1962 clutch return spring
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Bucyrus Ohio
2017 C1 of the Year Finalist
1962 clutch return spring
Hi, After being apart way to long I am ready to put my 1962 corvette together. But as ususal I have come accros a little snag.
The heavy clutch return spring!!!
You see I have mixed the original spring in with 2 others that are very similar. ( your right I should have marked the correct one very clearly but I didn't)
So, does anyone out there have the measurements of the correct spring.
I would like overall length, length of coil and diameter of coil and diameter of the wire it is made of. But any help will be appreciated.
Thanks
The heavy clutch return spring!!!
You see I have mixed the original spring in with 2 others that are very similar. ( your right I should have marked the correct one very clearly but I didn't)
So, does anyone out there have the measurements of the correct spring.
I would like overall length, length of coil and diameter of coil and diameter of the wire it is made of. But any help will be appreciated.
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
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From: Taylor Michigan
fairly simple, its the biggest spring on the car to the exclusion of the rear axle springs...I actually used an electric chain fall to put mine back on and the left fender started to lift before the spring started to stretch....
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
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From: Conroe Texas
If you can post a photo of the 3 springs we can probably pick the right one out.
The correct spring would originally had yellow paint on the long end of the spring, where it connects to the cross shaft pivot. If you can find a little yellow paint still in place, that would tell you which spring was original.
The correct spring would originally had yellow paint on the long end of the spring, where it connects to the cross shaft pivot. If you can find a little yellow paint still in place, that would tell you which spring was original.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Beverly Hills (Pine Ridge) Florida
And contrary to what Ironcross stated, it is actually quite easy to put it back on....
No special tool is required other than a large Crescent Wrench (12" or so). Assemble the spring at the bottom, then assemble it onto upper bracket (the bracket that bolts to the cross shaft), then assemble the bracket to the cross shaft using the bottom bolt only (leave this bolt loose so that the bracket can pivot in relation to the cross shaft). Then attach the Crescent wrench to the top of the bracket (across the upper end of the bracket - about a 1" gap at the Crescent wrench) and pivot the bracket into place and insert the top bolt. Adjust the bracket via the Crescent wrench (in relation to the cross shaft) so that the specified effort is obtained at the pedal, and then tighten the 2 bolts (see the ST-12 for adjustment procedure).
And the front suspension (coil) springs are larger!
Hope this helps,
Plasticman
No special tool is required other than a large Crescent Wrench (12" or so). Assemble the spring at the bottom, then assemble it onto upper bracket (the bracket that bolts to the cross shaft), then assemble the bracket to the cross shaft using the bottom bolt only (leave this bolt loose so that the bracket can pivot in relation to the cross shaft). Then attach the Crescent wrench to the top of the bracket (across the upper end of the bracket - about a 1" gap at the Crescent wrench) and pivot the bracket into place and insert the top bolt. Adjust the bracket via the Crescent wrench (in relation to the cross shaft) so that the specified effort is obtained at the pedal, and then tighten the 2 bolts (see the ST-12 for adjustment procedure).
And the front suspension (coil) springs are larger!
Hope this helps,
Plasticman
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Army
The prescribed pressure for the spring (on a '61) is 6 to 9 pounds and Plasticman's technique works perfectly. I have had to do it 3-4 times in the last month due to failure of a repro clutch rod bushing and then having to replace a Z-bar ball stud shortly afterwards.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
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From: Conroe Texas
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Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
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From: Conroe Texas
I took measurements off my 62, in the installed position:
Outside diameter of spring coil set: 1.250"
Wire diameter: 0.272"
Length of top "J" "from place where it hooks to the cross shaft piece 53167 to the top of the first coil: 5" (this is everything that is yellow in the photo above plus the little bit of straight between the yellow and the first coil
Outside diameter of spring coil set: 1.250"
Wire diameter: 0.272"
Length of top "J" "from place where it hooks to the cross shaft piece 53167 to the top of the first coil: 5" (this is everything that is yellow in the photo above plus the little bit of straight between the yellow and the first coil
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Taylor Michigan
when I use the chain fall, I used a long spare fan belt on the spring to the chain fall and just started stretching until it matched up to the bracket, slipped it on the bracket and then released it.....no busted knuckles or bloody fingers and no wrenches were used and the fan belt prevented any damage to the paint......Like I stated above, simple...
Race Director
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From: Camp Verde AZ
C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
2017 C1 of Year Finalist
or, just replace the original style PP with a diaphragm PP, and ditch the heavy spring for one that has 5 lb/inch pull rate.
Doug
Doug
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Army
IIRC you go the opposite way with the wrench to get the clutch spring loose. Again, there is a 'sweet spot' where the clutch rod return spring bracket (the oval shaped item with the hole for the end of the spring) will pop off with a little help.
Sounds harder than it is and probably takes all of 2 minutes. The effort to move the Z-bar this way against the spring is minimal. When properly adjusted the gorilla spring has 6lbs to 9lbs of force at its peak (per the ST-12) many handgun triggers are 7lb pull..(not mine though!)
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Sep 23, 2010 at 07:39 AM.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 384
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From: Granbury TX
It always amazes me that part nbrs 531367 and 531370 take the brunt of the force front that big ol spring. Being the weakest link it seems they should break easily but mine has been on for 10+ years and they still look fine.
Team Owner
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Army
I can tell you first hand that the most susceptible part to wear (outside of the clutch rod bushing) is the top of the chassis-side ball stud for the Z-bar. That spring just grinds the Z-bar hardened tube onto that ball stud with every pedal push. As with many things in life - its all about the lube.
Here's mine beside a brand new one:
Here's mine beside a brand new one:
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Beverly Hills (Pine Ridge) Florida
I can tell you first hand that the most susceptible part to wear (outside of the clutch rod bushing) is the top of the chassis-side ball stud for the Z-bar. That spring just grinds the Z-bar hardened tube onto that ball stud with every pedal push. As with many things in life - its all about the lube.
Here's mine beside a brand new one:
Here's mine beside a brand new one:
Another of those "you get less than you paid for" parts from an offshore source. The machined finish on that new ball stud looks like it was made with a hacksaw....... It should not be grooved, and should be very smooth.
And mate it with the Z-Bar (which not only rotates, but has some side to side and angular movement) and it will wear both out sooner, than later. Hope you used a good synthetic grease.
John
Last edited by Plasticman; Sep 23, 2010 at 05:39 PM.