Muncie Shift Lever(s) Question
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Muncie Shift Lever(s) Question
Hi Guys -Can someone tell me how the 2 shifter levers should be correctly positioned on the 67 muncie 4 speed? The levers themselves can be put on either way - 2 ways and I need to know or see a picture of how they should be mounted to the tranny....For the 1st/2nd lever and the 3rd/4th lever....
I ask cause from the bolt hole on the tranny each lever has a "indent" a bend either inwards then up or if mounted the other way a "outdent" to the trans tunnel.....Can they be put on in the wrong position? Thanks!
I ask cause from the bolt hole on the tranny each lever has a "indent" a bend either inwards then up or if mounted the other way a "outdent" to the trans tunnel.....Can they be put on in the wrong position? Thanks!
#2
Team Owner
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The levers are offset inboard, towards the transmission case; see photo below.
Edit: The setup in the display photo is incorrect - should have caught it earlier. The rear (1-2) lever offset should be inboard, towards the transmission, and the front (3-4) lever offset should be outboard, towards the tunnel wall, so the linkage rods don't interfere with each other. The 1-2 and 3-4 levers are different part numbers.
Edit: The setup in the display photo is incorrect - should have caught it earlier. The rear (1-2) lever offset should be inboard, towards the transmission, and the front (3-4) lever offset should be outboard, towards the tunnel wall, so the linkage rods don't interfere with each other. The 1-2 and 3-4 levers are different part numbers.
Last edited by JohnZ; 08-13-2010 at 12:41 PM.
#4
Safety Car
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Hmmm, the drawings in the '66 service manual [Four Speed Transmission (Muncie) pgs 7-16 and 7-17, Figs. 1M and 2M] clearly show the 3-4 lever (the forwardmost one) installed as an "outie".
The '66 AIM - UPC M20, M21, M22 / A1, A2, and A3 also appear to support this.
Are '67s different? Or, are the '66 Service Manual and AIM incorrect?
The '66 AIM - UPC M20, M21, M22 / A1, A2, and A3 also appear to support this.
Are '67s different? Or, are the '66 Service Manual and AIM incorrect?
#5
Burning Brakes
FWIW, my 65 M-20 the front two levers are both "innies".
EDIT: If the forward most one was mounted "outie" the lever/linkage would hit the transmission tunnel. It's real close in there.
Sounds like they changed or something in 66 maybe??
EDIT: If the forward most one was mounted "outie" the lever/linkage would hit the transmission tunnel. It's real close in there.
Sounds like they changed or something in 66 maybe??
Last edited by Larry N. Johnson; 08-13-2010 at 05:01 PM.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hmmm, the drawings in the '66 service manual [Four Speed Transmission (Muncie) pgs 7-16 and 7-17, Figs. 1M and 2M] clearly show the 3-4 lever (the forwardmost one) installed as an "outie".
The '66 AIM - UPC M20, M21, M22 / A1, A2, and A3 also appear to support this.
Are '67s different? Or, are the '66 Service Manual and AIM incorrect?
The '66 AIM - UPC M20, M21, M22 / A1, A2, and A3 also appear to support this.
Are '67s different? Or, are the '66 Service Manual and AIM incorrect?
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Do you have a picture of these levers alone taken to see what they are supposed to look like? Are they both the same? for 1/2 and 3/4?
I ask because I have been thinking about installing the shift rods back to the long throw position , and up there at the end of the lever they look really close to the tunnel and I dont think Id be able to install the swivel end on the 3/4 gear lever end (long throw hole).
Last edited by babbah; 08-12-2010 at 05:26 PM.
#11
Le Mans Master
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Not to highjack the thread can someone explain to me how it should shift on the bench...
Also, I do not think the front of the spine should leak, correct? I can see some gear oil leaking around the front of the gear. Also, the small rear lever is it suppose to lock the yoke and the front spine when it is engaged?
I bought a M21 and trying to find out what I might have to do before trying to install the transmission. I know I am not going with a BW T10
Also, I do not think the front of the spine should leak, correct? I can see some gear oil leaking around the front of the gear. Also, the small rear lever is it suppose to lock the yoke and the front spine when it is engaged?
I bought a M21 and trying to find out what I might have to do before trying to install the transmission. I know I am not going with a BW T10
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I just was under mine and the forward lever is bent to the left from where it bolts to the tranny shifter fork (3rd/4th gear lever). The 1st 2nd lever is a innie and is straight vertically , not bent. So my question is are both levers supposed to be the same are are the different so the linkages don't hit each other - Going Nuts here!
#13
Le Mans Master
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Here is a picture of the linkage on my setup... I am wondering why it will not shift through any of the gears. I am only trying to make sure I know how it is suppose to be setup to work right. Maybe I do not have the correct shifter for the transmission????
I noticed some leaks coming from the spine:
I noticed some leaks coming from the spine:
#15
Le Mans Master
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It is for reverse. Reverse gear is located in the tail. You need to remove your input retainer to ascertain the reason for the leak. Either your gasket is bad or you have blocked oil passage which is located just beneath your input bearing (in the case). You will see it when you remove the retainer.
#16
Le Mans Master
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It is for reverse. Reverse gear is located in the tail. You need to remove your input retainer to ascertain the reason for the leak. Either your gasket is bad or you have blocked oil passage which is located just beneath your input bearing (in the case). You will see it when you remove the retainer.
It should spin only backwards in reverse? Can this spin manually or should it lock up the output (yoke end) and input shaft when it is flipped?
#17
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Hmmm, the drawings in the '66 service manual [Four Speed Transmission (Muncie) pgs 7-16 and 7-17, Figs. 1M and 2M] clearly show the 3-4 lever (the forwardmost one) installed as an "outie".
The '66 AIM - UPC M20, M21, M22 / A1, A2, and A3 also appear to support this.
Are '67s different? Or, are the '66 Service Manual and AIM incorrect?
The '66 AIM - UPC M20, M21, M22 / A1, A2, and A3 also appear to support this.
Are '67s different? Or, are the '66 Service Manual and AIM incorrect?
#18
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If both the input and output shaft are locked, you have reverse engaged and one of the forward gears as well (the shifter prevents this from occurring if all the linkage is connected and properly adjusted).
There should not be any gear lube showing on the splines of the input shaft, unless the transmission has been standing on its nose. Pull the bearing retainer off and make sure the drain channel is clear on its back side, and the drainback hole it aligns with in the front of the case is open.
#20
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Johns explanation on his edit above answers my question about the shift levers on a 67 4 sp muncie -
1. 1st/2nd lever is an "innie"
2. 3rd/4th lever is an "outie"
Mystery solved. Im reassembling mine now, maybe it will finally it will work right and not jam in 1st anymore. Im also going back to the long throws are pictured above in Johns Edit.
To get to the shifter "guage slot" and rods while trans in mounted in the car you must remove the BU switch and the exhaust hanger above the tranny mount. Then there is much room to "finesse" the shifter.
1. 1st/2nd lever is an "innie"
2. 3rd/4th lever is an "outie"
Mystery solved. Im reassembling mine now, maybe it will finally it will work right and not jam in 1st anymore. Im also going back to the long throws are pictured above in Johns Edit.
To get to the shifter "guage slot" and rods while trans in mounted in the car you must remove the BU switch and the exhaust hanger above the tranny mount. Then there is much room to "finesse" the shifter.
Last edited by babbah; 08-13-2010 at 02:55 PM.