When I bought my 58 vette it came without a center crossmember. Well I finally got one and welded it into place. I had the frame on a dolly with the front and rear crossmembers in place. I measured from the front of the frame (both sides) to the floor and made sure everything was the same or VERY close. I did the same for the rear. Then I welded the center crossmember into place. Now I've taken the front crossmember off (want to get a Meyer's setup) and lowered the frame to the floor. Now when I check the frame measurements everything is off. Here's what I get (I have a picture, with measurements, from my Corvette Frame Restoration book but didn't know if that would be copyrighting if I put it on here):

Front of frame to floor: Pass Side = 8-5/16"/Driver Side 8-1/8"
Rear of frame to floor: Pass Side = 7-9/16"/Driver Side 8-3/8"
Rear Kick-up to floor: Pass Side = 12-11/16"/Driver Side 13"

My question is "Is this okay or should I remove the X-member and start over"? If someone wants to see the picture just give me your e-mail address and I'll e-mail it to you. I'm totally confused to whether this is okay or not. A friend said it would be okay but I'd have to shim it a lot.

Did the removal of the front crossmember cause this? If so then will putting a new one on straighten it out? Just trying to figure this out before I have it soda blasted and painted.

Thanks ahead of time for any and all help!!!

58n65

 

How level is your floor?

Metal tends to warp around when you weld it. Did you have the frame securely fastened in place when you welded it?
Did you tack weld the cross member at several places before the final welding?

To more accurately measure how much the frame is warped, use something like 4" x 4" or 6" x 6" wood blocks to support the frame at two points on the driver's side near the body mounts. Support the passenger side at one point about half way between the two body mount points. Use a carpenters 4' level and shim the driver side so that it is perfectly level. Then lay the level across the frame at the center point and level the frame from side to side by shimming just the passenger side. Now lay the level on the passenger side and see how level it is. Also check the frame from side to side at the front and rear.

Charles

 

Thanks Charles. Let me answer your questions:

"How level is your floor?" It's pretty level.

"Metal tends to warp around when you weld it. Did you have the frame securely fastened in place when you welded it?" Actually I didn't. Didn't even think about the metal warping while I welded it or I would have.

"Did you tack weld the cross member at several places before the final welding?" I tack welded it to hold it in place then I welded each section until it was complete. Maybe I should have welded a small section and then went to a different side (after the tack weld)....again it didn't cross my mind.

I have some 6" x 6" blocks so I'll test your recommendation this weekend....hopefully.

Thanks again for the help. I'm thinking more and more that I should start over....YIKES!!! Maybe I'll bolt the front crossmember back to see if that helps also.

58n65

 

Okay here's the new measurements:

Front of frame to floor: Pass Side = 14-11/16"/Driver Side 14-1/2"
Rear of frame to floor: Pass Side = 8-1/8"/Driver Side 9-3/8"
Rear Kick-up to floor: Pass Side = 17"/Driver Side 17-3/8"
Center of frame: Pass Side = 6-1/8"/Driver Side 6-1/8"

I only had to shim the front driver's side just a hair to get it level all the way around.

Thanks again for the help!!!

Dex.

 

Another thing....it looks like the rear part is the worse so could the rear crossmember be warped? One of the previous owners raced the car so the spring mounting plate was placed on the opposite side so I removed them and did some welding to the rear crossmember where there was some rusted through spots. Maybe I warped it??? Should I remove it totally to see if that's the problem?

 

My advice is to take it to a frame shop and give them the specs from the ST manual.