bowtie123

1961 standard drum brakes.

The right front will pull every time and lock up on hard application.

I had the brakes check and they appear to be in good shape.
These may have been installed as long as 15 years ago and
only driven about 1500 miles since then.
Cylinders are all working and not leaking.
New brake hoses in 2006.
New shoes and drums.
All wheels were bled and adjusted.

Since it was a right front problem I purchased a new left front
cylinder and rubber hose. Upon inspection it was found that
the left cylinder was working and not leaking so we did not
change it but did change the hose.

I had the front end checked and there were no worn parts
that needed replacement. I was told by the alignment shop
that alignment will not cause the brakes to pull, that it was
strictly a brake problem.

I have a work order that came with the car where the right front cylinder was leaking and "Rebuilt" in 2006. I'm thinking that they may have replaced this cylinder with a larger bore. I was going to get a
matching cylinder for the right and change out both of the front cylinders.
I can't think of anything else to do.
I would pefer to keep the drum brakes.

Anybody had a problem like this or any suggestions?

Thanks,

Bob

Frankie the Fink

Changing cylinders in pairs is always best and I think you should stick with that plan (and maybe both front hoses). 1500 miles in 15 years is nothing...the left wheel cylinder may have built up a rusty 'ridge' in the bore when the car sat at length and now can't push past this while the rebuilt right is stopping properly...causing the difference. Also look closely at both front wheels and compare them to the shop manual. Many mechanics now don't know what drum brakes are and I found my rear '66 Mustang brakes assembled incorrectly when I first got it..

MikeM

If I remember right, the replacement cylinders you buy today are a different size than the original. I can't remember whether they're larger or smaller but a mismatch would definitely contribute to pulling one way or the other.

Frank may be on to something too with the piston only going out so far and then sticking on the left side.

I'd take a look internally at BOTH front wheel cylinders. Also, you can pull the drums about 2/3 of the way off the shoes and have someone stroke the brake pedal. Observe if the shoes on both sides expand/contract simultaneously, making sure you don't have one side that's lazy or catching on the shoe guides on the backing plates.

Frankie the Fink

BTW Bob - I see from your zip code you are near the Villages in Florida...you are less than an hour away from Plasticman and wmf62 over in Inverness if you should need another set of expert eyeballs as you bring your '61 "up to snuff". They have helped me gobs over the last three years...

GCD1962

If they only rebuilt the Rt cylinder it might be leaking enough to get on the surface of the brake shoe. A "soaked" shoe will grab and lock up. Too many people who rebuilt wheel cylinders just hone them too much and make for a sloppy fit of the internals. It also could be the brake hose even though new. If it got a kink or bend at any time (and then straightened out) it can still restrict the flow of brake fluid.

bowtie123

Hi again Frankie,

Yes I'm in The Villages.

Do either of these people do any work on the cars?
How can I get in touch with them.
I'm only about 25 miles from Inverness.

Thanks again

Frankie the Fink

These guys both have '62s, know C1s intimately and do their own work on them...I won't speak for the pair out of turn about working on others' cars though.

You can PM them on this forum by their user ids "Plasticman" (John) and "wmf62" (Big Bill) and that leaves them a forum message and shoots an email to them as well.

They drove an hour down to my place to help me straighten out a forum member's C1 turn signals a couple of weekends ago...but you have to consider that they knew I had a frig full of Corona.

Frank

narlee

Is "HAD" the key word?

Frankie the Fink

Sadly that is the case; however the devastating loss was replaced on the wife's last grocery store trip...

bowtie123

You can PM them on this forum by their user ids "Plasticman" (John) and "wmf62" (Big Bill) and that leaves them a forum message and shoots an email to them as well.

Thanks Frankie

I have sent each a PM or at least I think I did.

I'm going to go ahead and replace both front cylinders,
hoses and shoes to see if that takes care of the problem.

Thanks to all the guys for the information,

Plasticman

Bob,

Sent you a "PM" reply. Replacing both cylinders is a great "start", and hope it solves the pulling issue.

Frank,

Coronas were "good". Always a reason come on over.

John

Redbird

I had a similar problem after buying my 62 a couple of years ago. It ended up being the master cylinder. The relief hole in the reservoir had a piece of junk in it thet wouldn't let the pressure release on the hoses. Pull the master cylinder, disassemble, and flush it out. I would also install a rebuild kit and if needed have the MC resleeved.
John F

bowtie123

John,

Thats a good idea,
I think I will have the front steel lines blown out
while I'm at it. I'll report back after I have the work done.

Thanks for the info,

Bob

bowtie123

Thanks to all for the information.

I ended up replacing all the shoes, cylinders and rubber hoses.
Also flushed out the master cylinder and steel lines.
Not sure which cured the problem but it stops straight now with no lock up.

All of the parts I replaced looked new but were about 18 years old with less
then 1500 miles of driving on them.

Now on to the clutch!

Thanks again,

Bob

Frankie the Fink

I just read some more of the owner's manual for 1961.

It says, "Apply the brakes like you mean business." for those old drum brakes.
I thought it was funny but darn good advice.

bowtie123

I would think that back in 1961 a Corvette could stop quicker than
most cars in front of it. Today most cars can stop in half the distance
of the '61 Vette. That means be real cafeful with old drum brakes.
I have not done a hard stop yet as I am still breaking in the new shoes.

JDBob62

Does anyone know if the linkage rod between an aluminum pg and accellorator linkage is the same as used on a 58 or so cast iron pg? I am not referring to the rod between the shifter and the transmission, rather the one that goes forward.

Do anyone have a picture of the linkage on a 62 aluminum pg installed?

Finally, does anyone know a source for the small rubber boot that goes over the bottom of the shifter where it mounts to the transmission (not the one on the floor console hump).

Thanks,

Bob

JDBob62

Ooooooops! I appologize for previous posting. I did not mean to jump in on this brake issue question. I thought I had signed off but instead just realized I am having a senior moment.

Bob