would give you a bolt in and safe set up that would be easy to repair and maintain, as all parts would be factory based.
Unfortunetly, I highly doubt that it can be done for a $1,000 or less, especially if you planned on using rebuilt, stainless sleeved calipers and rebuilt trailing arms. I know that if I was doing this swap, I wouldn't go to all the effort and then install old used calipers and rotors or trailing arms that didn't have fresh bearings.
Unfortunetly, I highly doubt that it can be done for a $1,000 or less, especially if you planned on using rebuilt, stainless sleeved calipers and rebuilt trailing arms. I know that if I was doing this swap, I wouldn't go to all the effort and then install old used calipers and rotors or trailing arms that didn't have fresh bearings.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
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From: Dallas TX
You will easily spend $1k on the rear trailing arm set up alone. I would look into the front brake conversion using 65-82 parts (I think the bigger 75(?) up spindles are cheaper).
Check out www.duntovmotors.com. They bought my 63 hubs and spindles and it was enough to where the front end conversion was not that expensive. You will still need calipers, rotors, MC and proportioning valve but these you should be able to buy at NAPA or another LAPS.
Good luck.
Check out www.duntovmotors.com. They bought my 63 hubs and spindles and it was enough to where the front end conversion was not that expensive. You will still need calipers, rotors, MC and proportioning valve but these you should be able to buy at NAPA or another LAPS.
Good luck.
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Thread Starter
5th Gear
Joined: Jun 2010
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Thanks guys for all the response. Sounds like i have more option than i thought. Gregg if you can send me a pic of what you have to my email and a price I would like to have a look see. thanks jtcrayton@ctc.net
Drifting
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From: Rochester Hills Michigan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: 50 kilometers outside Oslo Norway
I am not going to use the prop valve because as you say its only for the warning light on a disc front disc rear set up.
But as i was told you need an adjustable one if you go for disc front and drums rear
But as i was told you need an adjustable one if you go for disc front and drums rear
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Granbury Texas
If you are street driving, then go for it using the above information. However, if you are planning "hi-performance" usage.....(autocross, HPDE, or racing) then you will also need race pads (DT-70, PFC-01 or equal) AND cooling....(with stainless lines and Motul 600 fluid).
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Shamong, NJ
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,687
Likes: 3,139
From: Shamong, NJ
I recommended using it because when used with the stock 67 master cylinder mounted bracket, 67 dual master cylinder and 67 brake line set; it makes a very clean appearing, simple to install, safe and stock appearing conversion. There are aftermarket dual master cylinder conversion kits, but I like the look of the stock 67 system and it can be done for less than the kits.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,442
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From: 50 kilometers outside Oslo Norway
Its not "proposed usage" i ment a proportioning valve. sorry for not writing down the whole word
An adjustable proportioning valve if you go for discs front and drums rear
Sorry for shortening it to"prop valve" and dont write down the whole word
Thats was what i was trying to say
An adjustable proportioning valve if you go for discs front and drums rear
Sorry for shortening it to"prop valve" and dont write down the whole word
Thats was what i was trying to say
Saint there is great info here. However no one has addressed pads, so my question is...."what is your proposed usage"???
If you are street driving, then go for it using the above information. However, if you are planning "hi-performance" usage.....(autocross, HPDE, or racing) then you will also need race pads (DT-70, PFC-01 or equal) AND cooling....(with stainless lines and Motul 600 fluid).
If you are street driving, then go for it using the above information. However, if you are planning "hi-performance" usage.....(autocross, HPDE, or racing) then you will also need race pads (DT-70, PFC-01 or equal) AND cooling....(with stainless lines and Motul 600 fluid).
Last edited by TheSaint; Jun 23, 2010 at 12:39 PM.