What is the best way to clean your ignition shielding? Mine seems to be older and doesn't have much shine. I have used some never dull cleaner with moderate success. I'd like to really get the shine to pop.

Thanks.

 

Try some OOOO steel wool, on the underside first to see the results and then try the top side...I use OOOO steel wool on my bumpers and exhaust tips like the results.


jack

 

Some of your shielding will be stainless steel, and some will be chrome plated steel. If you decide to get after it with a buffing wheel and buffing rouge, be sure you know which is stainless, which is chrome.

The distributor cover is stainless, the pieces at the exhaust manifolds are chrome plated thin steel (on my 62 at least) and the verticle pieces are stainless.

 

Send the stainless to us and we will poish it to show condition

 

Is that the same for repro shields?

 

I'm not sure about midyear stuff. My repro shielding on my 62 was a mix as described in my post. I don't run anything on my 65 but the distributor shielding and the 2 verticle pieces. I've no interest in fighting the boomerang or plug shields (other than the heat shields).

 

Here is what I usually do to get any tins or chrome clean.

1. Use a cleaner to get any dirt/grease off of them
2. Use some OOO or OO steel wool to get any tarnish off of them
3. Use mothers mag/aluminum polish to get them to shine like new
4. Enjoy your shiney new chrome

I've been doing this for years and they always turn out perfect.

 

Will the 0000 steel wool leave fine scratches in show-quality chrome?

 

NEVER use steel wool of any aught. It WILL scratch your chrome.

 

That i cannot tell you...I know i use it on my newly chromed front bumpers to get the bugs off and then use some cleaner...Adams...for the final clean, I do not see any marks, scratches on them.

jack

 

Don't use steel wool on chrome unless it's bad and you're trying to get a little more time out of it. If you have good chrome it will make it look nice but it won't be long before you start having problems.

 

I'd think twice before doing that again - the clear chrome layer on your bumpers is only a half a thousandth of an inch thick, and if you wear through it, the underlying nickel layer will be exposed, followed by dulling and pits. You want to use a WAX on them (and lots of it), not anything abrasive, including "chrome polish".

 

As most of you have heard previously I use Autosol for most metal cleaning and polishing. Wash it first and use a small dab on a damp cloth. Stuff's great, and no scratches, even on 14K gold. Motorcycle shops or some auto stores stock it.

 

WOW...I had no idea....What kind of wax do you recommend?

jack

 

I, too, have success with Mother's products. I did notice however that on their Mag & Aluminum Polish they have a note saying "Not recommended for gold plating, chrome, anodized, painted or coated metals" I think this is stated because it has some degree of abrasiveness which works well for polishing aluminum, such as for motorcycle cases. For chrome, the Mother's Chrome Polish works well. Vetterway

 

steel wool--yikes!
i use chrome polish -turtle wax -from the auto store..
i also use "pink magic polish and metal cleaner"( it's like a cotton with something in it) on the chrome and stainless....works great for me...
jmo

p.s. john z --why not chrome polish..now i'm curious...

john

 

Any good automotive WAX, not a "polish"; waxes don't contain abrasives, polishes do.

 

My understanding is polish has a very fine abrasive and that is what gives it the capability to remove imperfections and provide the fine shine. That is why it is the last stage before waxing unless you unless you use glaze after polishing.

 

Well the terminology depending on product is vague. I will also say, I was bit vague. I use the term "compund"which is actually "polishing compund" what I call polish many would consider a glaze. I and the commercial suppliers I am familiar with refer to any abrasive additive as a compound. The clear coat polishes I use are purely chemical in nature.
Some of the old school polishes may have used an ultra fine grit. I used a product on laquer finishes back in the 80s (no longer available) it had diatenacious earth (fossil dust) it was the best. The grit would disentigrate with the heat of the compounding process. leaving no swirls on the first run. Worked on clear coats too. Guy who made the stuff died.
My polishes were and are still advertised as NO ABRASIVES.

If the compounding and polishing (Polishing being the last stage before waxing in my shops anyhow) is done right,a glaze is not needed. A glaze is just going to cover scratches that should been removed during the compund and polishing process. Wax will do a similar thing. The retail market is full of crap that isn't needed. It's marketing. There are no retail products that compare with commercial products (Except the pure waxes we all can buy.ZYMOL,PURE CARNUBAS ETC..). A glaze just isn't needed IMHO. In the business,glaze is in the same league as a liquid wax. I don't use either.
When the wax wears off my dark finishes. There are no swirls or scratches.

 

Sorry Johnz.

I will also say, I was bit vague. I use the term "compound" which is actually "polishing compound" what I call polish many would consider a glaze. I and the commercial suppliers I am familiar with refer to any abrasive additive as a compound. The clear coat polishes I use are purely chemical in nature. Some may call them glazes.