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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 11:23 AM
  #1  
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Default Door gaps

New front clip and rear quarters, how much door gap should I have. I have about 1/8" at front and rear of door, is this too small a gap. I'm worried that body flex will make the door and rear quarter panel (especially at top of door) hit each other. Don't want to chip the paint!



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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 11:42 AM
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I believe 1/8" is spec with a +/-.

If it were mine, I'd open the margins to 4mil. and make them straight and even.
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 12:27 PM
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For what it's worth, I checked my gaps on my 65 ragtop, and they are about 1/4" on both doors, front and back. I think your concerns about body flex with those gaps are well founded. I would be afraid to jack up the car.........sure looks nice though.
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 12:31 PM
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If you can stick a paint stir stick in the gap with almost zero drag then you are right on.
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 12:36 PM
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If you properly install the door alignment wedges, the gaps should be fine. The wedges are designed to prevent the gaps from closing up during frame flexing. I like running tight gaps as well, and I have no problems, but my wedges are set tight. I use a paint stick as a gauge as well.


Regards, John McGraw
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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Door-to-fender and quarter panel gap spec is 1/8" to 1/4"; all body fit gap and flush specs are shown in UPC 11/13 in the Assembly Manual.
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 12:45 PM
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As illustrated in the '63 shop manual,

door/fender is 1/8"-1/4"

hood/fender is 1/16"-1/4"

hood/headlight panel is 1/8"-1/4"

headlight bucket/opening 1/16"-3/16"


There may be more or later information elsewhere. When you run very tight margins, you better be good with the flushness or out of flush will stick out like a sore thumb.
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM

There may be more or later information elsewhere. When you run very tight margins, you better be good with the flushness or out of flush will stick out like a sore thumb.
Good point Mike, the closer together the easier it is for the eye to see the difference in the levels between the adjoining surfaces.
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 04:40 PM
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Hey guys, thanks for the quick feedback! Didn't remember about the the door wedges and I like the small gap, so I'll use the paint stick as a gauge. And the body panels will be matched to each other for good smooth flow.

Bought an el-cheapo HVLP gun from HF and using Evercoat (?) primer will start blocking the rear of car, working my way forward.

With the major 'glass work completed, I brought my car home to an A/C garage, now I work a little and watch TV, too!





Leaving tomorrow for Cruisin' the Coast, lots of great cars, cops are pretty cool as long as you're not too stupid

CJ

And, check out my bucket seat! Did that so I could wash 'glass dust off and still drive in and out of garage and around yard. Also, did a few burn outs on driveway.

Last edited by 40ZR1; Oct 6, 2010 at 04:51 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 05:20 PM
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Looks like that B/seat is hooked up good... Looks like it will be a nice car when done.... Good job...
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 06:05 PM
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Love the seat....does it come in RED ?
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by John McGraw
If you properly install the door alignment wedges, the gaps should be fine. The wedges are designed to prevent the gaps from closing up during frame flexing. I like running tight gaps as well, and I have no problems, but my wedges are set tight. I use a paint stick as a gauge as well.


Regards, John McGraw
What are door alignment wedges and how are they used??

Thanks,
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 10:26 PM
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65ZR1, if you look at the picture with the bucket seat at the top of the door pillar you can see four holes, the two vertical inside are aluminum rivets that attach the door pillar to the birdcage. The two outside vertical threaded holes are for the door wedges and match two threaded holes in the door. They are plastic (?) with elongated slots for adjustment.
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 40ZR1
65ZR1, if you look at the picture with the bucket seat at the top of the door pillar you can see four holes, the two vertical inside are aluminum rivets that attach the door pillar to the birdcage. The two outside vertical threaded holes are for the door wedges and match two threaded holes in the door. They are plastic (?) with elongated slots for adjustment.
Same wedges are used on the deck gaps on the convertible.
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 11:04 PM
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They look good those gaps Lexus/Audi/Merc gaps all round ! Stewy
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 40ZR1
65ZR1, if you look at the picture with the bucket seat at the top of the door pillar you can see four holes, the two vertical inside are aluminum rivets that attach the door pillar to the birdcage. The two outside vertical threaded holes are for the door wedges and match two threaded holes in the door. They are plastic (?) with elongated slots for adjustment.
Thanks for the info!
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 05:25 PM
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Is that a Vespa on the bench? Gaps look OK to me. Shemp
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 08:23 PM
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Yeap, 1954 Allstate Vespa. Bought it several years ago from original owner (fulfilling my childhood dream), last registered in 1957. Took it completely apart rebuilt the mechanicals, replaced deteriorated rubber and cleaned it up. 'They're only original once.'



Hey Shemp, what did you finally use to clean that trans case? "Inquiring minds want to know"

CJ
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 40ZR1
Yeap, 1954 Allstate Vespa. Bought it several years ago from original owner (fulfilling my childhood dream), last registered in 1957. Took it completely apart rebuilt the mechanicals, replaced deteriorated rubber and cleaned it up. 'They're only original once.'

[IMG]http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii270/40ZR1/100_1632.jpg[/IM
G]


Hey Shemp, what did you finally use to clean that trans case? "Inquiring minds want to know"

CJ
What's an old Vespa worth over there ! Damn expensive here.. Stewy
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 09:49 PM
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Stewy, don't know what they're worth but the parts are damn expensive. Had to have a couple of ball bearings made. New ones are too wide, thankfully I found a small bearing company in California that surface ground the widths of the inner and outer races before assembly.

As an aside, how do you copy a post as you have done? If I can't beat it with a 20 pounder, it's rocket science to me! Took me two tries to post this.

CJ
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