Sequence to Remove C2 Body?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
Sequence to Remove C2 Body?
Our new Project 396 is finally home and on the rack. Pulled a rear wheel and inspected the brakes, tire clearances, and the bottom of the car. Looks prretty whole, no mods, etc. It looks like the paint on the rear control arms was ashault-based "undercoat" or something. Anyway, pretty dirty, surface rust, etc.
Anyway, it appears the best way to rebuild this car is to romove the body. In looking it the underside, it is not obvious as to where the unbolt spots are located. I should maybe read my "Corvette restoration Guide" in more detail, but if anyone can detail or summarize the removal process, it would be appreciated.
The one book talked about all the shims the factory uses and how important they are to maintain the body straightness integrity. It also said if he were to do it over, the body and paint work would be done before the body/frame separation. Any paractical advise there?
I have a 4 post lift, can that be utilized in the process?
Anyway, it appears the best way to rebuild this car is to romove the body. In looking it the underside, it is not obvious as to where the unbolt spots are located. I should maybe read my "Corvette restoration Guide" in more detail, but if anyone can detail or summarize the removal process, it would be appreciated.
The one book talked about all the shims the factory uses and how important they are to maintain the body straightness integrity. It also said if he were to do it over, the body and paint work would be done before the body/frame separation. Any paractical advise there?
I have a 4 post lift, can that be utilized in the process?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 7,484
Likes: 457
From: POTSDAM NY/Punta Gorda FL
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,629
Likes: 14
From: MA
Check the FAQs at the top of the forum. IIRC there's a link to a checklist. If the 4 post lift goes high enough you probably can attach the straps to it and lift off the body. If you are going to keep the body separate from the chassis not hanging from the lift you may want to check out a body dolly. Your assembly manual has the body mount points documented.
All this stuff and various issues that occur and their solutions are in existing threads. The body mount bolts are usually the biggest issue if they're rusted. Air tools come in handy!
larry
All this stuff and various issues that occur and their solutions are in existing threads. The body mount bolts are usually the biggest issue if they're rusted. Air tools come in handy!
larry
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
Body removal
MID YEAR BODY REMOVAL AND REINSTALLATION
Body Removal Checklist
1. Battery - Disconnect only
2. Steering Column - Disconnect and remove
3. Master Cylinder - Disconnect lines only
4. Clutch Rod pedal - Disconnect wire clip only
5. Back up light plug - Disconnect only
6. Acceleration rod and ground straps - Disconnect only
7. Oil pressure line, big and small block - Disconnect only
8. Engine Wires:
Temperature sending unit - Disconnect only
Coil wires + and - - Disconnect only
Brake warning wire, 1967 only - Disconnect only
Alternator wires - Disconnect only
9. Distributor Tachometer Drive Unit - Disconnect only
10. A-Frame dust covers - Remove from under A-arm
11. Hood - Remove from car
12. Shifter ball and T-Handle - Remove
13. Side pipe covers or rocker moldings - Remove
14. Front bumpers and braces - Remove
15. Starter wires - Disconnect and remove
16. Splash shields, large and small - Remove
17. License plate trim - Remove
18. Rear exhaust panel - Remove
19. Gas tank sending unit wires - Disconnect and remove
20. Antenna and ground strap - Disconnect and remove
21. Seat belt anchors, left, right and center - Disconnect and remove
22. Emergency brake cable - Disconnect
23. Body mount, rear access door covers - Remove
24. Ground strap, left front body mount - Remove
25. Radiator core support bolts, lower only - Remove
26. All body mounts - Remove
'63-'64 coupe - 10 bolts
'63-'64 roadster - 12 bolts
'65-'67 coupe - 8 bolts
'65-'67 roadster - 10 bolts
Battery
Disconnect battery cables at battery location
Steering Column at Gear Sector
Before removing the flexible or pot joint coupling, the mast jacket must be lowered and pulled rearward far enough to permit coupling removal. Do not allow the steering column to hang down from the dash panel or distortion to the column will result. When the instrument panel mounting bracket is removed, be sure to support the column. Remove the bolt from the coupling clamp. This is a special bolt and will require a 12-point socket or box wrench. Tap the coupling with a soft hammer to remove it from the wormshaft. The coupling is spliced to the wormshaft.
Master Cylinder - Lines Only
Wipe master cylinder and lines clean with a cloth. Place dry cloths below cylinder area to absorb any fluid spillage. Disconnect hydraulic lines at cylinder. Cover line ends with clean, lint-free cloth to prevent foreign matter from entering system.
Clutch Rod Wire Clip
Clutch rod wire clip is located directly below the master cylinder where clutch pedal rod intersects with clutch cross shaft. Remove by inserting screwdriver.
Back-up Light Plug
Back-up light plug is located behind the distributor. Caution should be taken during the removal process as wires could be pulled from their sockets. Remove by pulling connector apart.
Accelerator Rod and Ground Strap
Disconnect accelerator rod at carburetor throttle lever by removing throttle spring of cotter pin. Remove ground strap by removing hex head bolt located on the main accelerator base lever near firewall.
Oil Pressure Line Removal - Small and Big Block
Small block removal:
Oil pressure line is located to the right rear of the distributor, looking toward the front of the car. Remove by using a 7/16" open-end wrench. Care should be taken to avoid bending the copper line.
Big block removal:
Oil pressure line is located on the driver's side near the oil filter. Removal is same as for small block.
Top Engine Wires - Including Temperature Sending Unit
The following wires are located on the top half of engine or there by. Removal should be as follows:
A. Coil wires at coil, + and -, remove 1/4" nuts
B. Water sending unit, unplug connector
C. Alternator wires, remove 7/16" nut, unplug connector
Coil Wires - Positive and Negative
Coil wire removal is same as above.
Brake Warning Wire at Proportioning Valve - '67 Only
Brake warning wire is located under proportioning valve below master cylinder. Remove by pulling plug downward.
Alternator Wires
Alternator wire removal same as above.
A-Frame Dust Covers Tucked in Upper A-Arms
Remove A-frame dust covers by pulling up and out of A-arms.
Air Cleaner on Fuel Injection
Remove large 4-inch clamp attaching air cleaner to injection unit. Remove the four metal screws attaching the (S) tube or metal duct from the radiator support. Remove screws that attach the air cleaner body to the inner fender well, these screws bolt through the fender well and are accessible in the left wheel well opening.
Hood, Radiator and Shroud
A. Hood - Removal of hood should be at hood latches located toward the front of the car. Remove bolts, which are located on the hood itself. After removal, complete latch assembly should still be attached to the inner fender wheel skirt.
B. Radiator - Remove radiator inlet and outlet hoses at radiator. Remove transmission cooler lines, if so equipped. Remove shroud to radiator support screws. Rest shroud on engine fan. Remove radiator upper support bracket screws and carefully lift radiator from vehicle. If equipped with air conditioning: Remove the bolts holding the receiver dehydrator bottle and let it rest in place. Back out the left front hinge to body bolt. Remove radiator upper support bolts (2 each side) and loosen the lower bolts (1 each side) tilt the radiator support rearward and carefully remove the radiator.
Shifter Ball and T-Handle
Unscrew shifter ball counter clockwise from shifter rod. Once shifter ball is removed, lift T-handle from shifter rod. Be careful not to lose shifter ball and spring and T-handle nylon washers.
Sidepipe Covers or Rocker Moldings
A. Sidepipe Covers - Remove 2 phillips head screws and speed nuts fore and aft of rocker moldings. Molding can now be removed by lifting it off its retainer. The sidepipe shield is attached with phillips head screws which can be removed at this time. The shield is also attached inside each front fender well and just ahead of the rear fender well. Removal of these screws will now allow the shield to be fully removed. The sidepipe muffler need not be removed.
B. Rocker Moldings - Remove 2 phillips head screws and speed nuts fore and aft of rocker molding. Remove attaching screws on the bottom of the molding. Lift the molding out at the bottom and up off the retainer.
Front Bumpers and Braces
Bumpers may be removed, including braces, as a complete assembly.
A. Remove bolts and washers connecting lower braces (2) to frame.
B. Remove bolts and washers connecting small braces located in fender well (1 each side).
C. Remove bolts and washers connecting main support braces to frame rails (1 each side).
D. Remove complete bumper assembly by pulling forward until remaining braces are clear from body.
Starter Wires at Starter
There are three wires connected at the starter. Location of these is directly connected to the solenoid. These wires are held in place by a 9/16" nut and 5/16" nut. Removal of these nuts will allow wires to hang free. There is one additional wire connected at the base of the starter (ground). By removing the outboard starter support bolt, this wire will hang free.
Splash Shields - Large and Small
Splash Shield - Large: These under body splash shields are located under the driver's and passenger side foot wells. There are a total of five screws which hold these items in place. Removal of these screws will allow splash shields to be removed.
Splash Shield - Small: These body splash shields are located directly below each fender vent. They are attached by four bolts. Two bolts are located outside the front fender wells. The other two are located under the fender vent body panel itself. Removal of these bolts will allow shield removal.
License Plate Trim
License plate trim consists of four screws plus two screws holding the license plate. Remove license plate first. Remove license plate trim by removing two screws located at upper most top and two screws located at either side of trim plate, lower half.
Emergency Brake Cable Disconnect
A. Emergency brake cable on '63-'66 Corvettes disconnects at the pivot assembly under the car at the transmission crossmember. This assembly is located on the driver's side of the vehicle. Removal of the adjusting nuts allows the cable to be disconnected.
B. Emergency brake cable on '67 Corvettes disconnect at the "Y" intersection under the car at the rear crossmember. Also remove the spring connecting the cable end to the frame. Remove white pulley just rear of the transmission crossmember to allow the cable to be free.
Body Removal Checklist
1. Battery - Disconnect only
2. Steering Column - Disconnect and remove
3. Master Cylinder - Disconnect lines only
4. Clutch Rod pedal - Disconnect wire clip only
5. Back up light plug - Disconnect only
6. Acceleration rod and ground straps - Disconnect only
7. Oil pressure line, big and small block - Disconnect only
8. Engine Wires:
Temperature sending unit - Disconnect only
Coil wires + and - - Disconnect only
Brake warning wire, 1967 only - Disconnect only
Alternator wires - Disconnect only
9. Distributor Tachometer Drive Unit - Disconnect only
10. A-Frame dust covers - Remove from under A-arm
11. Hood - Remove from car
12. Shifter ball and T-Handle - Remove
13. Side pipe covers or rocker moldings - Remove
14. Front bumpers and braces - Remove
15. Starter wires - Disconnect and remove
16. Splash shields, large and small - Remove
17. License plate trim - Remove
18. Rear exhaust panel - Remove
19. Gas tank sending unit wires - Disconnect and remove
20. Antenna and ground strap - Disconnect and remove
21. Seat belt anchors, left, right and center - Disconnect and remove
22. Emergency brake cable - Disconnect
23. Body mount, rear access door covers - Remove
24. Ground strap, left front body mount - Remove
25. Radiator core support bolts, lower only - Remove
26. All body mounts - Remove
'63-'64 coupe - 10 bolts
'63-'64 roadster - 12 bolts
'65-'67 coupe - 8 bolts
'65-'67 roadster - 10 bolts
Battery
Disconnect battery cables at battery location
Steering Column at Gear Sector
Before removing the flexible or pot joint coupling, the mast jacket must be lowered and pulled rearward far enough to permit coupling removal. Do not allow the steering column to hang down from the dash panel or distortion to the column will result. When the instrument panel mounting bracket is removed, be sure to support the column. Remove the bolt from the coupling clamp. This is a special bolt and will require a 12-point socket or box wrench. Tap the coupling with a soft hammer to remove it from the wormshaft. The coupling is spliced to the wormshaft.
Master Cylinder - Lines Only
Wipe master cylinder and lines clean with a cloth. Place dry cloths below cylinder area to absorb any fluid spillage. Disconnect hydraulic lines at cylinder. Cover line ends with clean, lint-free cloth to prevent foreign matter from entering system.
Clutch Rod Wire Clip
Clutch rod wire clip is located directly below the master cylinder where clutch pedal rod intersects with clutch cross shaft. Remove by inserting screwdriver.
Back-up Light Plug
Back-up light plug is located behind the distributor. Caution should be taken during the removal process as wires could be pulled from their sockets. Remove by pulling connector apart.
Accelerator Rod and Ground Strap
Disconnect accelerator rod at carburetor throttle lever by removing throttle spring of cotter pin. Remove ground strap by removing hex head bolt located on the main accelerator base lever near firewall.
Oil Pressure Line Removal - Small and Big Block
Small block removal:
Oil pressure line is located to the right rear of the distributor, looking toward the front of the car. Remove by using a 7/16" open-end wrench. Care should be taken to avoid bending the copper line.
Big block removal:
Oil pressure line is located on the driver's side near the oil filter. Removal is same as for small block.
Top Engine Wires - Including Temperature Sending Unit
The following wires are located on the top half of engine or there by. Removal should be as follows:
A. Coil wires at coil, + and -, remove 1/4" nuts
B. Water sending unit, unplug connector
C. Alternator wires, remove 7/16" nut, unplug connector
Coil Wires - Positive and Negative
Coil wire removal is same as above.
Brake Warning Wire at Proportioning Valve - '67 Only
Brake warning wire is located under proportioning valve below master cylinder. Remove by pulling plug downward.
Alternator Wires
Alternator wire removal same as above.
A-Frame Dust Covers Tucked in Upper A-Arms
Remove A-frame dust covers by pulling up and out of A-arms.
Air Cleaner on Fuel Injection
Remove large 4-inch clamp attaching air cleaner to injection unit. Remove the four metal screws attaching the (S) tube or metal duct from the radiator support. Remove screws that attach the air cleaner body to the inner fender well, these screws bolt through the fender well and are accessible in the left wheel well opening.
Hood, Radiator and Shroud
A. Hood - Removal of hood should be at hood latches located toward the front of the car. Remove bolts, which are located on the hood itself. After removal, complete latch assembly should still be attached to the inner fender wheel skirt.
B. Radiator - Remove radiator inlet and outlet hoses at radiator. Remove transmission cooler lines, if so equipped. Remove shroud to radiator support screws. Rest shroud on engine fan. Remove radiator upper support bracket screws and carefully lift radiator from vehicle. If equipped with air conditioning: Remove the bolts holding the receiver dehydrator bottle and let it rest in place. Back out the left front hinge to body bolt. Remove radiator upper support bolts (2 each side) and loosen the lower bolts (1 each side) tilt the radiator support rearward and carefully remove the radiator.
Shifter Ball and T-Handle
Unscrew shifter ball counter clockwise from shifter rod. Once shifter ball is removed, lift T-handle from shifter rod. Be careful not to lose shifter ball and spring and T-handle nylon washers.
Sidepipe Covers or Rocker Moldings
A. Sidepipe Covers - Remove 2 phillips head screws and speed nuts fore and aft of rocker moldings. Molding can now be removed by lifting it off its retainer. The sidepipe shield is attached with phillips head screws which can be removed at this time. The shield is also attached inside each front fender well and just ahead of the rear fender well. Removal of these screws will now allow the shield to be fully removed. The sidepipe muffler need not be removed.
B. Rocker Moldings - Remove 2 phillips head screws and speed nuts fore and aft of rocker molding. Remove attaching screws on the bottom of the molding. Lift the molding out at the bottom and up off the retainer.
Front Bumpers and Braces
Bumpers may be removed, including braces, as a complete assembly.
A. Remove bolts and washers connecting lower braces (2) to frame.
B. Remove bolts and washers connecting small braces located in fender well (1 each side).
C. Remove bolts and washers connecting main support braces to frame rails (1 each side).
D. Remove complete bumper assembly by pulling forward until remaining braces are clear from body.
Starter Wires at Starter
There are three wires connected at the starter. Location of these is directly connected to the solenoid. These wires are held in place by a 9/16" nut and 5/16" nut. Removal of these nuts will allow wires to hang free. There is one additional wire connected at the base of the starter (ground). By removing the outboard starter support bolt, this wire will hang free.
Splash Shields - Large and Small
Splash Shield - Large: These under body splash shields are located under the driver's and passenger side foot wells. There are a total of five screws which hold these items in place. Removal of these screws will allow splash shields to be removed.
Splash Shield - Small: These body splash shields are located directly below each fender vent. They are attached by four bolts. Two bolts are located outside the front fender wells. The other two are located under the fender vent body panel itself. Removal of these bolts will allow shield removal.
License Plate Trim
License plate trim consists of four screws plus two screws holding the license plate. Remove license plate first. Remove license plate trim by removing two screws located at upper most top and two screws located at either side of trim plate, lower half.
Emergency Brake Cable Disconnect
A. Emergency brake cable on '63-'66 Corvettes disconnects at the pivot assembly under the car at the transmission crossmember. This assembly is located on the driver's side of the vehicle. Removal of the adjusting nuts allows the cable to be disconnected.
B. Emergency brake cable on '67 Corvettes disconnect at the "Y" intersection under the car at the rear crossmember. Also remove the spring connecting the cable end to the frame. Remove white pulley just rear of the transmission crossmember to allow the cable to be free.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 10
From: Dallas TX
Looks like a complete list. Make sure you remove ALL of the rear bumper braces. There are two inboard braces between the frame and the body that the rear bumper attaches two that I missed. I ended up cracking the body.
This is a long and expensive road to travel down. I would make 100% sure you want to go down it before you start taking the body off. Seems like you bought this car and it hasnt been run for a while. The body doesnt look too bad from pics. I would seriously consider going through the brake and suspension with the body on the car....you can get the motor running and get it on the road for a year or two THEN take the body off.
I 've been down this path and unless you (a) have a nice size shop (b) retired (c) lots of discretionary cash....I wouldnt do it.
If you have access to a welder, I would attempt to weld a body dolly based on the frame specs from the AIM--much sturdier than wood. If you go the wood dolly route (plans are on the forum somewhere) I would look into increasing the vertical height of the dolly. The wood dolly puts the body at about standard height but it is impossible to get under.
Good luck. This forum is a great source of info.
This is a long and expensive road to travel down. I would make 100% sure you want to go down it before you start taking the body off. Seems like you bought this car and it hasnt been run for a while. The body doesnt look too bad from pics. I would seriously consider going through the brake and suspension with the body on the car....you can get the motor running and get it on the road for a year or two THEN take the body off.
I 've been down this path and unless you (a) have a nice size shop (b) retired (c) lots of discretionary cash....I wouldnt do it.
If you have access to a welder, I would attempt to weld a body dolly based on the frame specs from the AIM--much sturdier than wood. If you go the wood dolly route (plans are on the forum somewhere) I would look into increasing the vertical height of the dolly. The wood dolly puts the body at about standard height but it is impossible to get under.
Good luck. This forum is a great source of info.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
Looks like a complete list. Make sure you remove ALL of the rear bumper braces. There are two inboard braces between the frame and the body that the rear bumper attaches two that I missed. I ended up cracking the body.
This is a long and expensive road to travel down. I would make 100% sure you want to go down it before you start taking the body off. Seems like you bought this car and it hasnt been run for a while. The body doesnt look too bad from pics. I would seriously consider going through the brake and suspension with the body on the car....you can get the motor running and get it on the road for a year or two THEN take the body off.
I 've been down this path and unless you (a) have a nice size shop (b) retired (c) lots of discretionary cash....I wouldnt do it.
If you have access to a welder, I would attempt to weld a body dolly based on the frame specs from the AIM--much sturdier than wood. If you go the wood dolly route (plans are on the forum somewhere) I would look into increasing the vertical height of the dolly. The wood dolly puts the body at about standard height but it is impossible to get under.
Good luck. This forum is a great source of info.
This is a long and expensive road to travel down. I would make 100% sure you want to go down it before you start taking the body off. Seems like you bought this car and it hasnt been run for a while. The body doesnt look too bad from pics. I would seriously consider going through the brake and suspension with the body on the car....you can get the motor running and get it on the road for a year or two THEN take the body off.
I 've been down this path and unless you (a) have a nice size shop (b) retired (c) lots of discretionary cash....I wouldnt do it.
If you have access to a welder, I would attempt to weld a body dolly based on the frame specs from the AIM--much sturdier than wood. If you go the wood dolly route (plans are on the forum somewhere) I would look into increasing the vertical height of the dolly. The wood dolly puts the body at about standard height but it is impossible to get under.
Good luck. This forum is a great source of info.
So maybe time to step back and consider what can be done with the wheels off!
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,000
Likes: 659
From: Puget Sound
You're welcome. There are several of us here that have done body-off restorations. To me, it's the only way to get the results I want. Jump in with both feet and don't look back. If you get stuck, I'm here to help. Maybe a road trip to Utah is in my future.
I had a guy fly me to L.A. to help him with his Cobra when he got stuck. 3 days later he was driving it with a big grin.Jim
