It sounds like a very unique car. So far you have established it as a L75 coupe with factory air and a powerglide with (most) numbers matching. I live in KY and have just wandered into this hobby too. Maybe we can cruise sometime and compare cars (or bikes).

However, if you get rid of it, there is no more excitement. Most on here live and breathe Vettes, but some don't. I think even if you aren't loving it currently, there may be a phase that you will. Keep it clean, indoors, and covered, and if it lots of time passes and you haven't enjoyed it, then its time to get rid of it. Sounds like too much fun still, and that car is probably worth a lot from the sounds of it...for me the pride of owning such a car almost outweighs lots of money you could have. But mine is also a family heirloom for my wife, which may be the same case for you.

 

I'm baaacck! Well, we have to end our quest for the day. Our goal was to try to verify numbers for the drive train as suggested by 63split63, but since the car isn't up on jacks and I don't have a lift in my garage, we couldn't get the rear-end numbers... Or I should say we didn't get the numbers we thought we should find.

When considering the rear end. Looking from the rear of the vehicle on the right side of the differential, we found a casted number A284 which may be prefixed with the letter C. The C does not appear to be of the same casting as it is much less visible.

Looking from forward of the right rear tire at the right side of the differential we saw what looks like a time casting with a round head with the needle pointing at the first dot clockwise of the double dot. We don't know if any of this is pertinent. Can't find anything in our reference materials.

We found the tranny number T0525N (Toledo May 25 Nightshift). Documentation from the original restorer claims this to be the original aluminum Powerglide, how do we know this to be sure? How do you tie that to my car? Who's to say the tranny wasn't changed?

I also found more papers of my dads listing all of the options of my car. Incase anyone is interested I'll list them here:
Daytona Blue Exterior 4395L, Code #916
Daytona Blue Interior 4464L
Interior Trim Combination Blue and White Vinyl Code #491GA
L-75 Engine
M-35 Powerglide
C-60 A/C
J-50 Pwr Brakes
A-02 Tinted Windshield
T-86 Backup lamps
U-89 Am/FM radio
N-40 Pwr steering
A-32 Pwr windows
P-92 W/w Tires

More importantly I talked to my Dad today! Hope y'all have a great evening. Thanks for helping me with my car and fueling this renewed excitement in it!! My day off now ends so its back to work tomorrow!

 

Earlier you said the Birthday calculator predicted a late March build date for your car. By definition then, a May transmission would not be possible to appear in a March car.

 

Ah ha! You are absolutely correct and I said the same thing! However, Noland Adams vol 2 page 236 says the code is the same as the 1963 model M-35. So, is it possible the tranny is manufactured in May 63 and then placed in the car in March of 64? That is not explained in any of our books...NCRS, black book or Noland Adams. I cannot find an explanation anywhere to resolve this issue.

 

It is not likely. A few days to a few weeks prior to the car build date is more typical, up to 6 months prior to the build date of the car is what NCRS will accept, although it isn't the norm.

A transmisson built in May 63 would be far too early for a March 64 car.

Note that May 25 of 63 was a Saturday, I do not know if transmissions were built on weekends.

 

Ok, well that's disappointing , my husband read that number crawling what little he could under the car. He wants to put the car up on jack stands and wants to know if there are any special concerns about doing so. This way we can do a more thorough inspection of the undercarriage.

 

I've had good luck jacking my 65 as follows:
1) Place my floor jack on the passenger side frame rail just forward of the center transmission cross member
2) Raise car. Both wheels will come off ground
3) Put jack stands just behind front wheel, and just forward of rear wheel, under the side frame rails.
4) Move jack to driver's side and repeat steps 1-3

The key is to not raise the car too high on one side at any one time.

 

I appreciate your assistance! Have a good nite!

 

You are welcome. As with any car up on jack stands, be cautious and safe.

Your rear end housing should have a code stamped on the bottom of it. This code will tell us what rear axle ratio was originally in it.

As for the transmission, it's always possible (but difficult to prove) that your car got a new transmission in May or June of 1964 under warranty.

 

A set of ramps is an inexpensive and safe way to do all kinds of stuff underneath a car, but use safety stands as back up insurance. I made my own from a popular mechanics book about 35 years ago and they're still better than the metal ones I bought. Wood 2x8's and 1x6's. I'll take some pics if you want. I envy you both finding something you enjoy doing together. My dates over the years were useless in the garage and had no interest in learning.

~^~^~^~^~~~^~^~^~^~^~

 

Get some Race Ramps and your troubles are over. BTW - rather than hitting up Noland's weighty book every time..this site will give you lots of numbers info just look under the "Corvette Specifications" tab: http://www.corvette-world.com/corvet..._1953_1967.php

 

Ok, this may be a really dumb question, but how did you get your back tires up there?

Thanks for the specs url also!

Jeff, hubby verified the number on the tranny and it is the May date...he also said it looks like the tranny oil pan with the date stamp doesn't look as though it fits the rest of the transmission. Its too new looking, too shiny, visible gasket material between, just doesn't look right, etc...He hasn't yet measured the height of the numbers... This one is very shiny. Looks chromed. What was the original material?

 

Would love to see those pictures. Hubby is very handy with a saw too! The car is up on jacks and its a little scary!

 

Three to five pumps on a racing floor jack placed under the differential gets the car up enough to slide the rear wheel 'cribs' under the tires and you're done.

 

Can I get an Amen?!

 

It was ordinary steel - not plated; if it's chromed, it's been replaced.

 

Speaking of jacking up the car, I hear that it is best to jack up with the doors shut. A buddy of mine jacks up his 69 convert with the doors open. What is the right way?

 

Here you go Maria, the lumber is pine I think but it doesn't really matter, not hardwood, too heavy. 2X10's and 1X4's, and measurements are on pic. Paint would probably be good.

Don't even have to pick 'em up, just step on the stop and they pop into your hand. Still look pretty good for 35 years of use.

 

Great thread. Jeff, you are the man! JohnZ may have the answers to the most difficult of questions, but you know this stuff too and spend a lot of time here helping others. Post #8 maybe the best ever written on that topic. Kudo's to Wombvette and the Fink as well. The four of you add much to this forum and even at times so does K when he has taken his meds. Thanks guys

 

Awe shucks, you say the nicest thangs, I'm blushing, but it could be booze burn.....! K