Decided to drive my 61 to work today. One of the guys that is into classic cars wanted a ride in mine during lunch. So, as we got to the car, he says "why is the passenger door so hard to open?". Then he pulls real hard to force it open. Knowing this is not usual for my "baby", I walk around to the passenger side and give it a look.
Turns out the passenger door, for whatever reason, bumped the front fender chrome strip. When he forced the door all the way open, the door pushed on the chrome, sliding it forward one to two inches. It bent out a little where it arches down around the wheel well and now is touching the front bumper.
It wasn't his fault, but as a classic car person, he should have known not to force the door open if it was catching on something. At least this is a daily driver and I can put the strip back on, I think! I have never worked on the chrome strips before.
Anyone know a web site on how to take the strip off and then put it back on?

 

This one.

Although my 62 doesn't have them, I've seen many posts detailing the tricks and tips, from Frankie the Fink and Firstgear to name a few.

Sorry to hear of your oopsie.

 

I completely agree. I take numerous people for rides in my cars and when someone forces anything on a 40 or 50 year old vehicle I come unglued. Don't you love car people that take no care or respect for your baby

The thin chrome strip is easy to put back if not bent. You can slide it back towards the door carefully but the preferred method is to just snap it back on the retaining clip. If you try sliding the trim it's very easy to scratch the paint.

If you are having trouble take a pic so we can see exactually what you are dealing with.

Greg

 

Allan,

Remind people before the ride, that it is not an old Ford or Fiat, so don't force anything!

John (Plasticman)

 

If you can post a photo, it will make sure that our comments can really provide some guidance.

In the meantime, the clip nearest the door is fastened to the fender and the SS trim is pushed or clipped on (on left by door gap). My finger is pointing at one of the fastener locations noted below that I was having a hard time finding where the nut was located. Turns out it is behind the kick pad way up and back. Some are located in this area and the others are accessed from inside the wheel well. Best to remove the wheel/tire to see and have easy access.



The rest of the fasteners twist into a channel on the back side of the SS. These fasteners then pass through the fender and are attached via a nut.


Did the door upper cove piece move because it was loose and slid forward and when the door opened it caused the fender top cove piece to move as you described? You need to find out what moved to cause the contact with the fender top cove and make sure that is resolved so it doesnt happen again.

As far as getting the piece back on, you could try to slide it back, but you should loosen the fasteners. If you do that, then it would probably be best to take them all out and make sure that the back side of the trim piece is still ok and will grip the molding retainer ok. If that is ok, then put the molding retainers in the right position and remount the trim piece. Saving the attachment of the trim by the door gap for last. Remember that one snaps on.

Did I cover what your question was?

 

Firstgear pretty much covered it...however...folks want to run that top fender cove molding right to the edge of the door gap and that is a mistake. It should actually be a slight distance back from the gap (see the circles in the picture) so that opening the door does not cause the very problem you describe. If you manage to be able to reuse the same molding observe this practice.

Since the gal wanting the photo op last summer banged her big 'shoplifter' purse against the side of my car with all the brass buckles and crap I have a pretty hard line about riders (or folks in the driver's seat for a picture).
1) Nothing in your hands...give your drink and camera to your friend.
2) Sit down on the seat sideways with your feet on the ground.
3) Raise your feet up (taking them out of the shoes if possible) and slide around facing forward raising your feet up high to clear the door sills. (This works best for me with girls wearing short skirts).
4) Don't get up against the sheet metal on the doors with wedding rings or bracelets.
5) Smile for the picture (if you still can)

If its a child I generally lift him/her into the seat...if the parent balks at that (and I can understand with the pervs running around) then no picture for you kid...

 

This next picture is straight from the AIM for your car and you should note carefully that there are TWO TYPES OF FASTENERS for this molding. BOTH TYPES go completely through the fiberglass but the "C" type is used where you can easily reach the back of the clip to place a nut on it and the molding slides onto this style of clip.

The "D" type of fastener are for those 'blind' areas where you can NOT get to the back so the clip is screwed (not bolted) on and the molding snaps onto these clips.

(The type "X" molding shown is the same as "C" but with an extra washer for support at the back.)

Another 'rookie' mistake is that the "D" fastener screw hole may be stripped out so folks put a larger screw in to hold the clip and the bigger screw head is a GUARANTEED dimple in your nice stainless molding when you snap it on. If the hole is stripped....fill it in and use the correct screw for the "D" fastener.

I think I've covered everything. Oh...almost forget...let your friend know how much grief he caused you.

 

Based entirely on this photo, I never realized that The Fink's car was a duo-tone. I love it !

Ray

 

gr8corvette
i've replaced my molding several times over the past 20 years or so, and i've prep'ed this way;
one additional step to prep , i've used the 2"-3" "blue "painters masking tape around the molding lines clips -on both upper and lower sides , then i've put a piece of "gray" "duct" tape on top of the blue painters tape.....thus i have piece of mind and no problems if i slip and no scratching the paint--and no problem in peeling the tape off when finnished..
hope this helps.
John

 

Maybe he'll repost the pics he posted earlier in the year of his car with the white hardtop that he picked up. I thought his car looked really good with the white top and the white coves but maybe he's painted the top maroon by now.

-- Steve

 

Nope the hardtop is still 'tighty whitey' and I plan on putting on the car Nov and running with it for a few months. Blue quick release painter's tape is ALWAYS a great idea when your finish is at risk. I use miles of it. It also lets you mark the position of the clips on the tape with a Sharpee (see picture) so you know where to apply the pressure to 'snap' the molding on.