We had this problem before going thru the car this summer. And we thought that we had discovered the problems that would cause it to stall when coming to a stop, and or going from park to drive. (problems found: Vac leak, none working Vac and centrifugal advance in the distributor, miss matched carb and manifold). But it's back.

Today was the first real test drive (a whopping 10 miles). Coolant temps stayed at or below 180, but as the rest of the car warms up, and in stop an go type of driving, the motor will start to miss (it really feels like it shuts down for just a second). This will happen a couple to three time then just stall. It will state right back up, but as soon as you pull it into gear the motor stalls. (I first thought that and it may still be the cause... Vapor lock?). I was also thinking that maybe the torque converter is locking up, because the trans when it's warm, just bangs into gear from neutral or park. My third guess is that the Holly carb may have a warped base plate.

I can anticipate the stall and by standing on the brake and applying throttle the motor will keep running. (most of the time).

The other new (and maybe old) problem is that the motor will not pull much above 3k. Above that its like it's starving/missing. It can be slowly pulled to about 4k, but will not take full throttle, and just goes flat.

We will not get into the Valve cover leaking at the bolts (i think).

Thanks for any advice.

Mark.

 

What year car, what engine?

Common suspects would be a coil going weak when hot or a fuel delivery problem (fuel pump, plugged up carb, dirty sock on the fuel pick-up).

 

I would go thru the carb again...check float levels, loose screws, etc. Let somebody who knows Holleys look at it. Or buy a universal replacement #1850 (600 cfm)

Heat riser stuck? Check timing again, both static and advances..easy to do with a light and vac leaks...pcv hooked up?

 

You might be right about the coil, it's leaking oil at the top. I'll pick up a new one, and try it.

 

Heat riser has been removed, timing is spot on, and it's advancing. I will check the vac advance, but the distributor was just rebuilt. I have gone thru the carb (all new gaskets, needles, power valve). Floats were set. I will go back and check them.

Thanks all for the things to check. If all of the above fails, I do have a shop that I trust and will be taking it there.

Mark

 

At a minimum, replace the coil since it's leaking. It is at least "a" problem and it might even be "the" problem. When the engine heats up electrical components can break down. When you put the car under a load (accelerating and trying to get over 4k rpms) you also stress the ignition system.

Sounds like a prime suspect may be your coil.

 

Had the same issue in my Dad's 62 one time. That was the last thing we suspected.

 

you have your problem.

 

Thanks All

I'm off to the parts store. (What time do they open?)

Mark.

 

I assume your car is powerglide equipped. Which VAC are you using and what is the vaccum @ idle in Drive?

 

Haven't checked the vac when running but it's strong enough that the power brakes are working very well. I did replace the coil, witch did seem to fix the stalling, but it was very cool (mid 50s) here today. I did put about 20 miles driving around with the air on, and a 10 mile run up and down the interstate. The motor still will not pull much above 4k rpm with out stumbling. Spark plugs are next, and I'm also thinking that the secondaries are not opening.

The power glide is still clunking in when warm, and you know when it's down shifting coming to a stop. Still will not kick down though.

More work to do.

Mark

 

don't laugh at this but it could be your exhaust system is partially plugged up

if you have replaced it then, nevermind!..good luck..

 

It's a brand new chambered system. Very open, in fact maybe just a little to open. Still haven't welded any of it up so that may get changed some on Monday.

Mark.