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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 04:29 PM
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Default 396 Vette

Is there any way, other than the engine block stamping, to tell if a '65 was an original 396 car? Engine was replaced some time ago and no prior history of car in paper form.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by nfran
Is there any way, other than the engine block stamping, to tell if a '65 was an original 396 car? Engine was replaced some time ago and no prior history of car in paper form.
Nick:

There are a number of things to look for that will identify an original 1965 396 car. Many of these differences have been discussed before and may be in the archives or the FAQ at the beginning of the C2 Forum Page. We went through this a few months back for another forum member. Also, an NCRS Judging Manual will list these differences.

Is this a car you are trying to buy?? If you can't find this information and really need it, let us know and we can re-post it for you here.

I would start with providing all the info listed on the VIN Tag and TRIM Tag. We can then go from there.

Larry
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 05:06 PM
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Thanks Larry for the help. I'm considering buying this car but won't see it until this weekend so I have no data as of present. I will come back to this page probably with more questions than I care to think about.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 05:24 PM
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Speaking of the VIN tag, if the serial no. is for a build date before Feb. 1965, it's probably not an original 396. The Mk. IV engine was released in Feb. 1965.

See if you can find the Feb. '65 issue of Hot Rod magazine at your local library. The new 396 was the front page article. "The high performance engine Chevy fans have been waiting for is here!"
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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Avispa, that definitely will help. Thanks appreciate the info, I'll get that this weekend.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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A couple of things to look for:

- The battery is located on the left side (same as A/C cars) and the access panel is held on with 7 bolts (I think)
- Oil Pressure gauge should be 0-80 psi
- Tach has a redline of 6500
- Differential uses saddle caps as opposed to u-bolts to hold the u-joints in place - If you can, check number on the diff housing as the number (stamped) will tell you more
- There should be a rear sway bar mounted
- Front sway bar is larger diameter
- Front coil spring is .600" wire diameter (assuming they've never been changed) and 17" free height (you won't be able to check that).
- Block should be casting number 3855692
- Heads should be 208 castings
- Intake should be 3866963
- Exhaust Manifolds should be 3856301/3856302


For reference, the serial number on my '65 396 coupe was 113934 and was built late March and yes, it was an early build.

Do you have Nolands book? If not, get it as it is worth its' weight in gold the information that is there.

Hope this helps.....


Eric
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 09:06 PM
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Eric,
This is great info. Unfortunately, the original 396 blew up a ways back but has a rebuilt 396 now. I'm printing this out and taking it along with me to hopefully verify the car, just to see if it was, indeed, a big blocker to start with! Excellent!

Last edited by nfran; Aug 27, 2010 at 09:08 PM. Reason: more info
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 10:58 PM
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Default 65 396

I had the same deal in June-July. Had a happy ending.

See ID a 65 396 car

Here are a couple more details:
- Front sway bar measures 15/16"
- Rear sway bar 7/16"
- Rear spring 7-leaf

Good luck!

Last edited by Larry N. Johnson; Oct 24, 2010 at 11:45 AM. Reason: spelling fix
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by nfran
Is there any way, other than the engine block stamping, to tell if a '65 was an original 396 car? Engine was replaced some time ago and no prior history of car in paper form.
Let us know the results please
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 01:43 PM
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Good info Larry. That link has a lot of good info also.
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 10:50 AM
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Default 396 id

Originally Posted by Larry N. Johnson
I had the same dea in June-July. Had a happy ending.

See ID a 65 396 car

Here are a couple more details:
- Front sway bar measures 15/16"
- Rear sway bar 7/16"
- Rear spring 7-leaf

Good luck!
I think the 7 leaf and 15/16 were f-40 susp specs, reg b.b. had 7/8 bar and 9 leaf springs.To id. real cars look for correct placing of battery cable clips that are unique to the 396 cars.Also when the V.reg. was moved to driver sideG.M. had a rather sloppy way to fill the holes on outer front of rt. side of inner fender i have close up pics .
Also the clutch rod, where it connects to clutch swing pedal is app.1/2 inch from where s.b. are connected seems to be different clutch swing arm I compared one of mine to a s.b. 65 i was restoring at the same time. There is a differance in the arms. Thanks 66racer
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 11:02 AM
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check the fuel line from the tank to the pump, the bb is longer and has a bend to fit the rubber supply line
also the throttle linkage arm is bent differently on the 65 bb
look for a battery cable bracket just below the heater core which is on the 66 but i don't know about the 65....
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 66racer
I think the 7 leaf and 15/16 were f-40 susp specs, reg b.b. had 7/8 bar and 9 leaf springs.To id. real cars look for correct placing of battery cable clips that are unique to the 396 cars.Also when the V.reg. was moved to driver sideG.M. had a rather sloppy way to fill the holes on outer front of rt. side of inner fender i have close up pics .
Also the clutch rod, where it connects to clutch swing pedal is app.1/2 inch from where s.b. are connected seems to be different clutch swing arm I compared one of mine to a s.b. 65 i was restoring at the same time. There is a differance in the arms. Thanks 66racer
Elmer,

Thanks for the clarification; I did not know that. I was thinking (danger!) that the F40 suspension was a mandatory 396 option, i.e., heavier springs for the additional weight.

LNJ
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 66racer
I think the 7 leaf and 15/16 were f-40 susp specs, reg b.b. had 7/8 bar and 9 leaf springs.To id. real cars look for correct placing of battery cable clips that are unique to the 396 cars.Also when the V.reg. was moved to driver sideG.M. had a rather sloppy way to fill the holes on outer front of rt. side of inner fender i have close up pics .
Also the clutch rod, where it connects to clutch swing pedal is app.1/2 inch from where s.b. are connected seems to be different clutch swing arm I compared one of mine to a s.b. 65 i was restoring at the same time. There is a differance in the arms. Thanks 66racer
I would like to see your pic's of the filled voltage regulator holes, as my car has this done to it and I was thinking it was not a very good fill job. And I have what appears to be a battery cable clips on the firewall under the steering column area and I think one in behind the distributor area, I will have to take another look at my car for the exact location of the clips.

Dave
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DSR
I would like to see your pic's of the filled voltage regulator holes, as my car has this done to it and I was thinking it was not a very good fill job. And I have what appears to be a battery cable clips on the firewall under the steering column area and I think one in behind the distributor area, I will have to take another look at my car for the exact location of the clips.

Dave
Dave,

Is your 65 a 396 car? We are making a list so we can exchange info, parts, etc.
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:03 AM
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I'd like to see the pics 66racer has. I never knew that and will check my car.

Bill
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Larry N. Johnson
Dave,

Is your 65 a 396 car? We are making a list so we can exchange info, parts, etc.
Sorry I didn't mean to get off topic,

I don't think it is , built too early Nov-7-64. but my car does have the filled volt-reg. holes in the lower front area of the passager fender. This is a non-air car that someone added aftermarket air, so maybe that person filled the holes and added the cable clips? and I checked last night 7 cable clips across the firewall. Most of the cable clips have solid type pop rivets and a couple have the pop rivet with the hole in the center. Car also has holes filled under the fender cross flags and 80 psi oil gauge.

Dave

Last edited by DSR; Nov 7, 2010 at 07:51 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 06:07 PM
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Default Look for a steel oil line

Originally Posted by nfran
Is there any way, other than the engine block stamping, to tell if a '65 was an original 396 car? Engine was replaced some time ago and no prior history of car in paper form.
All of the already posted tips to identify a 396 are good. The very good indicators are the driver's side battery and removable panel although they could be changed out. The small blocks used a copper oil line from the dash to the engine. The BB has a steel line impregnated with bits of copper. You can readily see the difference when comparing the two lines. Unfortunately, it's not that difficult to fake a BB car but if you have any doubts you can get all the data off both tags under the glove box and ask Noland Adams.
Best, Raymond
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 08:37 PM
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The fuel line had a 90 deg elbow just before the fuel pump if it is still original. The throttle linkage arm on the firewall is different - leans back slightly instead of forward. Check out some Corvette parts suppliers for the difference. Rear differential yokes should have caps instead of straps if no one has monkeyed with them. Not sure about the 65 for sure, but 66 and 67 mechanical lifter big blocks had transistor ignition so there should be a TI amplifier or evidence of one in the past.
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