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The ammeter (or Battery Gauge) on my 66 was pegged whenever any draw ( courtsy light, ignition sw , ect ) . I have a 25 amp blade fuse in the wire from the solenoid and it was fried . I replaced the fuse and now when I try to connect the plug back on the ammeter there seems to be a short . If I leave the gauge disconnected everything seems to work. Is the gauge fried and is it OK to run without it connected ?
Thanks in advance for any help .
Regards Bill Purdy
The gauge is not likely fried, or it wouldnt work at all. It may not be good however. But it is more likely not wired correctly. That car didn't come with a 25 amp fuse in that location. You should check that circuit out to see just what that thing goes to and what is going on with it.
I have read before on this board about a fuse at the horn relay, can someone explain that one please.
Regards Bill Purdy
Your battery gauge has two sense wires - the 18-ga. black wire goes to the big battery cable stud on the starter solenoid, and the 18-ga. black/white wire goes to the screw terminal buss on the horn relay. Both wires change from 18-ga. to 20-ga. where they pass through the inboard bulkhead connector on the engine compartment side of the fuse block. In '66, there was no fuse protection for either circuit; both wires are "hot" at all times, key on or not.
In '67, both sense circuits got fusible link protection at the starter solenoid and at the horn relay to avoid frying the harness (or the battery gauge) in the event of a dead short in either sense circuit. On a '66, you'd want to add a 24-ga. fusible link wire (or a 1 or 2-amp inline fuse) at each of those two connections.
note that putting protection at the starting points (relay and solenoid) protects the entire circuit, while putting one fuse on a meter terminal protects only the meter.