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If your engine runs hot you may want to check the archives for help, there is lots of help there. Be sure your gauge is correct , it is common for them to read wrong . If your engine truly is overheating you need to do more than change the coolant . I have a 66 bb and have no cooling problems .
Bill Purdy
I have used Evans coolant in my 60 vette for about 5 years with no problems whatever, runs between 160 and 180 degrees all the time even in 100 degree weather and long parades.
Same as Zerex G-05.....just a different logo on the container. Ford probably increased the $$ also.
Larry
The word of mouth I've heard is that unlike G-05, the Evans coolant is not mixed with water, so it will not boil at normal ranges of engine temperatures. The downside is that it does not transfer heat as well as liquid water based coolant. The marketing claim is that it prevents micro-boiling within the engine to improve heat transfer at the hottest points within the engine, but there is scant science to support that. One fellow who was once burned by steam from a hot engine converted to Evans just so he could run his engine with little or no pressure in the cooling system. Conventional coolant requires some amount of pressure within the system to prevent boiling at normal operating temperatures.
This stuff sounds like a sure recipe for disaster.
If I have an engine that is running hot, the LAST thing I want to do is reduce the efficiency of the thermal transfer fluid that is removing heat from the system.
NOTHING is more efficient than pure H20.
Antifreeze just increases the boiling point, lowers the freezing point and adds corrosion inhibitors. It does ALSO REDUCES the effectiveness of the cooling system. The higher your percentage of antifreeze (usually glycol) the less efficient your heat transfer will be.
This stuff may give you a lower temp reading, but only because it's not transfering as much heat from the metal.
Since I live in the desert with zero chance of the coolant freezing in the winter I use no antifreeze whatsoever and just add corrosion inhibitor.
Instead of using "snake oil" as John so aptly put it, I'd find out why I'm running hot.
Just IMHO,
While I don't think Evans is snake oil, I don't think it will help your problem.
Evans is great in that it requires no pressure to raise it's boiling point, which makes all components of the cooling system last longer. And if I remember right, it's specific heat is very close to a 50/50 glycol/H20 mixture, but neither are close to straight H20.
DT, Evans does not have the issues of nucleate boiling that traditional glycol/H20 can. For hot engines, Evans actually tends to work better.
Evans is great in that it requires no pressure to raise it's boiling point, which makes all components of the cooling system last longer.
If I remember all the posts on this forum correctly, the reason a HOAT antifreeze is recommended is to prevent chemical interaction between the aluminum rads and the brass heater core???
if I recall ...some said..that plain water with an anti corrosive in it for aluminum radiators was the best to use.....and from yrs of experience here......if JOHN Z says something ...you can take it to the bank...just my opinion...I'm old so I have a lot of them....
If I remember all the posts on this forum correctly, the reason a HOAT antifreeze is recommended is to prevent chemical interaction between the aluminum rads and the brass heater core???
That is what anitcorrosive additive does. You can buy it as a separate additive without the glycol. I use the Prestone version.
Do you know which thermostat you have? I though I had a 180* when in fact I had a 195*, that "I" put in YEARS ago because that's what many sources state is OEM. I swapped it out and dropped, yep, about 15* !!!