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Now this has happened twice, brought the car out for a fast 5 minute jaunt and as I neared the 5 min mark the car would start tosputter in first gear (from a stop or very slow move), if I tried to give it a fast shot of gas, it would sputter, then clear up and it was fine for a few minutes or at higher speeds....get to a stop sign and then she would have the sputtter again at take off. Its a 327/365, idle is pretty low @ 750 (putting it up tommorow).
There is something that has come to mind, I'm fixing the issue tommorow but thought it could be causing the problem.....My engine harness is looped in behind the over flow tank and very close to the heater hoses. To the touch the wires are very hot, heck I could'nt even work on getting the wires free becasue my over flowtank was still hot even after 2 hours! Could hot wires be the cause of the engine issues.
By the way when I finally got home, I tried starting it and of course it had a hard time.....sounds like a wierd electical misfire when trying to start it, but after a few tries, she shoots right up, but then if i give it the sparatic shots of gas it sputters
When you have the fuel line disconnected, have someone crank the motor and check for fuel flow into a coffee can. Disconnect and tape the wire that goes to the + side of the coil before you try this.
If you have good flow that will eliminate fuel delivery as the culprit and point to electrical.
Now this has happened twice, brought the car out for a fast 5 minute jaunt and as I neared the 5 min mark the car would start tosputter in first gear (from a stop or very slow move), if I tried to give it a fast shot of gas, it would sputter, then clear up and it was fine for a few minutes or at higher speeds....get to a stop sign and then she would have the sputtter again at take off. Its a 327/365, idle is pretty low @ 750 (putting it up tommorow).
There is something that has come to mind, I'm fixing the issue tommorow but thought it could be causing the problem.....My engine harness is looped in behind the over flow tank and very close to the heater hoses. To the touch the wires are very hot, heck I could'nt even work on getting the wires free becasue my over flowtank was still hot even after 2 hours! Could hot wires be the cause of the engine issues.
By the way when I finally got home, I tried starting it and of course it had a hard time.....sounds like a wierd electical misfire when trying to start it, but after a few tries, she shoots right up, but then if i give it the sparatic shots of gas it sputters
Thanks guys,
The "electricity" needed in the car will be fine running through hot or cold wires. I had similar issues and before you get too carried away trouble shooting if the fuel filter swap doesn't fix it, change the condenser in the distributor. Cheap and easy to do and could behave differently when cold vs hot.
I could get the problem to happen when in the garage and while looking at the light end of a timing light I could see the spark cutting out when the problem occurred.
okay here is what I learned so far, throttle pump is good, fuel filter is good, the "eletronic cracking" i heard looks to be pinging when tryto start the engine. It will idle for ever at 750, but as soon as I start giving it the quick bursts of gas the rpm drop to 450-500 for 5 seconds and then jumps bacl to idle,m after a few more times of this, the car just stubles to dead!
Perhaps my distributer is out of whack, I will check the choke blade, but not sure where to look or how to determine if its open all the way, I think my bud did turn a **** on the pasenger side of the 2818 holley for the choke a while back, (this is from memory)...but maybe this might be the place you guys are referring to....
Choke blade is the "flapper" that is on top of carb over the primaries. When closed it cuts off air flow for richer mixture when engine is cold. "Flapping" or closing when hot could cause what you are experiencing. Choke blade should be vertical (all the way open) when engine is hot.
larry
Last edited by redred65cpe; Jun 24, 2010 at 01:39 PM.
...... I think my bud did turn a **** on the pasenger side of the 2818 holley for the choke a while back, (this is from memory)...but maybe this might be the place you guys are referring to....
thanks
Regardless, if you really do have a 365, 750 is too slow.
Yes, the "****" is what was being referred to. Sounds like a few shots too many from the accelerator pump and a partially closed choke. That would cause your problem.
well after a short run, I BURST a heater hose (one at the alternator belt!!!!)
Must have happened while re-routing the wires.....so need to get that fixed up before i can continue. Did turn the choke **** to the right a bit and it seemed to help but the car still stumbles a bit if i got on the peddle very quickly...its eems to like a slow approach.
Tried raising the idle but the whole air cleaner needs to come..PIA since it connected to the rear tube....
thanks guys...I'll keep you post after I fix this hose.
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Now that you are totally confused let me add this. If your car sits in the winter or isn't used much, the old gas might have plugged up some idle circuits in the carb, if you didn't have some kind of stabilizer run through before you put it away. Make sure the gas is fresh and add some gas stabil-izer and injecter cleaner as well, and run it for a while. I was lucky like this and in a tankfull the problem had cleared up.
Last edited by Kerrmudgeon; Jun 24, 2010 at 04:11 PM.
Reason: spelling
well boys the 64 is back to normal!!
ended up turning the distributer 1 tooth and it made all the difference...idle is about 820 or so....
!
This is what we in the diagnostics end call incomplete info.
Obviously you left out the part where you, or somebody else had the dizzy out sometime between when it last ran well, and yesterday....
"I started my car after 6 months and it ran crappy, what is wrong?" will get you a complete different set of things to look for compared to if the question was:
"I started my car after 6 months and it runs crappy, but over the winter I changed the cam, carburettor, heads and intake, what is wrong?"
Choke blade is the "flapper" that is on top of carb over the primaries. When closed it cuts off air flow for richer mixture when engine is cold. "Flapping" or closing when hot could cause what you are experiencing. Choke blade should be vertical (all the way open) when engine is hot.
larry
i agree ----this could be your prob-------symptoms would make me lean this way and an easy check.-------let us know