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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 12:30 PM
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Default Installing roller rockers

I am going to install a set of Harland Sharp roller rockers in my 65 L-79. Can anyone tell me the correct procedure. I have a feeling it is not just a matter of bolting them in. Also, I have a stock engine rebuilt with flat top pistons. Can anyone tell me if I have 3/8" or 7/16" studs? Are there any other parts that I should purchase? I am assuming I should go with 1.5 ratio as apposed to 1.6.
Thanks,

Larry
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 01:39 PM
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Sorry to ask, but if you know so little about the engine and installing the rocker arms why are you doing it? The change on a stock engine will be unnoticable in performance.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 01:54 PM
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GCD1962,
I appreciate your feedback. I was just talking to a buddy who said the same thing. I am looking for ways to improve the car. It has been done for about 3 years and I am dying to wrench on it again.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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You'd be better off with a steel roller rocker like comp cams ones. They fit under the stock covers, the Harland ones don't. You won't notice any performance gain, none.

Last edited by Kerrmudgeon; Sep 25, 2010 at 06:17 PM. Reason: sp
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 05:47 PM
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It's unfortunate that a person can't ask for advise and receive it. Seems now days lot's of people just want to rain on someones parade. Hopes it's just a few grouches and not corvette snobbery.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Lee H
It's unfortunate that a person can't ask for advise and receive it. Seems now days lot's of people just want to rain on someones parade. Hopes it's just a few grouches and not corvette snobbery.
So, if I planned on putting a 1250CFM Quickfuel carb. on a 283 and asked what jets I should run, those that tried to tell me not to do it (I certainly hope someone would) are grouches or snobs? I don't think so.
The comments above were made to help out the O.P. and were right on the money.

Jim
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 06:25 PM
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If you want some fairly easy noticeable improvements, look to increasing the air and exhaust flow with headers and less restrictive mufflers, and low restriction air filter. That and re-curving your distributor with an advance kit are fairly easy, and even if you don't go a lot faster, you'll sound good....! Better than your first choice IMHO.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign
I am going to install a set of Harland Sharp roller rockers in my 65 L-79. Can anyone tell me the correct procedure. I have a feeling it is not just a matter of bolting them in. Also, I have a stock engine rebuilt with flat top pistons. Can anyone tell me if I have 3/8" or 7/16" studs? Are there any other parts that I should purchase? I am assuming I should go with 1.5 ratio as apposed to 1.6.
Thanks,

Larry
stay away from the 1.6 rockers as you may have to drill your pushrod guide holes in the heads depending on which heads you have
harland sharp is the originator of the roller rockers and for many years they made them for crane cams and others
you more than likely have the 3/8" studs
if you install them and do notice a performance gain, then your old ones were faulty or were not up to the 1.5 ratio specs
follow the sticky on how to adjust them depending on which cam you are running
however you are more than likely wasting time and moolah here
jmho...good luck....
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 08:04 PM
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Thanks guys. Just looking for a project. I really need to wrench on something.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign
Thanks guys. Just looking for a project. I really need to wrench on something.
With winter fast approaching the midwest I feel the same way.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign
I am going to install a set of Harland Sharp roller rockers in my 65 L-79. Can anyone tell me the correct procedure. I have a feeling it is not just a matter of bolting them in. Also, I have a stock engine rebuilt with flat top pistons. Can anyone tell me if I have 3/8" or 7/16" studs? Are there any other parts that I should purchase? I am assuming I should go with 1.5 ratio as apposed to 1.6.
Thanks,

Larry
Larry you have the smaller one in the studs. Plus this upgrade will help the car as far as less wear on the vavle train. And will help in freeing up some HP but like the other guys have said may not be able to tell any diff in the perforance of the roller on the car.. But will put alot less wear on the top end.. Go for it man.... And stay with the 1.5 All the 1.6 will do is give the car a little more lift in the cam...
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by robert miller
Larry you have the smaller one in the studs. Plus this upgrade will help the car as far as less wear on the vavle train. And will help in freeing up some HP but like the other guys have said may not be able to tell any diff in the perforance of the roller on the car.. But will put alot less wear on the top end.. Go for it man.... And stay with the 1.5 All the 1.6 will do is give the car a little more lift in the cam...
All he's going to save is the wear on the valve tops. I think you're thinking of roller lifters....? And you need a new cam to go with that.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 12:51 PM
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Harlan Sharp roller rockers will add maybe 1% HP due to less friction with the fulcrum rocker. Check and make sure you have the correct pushrod length and I would recommend hardened tip pushrods since you are replacing the rockers anyway. Have fun
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 02:33 PM
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Reduced wear on the valve stems is marketing hype; the only benefit is a miniscule friction reduction at the fulcrum that you'd need NASA-level instrumentation to quantify.

The "LS" engines (including the 638hp LS-9) and the Viper use cast-steel roller-fulcrum rockers with plain tips (see photo below) - that tells you something about the worth of rollers at the valve stem end.

The only production full-roller rocker arm application I recall offhand was the short-lived C4 Corvette LT-4 that used Crane roller rockers, and that didn't last long.

Spend the money somewhere else where you'll actually derive some benefit.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 03:56 PM
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Thanks John, that is good information. What is the best way to get the most out of a stock l-79?
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign
Thanks John, that is good information. What is the best way to get the most out of a stock l-79?
Tune it to stock specs, especially the distributor; chances are it's not even close to having the correct advance curve in it after being messed with by 45 years' worth of owners, the vacuum advance unit may or may not be working, bushings may be worn, shaft end play may be excessive, and it's probably never been rebuilt - they just sit back there in the dark, hidden under the ignition shielding, and never get any maintenance at all.

The best seat-of-the-pants performance improvement while still keeping it stock is to clean up the cast transition between the valve seats and the ports; all those sharp edges in the bowl area under the valves are hiding a LOT of mid-range power, but the heads have to come off to do that.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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Thanks John,
I should have mentioned that I have a MSD distributor. The shop I deal with plugged the vacuum advance. I am not totally convinced that was the right thing to do. This distributor has provisions to adjust the curve via different stops.(different colors)
As to the heads. Are you talking about polish and porting?
Larry
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign
Thanks John,
I should have mentioned that I have a MSD distributor. The shop I deal with plugged the vacuum advance. I am not totally convinced that was the right thing to do. This distributor has provisions to adjust the curve via different stops.(different colors)
As to the heads. Are you talking about polish and porting?
Larry
Put that shop on the (long) list of shops that haven't a clue how ignition systems are designed to work; connect the vacuum advance to a full manifold vacuum source, like the factory did.

No, I'm not talking about porting and polishing; just cleaning up the transitions in the bowl area immediately below the valve seats.
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
No, I'm not talking about porting and polishing; just cleaning up the transitions in the bowl area immediately below the valve seats.
a.k.a. "bowl blending" or "pocket porting" and it will cost you between $300 and $500 for the pair depending on the shop.

DT
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by kerrmudgeon
All he's going to save is the wear on the valve tops. I think you're thinking of roller lifters....? And you need a new cam to go with that.
Not even that. And you are adding a lot more moving parts to fail.
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