Project 396 - THE PLAN
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 306
Likes: 3
From: Horseshoe Bay TX
AZ Doug 
Not to hijack the 396 thread - but i think the 4 bangers might have been refered to as the "Iron Duke" tooo long ago to recall foresure
As to the choice in wheels - IMO go with American Racing or something different like old school Cragars - seems like every midyear (C2) i see at a show has KO's - yes they look great (i've got a set in the shed with goldlines) but there are so many they are boring IMO. I get very positive feedback on the "old school" Americans on old blue!
with your motor selection 
gobs of HP and all the torque u'll every need -only problem even with the 5-speed - you'll never stop filling 'er up at about $54.00 a tankfull
Save the wave !
Not to hijack the 396 thread - but i think the 4 bangers might have been refered to as the "Iron Duke" tooo long ago to recall foresure
As to the choice in wheels - IMO go with American Racing or something different like old school Cragars - seems like every midyear (C2) i see at a show has KO's - yes they look great (i've got a set in the shed with goldlines) but there are so many they are boring IMO. I get very positive feedback on the "old school" Americans on old blue!
with your motor selection gobs of HP and all the torque u'll every need -only problem even with the 5-speed - you'll never stop filling 'er up at about $54.00 a tankfullSave the wave !
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Silver Spring Maryland
Larry,
If I may offer a suggestion. You already have the third pair of tail lights, but they are all red. Why not do it like the Stingray racer? Three tail lights, with the center lights being the white/clear back up lights and no chrome bezels around any of them?
http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/phot...0,0/photo.aspx
I've always preferred the stock two lights, but I really like the way the racer looks. I'm thinking of doing this myself eventually.
Different and subtle.
If I may offer a suggestion. You already have the third pair of tail lights, but they are all red. Why not do it like the Stingray racer? Three tail lights, with the center lights being the white/clear back up lights and no chrome bezels around any of them?
http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/phot...0,0/photo.aspx
I've always preferred the stock two lights, but I really like the way the racer looks. I'm thinking of doing this myself eventually.
Different and subtle.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
Good suggestion. My soft top is now black and the odometer reads 43k miles, last plated in 1980 so the top was likey black as it left St. Louis factory. But that is all I know, no "documentation".
I like your suggestion, beige top would look like this;
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
Larry,
If I may offer a suggestion. You already have the third pair of tail lights, but they are all red. Why not do it like the Stingray racer? Three tail lights, with the center lights being the white/clear back up lights and no chrome bezels around any of them?
http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/phot...0,0/photo.aspx
I've always preferred the stock two lights, but I really like the way the racer looks. I'm thinking of doing this myself eventually.
Different and subtle.
If I may offer a suggestion. You already have the third pair of tail lights, but they are all red. Why not do it like the Stingray racer? Three tail lights, with the center lights being the white/clear back up lights and no chrome bezels around any of them?
http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/phot...0,0/photo.aspx
I've always preferred the stock two lights, but I really like the way the racer looks. I'm thinking of doing this myself eventually.
Different and subtle.
I prefer 6 tail lights, too. This was a very difficult decison, but like some other decisions this "rare and desireable car" statement of fact over-rides my personal wants. I have to restore the car to 4 tail lights.
Larry
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
Clarification
...As to the choice in wheels - IMO go with American Racing or something different like old school Cragars - seems like every midyear (C2) i see at a show has KO's - yes they look great (i've got a set in the shed with goldlines) but there are so many they are boring IMO. I get very positive feedback on the "old school" Americans on old blue!
with your motor selection gobs of HP and all the torque u'll every need -only problem even with the 5-speed - you'll never stop filling 'er up at about $54.00 a tankfull
Save the wave !
with your motor selection gobs of HP and all the torque u'll every need -only problem even with the 5-speed - you'll never stop filling 'er up at about $54.00 a tankfullSave the wave !
1. Rally wheels w 67 caps, 15x7, 215/70R15 tires planned
2. American Racing Torque Thrust II, 17x7, Goodyear tires see here.
Regarding the engine:
1. The car is bone stock except for the engine.
2. The 396 I have is from a 70 Chevelle 396 SS car. Not a decent engine for today's fuels IMHO so I don't want to plow $ into it.
3. The M20 4-speed w a 3.70 is untennable as far as where I live, driving, etc. I don't want a "trailer queen" show car type. If it can't be driven, where is the "fun factor"?
4. I feel w OD in the 5-speed, and w the 500 ft-lbs torque, the 3400 lb (save 100 lbs w the alum heads) car will move around at lower rpm's and maybe get 16 mpg or so. That may be a stretch on MPG, but that's the hope. If needed the 3.70's can be swapped for 3.31's or 3.08's or whatever makes better sense.
5. $54 a fill up? What do we have 16 gallon tanks? I have no idea what size the gas tanks are in a C2.
6. Anyway, the engine is a "driver" designed for lower octane fuels, roller cam, etc. until a 1965 396 can be found and made to "appear as the car left the factory." Then all one has to do is a bolt in swap back to the 4-speed and all.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
With 3.75" bs rally's one can run the 3" trim rings.
I will have those on the rear.
On the front, I wanted extra backspace to clear the fenders by plenty, so have 4.25" bs.
Thanks for posting.
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 167
From: Truckee CA
I wanted to paint the rims Red to match the car, but after test fitting and seeing that the finish of the silver was so nice we keep them as they arrived.
Mark.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 815
Likes: 15
From: Palm City Florida
Jeff's right. Why go 90 some odd percent?Considering how much work you are doing, I think leaving the body on the frame simply because of a concern about door gaps, is a missed opportunity to do the car right for little risk.
If you document the number, thickness, and location of body shims as you remove the body, you should be OK when you put it all back together. You have described a large amount of work, it'd be a shame to leave the body on so that you can spend actually more work trying to restore the chassis on your back.
If you document the number, thickness, and location of body shims as you remove the body, you should be OK when you put it all back together. You have described a large amount of work, it'd be a shame to leave the body on so that you can spend actually more work trying to restore the chassis on your back.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
Keisler Tremec Box Opened
Well it's time to think about getting the engine for the 396 and the Keisler 5-speed "perfect fit kit" installed.
Step 1 Open Box - even has the Keisler invoice showing TKO-600 w 0.64 OD confirmed - that should drop the rpm down to reasonable!
Step 2 inventory parts - seems all here except shifter plate
Step 3 Compare shaft diameter on the Tremec and Muncie 0.60" on both (should fit)
Step 4 Compare shaft length 6.5" on both. (should fit)
Step 5 Open new clutch - both Tremec input shaft and Clutch Disk same 26 spline count. (will fit)
Step 6 Read instructions - conclude assemble outside the car, install engine/trans as a package. Will measure gap between body and trans mount area to see if body shims will be needed.
Step 7 Call parts shop and order Mr. Gasket No. 910 bolts for the pressure plate to flywheel at the advise of Mike Forte who supplied the clutch.
Step 8 Ponder if my engine hoist will lift everything over the body and drop into the engine area without wrecking the paint job or ruin the detail work in the engine area...
Step 1 Open Box - even has the Keisler invoice showing TKO-600 w 0.64 OD confirmed - that should drop the rpm down to reasonable!
Step 2 inventory parts - seems all here except shifter plate
Step 3 Compare shaft diameter on the Tremec and Muncie 0.60" on both (should fit)
Step 4 Compare shaft length 6.5" on both. (should fit)
Step 5 Open new clutch - both Tremec input shaft and Clutch Disk same 26 spline count. (will fit)
Step 6 Read instructions - conclude assemble outside the car, install engine/trans as a package. Will measure gap between body and trans mount area to see if body shims will be needed.
Step 7 Call parts shop and order Mr. Gasket No. 910 bolts for the pressure plate to flywheel at the advise of Mike Forte who supplied the clutch.
Step 8 Ponder if my engine hoist will lift everything over the body and drop into the engine area without wrecking the paint job or ruin the detail work in the engine area...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
Hello there Don!
How is sunny So Cal?
WE have a cruise planned for May 8 - so a deadline always helps things along.
Installing the engine/trans is my major worry at this point. The Tremec is 3" longer and it has to go up on the rear trans mount somehow...
How is sunny So Cal?
WE have a cruise planned for May 8 - so a deadline always helps things along.
Installing the engine/trans is my major worry at this point. The Tremec is 3" longer and it has to go up on the rear trans mount somehow...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,347
Likes: 36
From: San Clemente CA
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 214
From: Iowa
Larry,
Agree with your decision to install eng and trans as a unit...I removed the radiator, support to give me more room to maneuver.
I also dropped the steering arm to better clear the oil pan. Reason was to give me enough room to level the engine low enough to get the tailshaft of the TKO600 up and over my non removable crossmember. If you have already have a removable cross member disregard.
My hoist is the harbor freight rig...has the extendable boom and I needed every inch of it. I also used a load leveler from harbor freight...they have two versions...the load leveler's added length of chain gave me enough distance to get the motor in. I came in from the front and the ram was against the nose...had to wrap the mast to protect the paint. I have installed engines from the side but I was by myself and I needed the room under the car to crawl in and lift the trans over the crossmember...I couldn't do that if I had the hoist coming in from the side so that is why I installed from the front.
Good luck...that eng/transcombo is going to scream!!
Agree with your decision to install eng and trans as a unit...I removed the radiator, support to give me more room to maneuver.
I also dropped the steering arm to better clear the oil pan. Reason was to give me enough room to level the engine low enough to get the tailshaft of the TKO600 up and over my non removable crossmember. If you have already have a removable cross member disregard.
My hoist is the harbor freight rig...has the extendable boom and I needed every inch of it. I also used a load leveler from harbor freight...they have two versions...the load leveler's added length of chain gave me enough distance to get the motor in. I came in from the front and the ram was against the nose...had to wrap the mast to protect the paint. I have installed engines from the side but I was by myself and I needed the room under the car to crawl in and lift the trans over the crossmember...I couldn't do that if I had the hoist coming in from the side so that is why I installed from the front.
Good luck...that eng/transcombo is going to scream!!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 17
From: Saratoga Springs UT
Progress and Status Project 396
Progress and Status
1. Engine installed
2. Paint finished
3. Wiring done enough to run engine.
4. Brakes bled.
5. Car runs good.
6. Drives fine.
7. Way too loud.
8. Some wiring issue draining battery.
9. Still need to finish wiring behind dash, gauges, power windows, headlight motors, wipers, chrome.
10. Sold to Pete Emery of Oregon June 24, 2015
11. Thanks to everyone for all the help!!
1. Engine installed
2. Paint finished
3. Wiring done enough to run engine.
4. Brakes bled.
5. Car runs good.
6. Drives fine.
7. Way too loud.
8. Some wiring issue draining battery.
9. Still need to finish wiring behind dash, gauges, power windows, headlight motors, wipers, chrome.
10. Sold to Pete Emery of Oregon June 24, 2015
11. Thanks to everyone for all the help!!