When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have started the Arizona Speed EFI conversion on my 63'. First thing is to plumb a fuel return line. I decided to put it in the fuel filler neck. I bent a 3/8" steel line to go down to the bottom of the tank so it doesn't cause any splash (and air bubbles) in the tank.
The filler neck is back on the tank with the return line plumbed in.
I used extreme pressure aeroquip 3/8" rubber line from the return tube in the filler neck, across the top of the tank, along the inside of the frame rail on the passenger side and out the hole in the rail in front of the back tire. I used steel line where it is exposed here.
I snaked the rubber line along the top of the frame rail beside the brake line. It will be well protected up there.
I installed a 10 micron Walbro filter for the pre-filtration prior to the electric pump.
I will be installing this high pressure Walbro in-line fuel pump at the other end of the steel line on top of the frame rail between where the battery sits and the firewall.
The EFI unit looks very good on there. You can't beat EFI for driveability.
From what I have read, electric fuel pumps do not like to pull the fuel a long distance, and should be placed close to the fuel tank. Maybe this one is different, but I would ask Arizona speed if you proposed mounting point is OK - trying to help you avoid any problems.
The fuel injection unit looks great and this is a thread that i will follow Are you installing one electric fuel pump on each line?
How far down in the tank did you put the teturn line? If you run the return line to far down in the tank do you think that it can disrupt the fuel level sender?
Is the filler neck made of steel?(i have a friend that is a master welder on both steel and aluminum)
Last edited by TheSaint; Oct 23, 2010 at 05:23 PM.
Hi Saint, yes I think these Arizona Speed units look the most like an original Ram jet. I will even be able to use the stock FI air cleaner.
You only need one fuel pump on the feed line. It needs to be high volume and supply a minimum of 42 psi.
The return line is bent to go way over to the far side of the tank (opposite side of the fuel float and pick-up) about 2 inches from the bottom. Hopefully I won't get any float interference. I posted a pic of it at the top.
Yes, the filler neck is made of steel and I'm certain the tube could be brazed in. I am a crappy welder so I opted to try JB Weld. It did a great job and seems to be solid. If it doesn't hold I can pull it back out and get it brazed.
The EFI unit looks very good on there. You can't beat EFI for driveability.
From what I have read, electric fuel pumps do not like to pull the fuel a long distance, and should be placed close to the fuel tank. Maybe this one is different, but I would ask Arizona speed if you proposed mounting point is OK - trying to help you avoid any problems.
I understood it was more important that the tank be higher than the pump so it can be gravity fed and will remain primed when the car is shut off however I will check it out. Thanks for the tip.
The O2 sensor and the knock sensor have been installed. I will have to leave off the chrome "V" plug wire cover on the drivers side to accommodate the knock sensor which screws into the water jacket plug.
Thanks for the post an I too will be following. Just one comment. You may only have the system mocked up in the pics but I would consider changing your hose clamps to the modern Fuel Injection style hose clamps designed for the higher fuel pressures developed with EFI. Good luck with the conversion!
The hose clamps in the picture are on the return feed line where the pressure is minimal. The pressure line (where you see the filter) is aeroquip push on fittings and hose that doesn't require hose clamps at all (although I put some on anyways).
Just a thought but if you put some kind of fuel filter on the return pipe you made that goes to the bottom of your tank it might be better than just the pipe?
Thinking of disrupt of the fuel level sender
If that unit was supplied with a delphi MEFI ECU, keep in mind that you can always change it out for an Accel or FAST, or Mortec ECU and wiring harness if the MEFI doesn't tune as well as you would like it to.
I under stand they have a MEFI 5 out now, which may be better than the 4b that I tossed in the trash due to its lack of true sequential capability, and failure to go into closed loop.
It did come with the MEFI 4b. I upgraded from the narrowband O2 sensor to the racepak wideband O2 sensor and definately want to run it in a closed loop. I will keep that in mind if I have problems.
I have mounted the fuse box, relays and ECU to this board. I will be attaching the board to the firewall way back under the fender across from the washer bottle. The two wires hanging down at the bottom go to ground and the wideband O2 sensor
This is the other end of the harness that hooks up to the MAP, IAC, Air temp, water temp, throttle position, knock sensor and the 8 injectors.
Must say its a clean look. Not a bunch of wires everywhere
Originally Posted by Gl*******
I have mounted the fuse box, relays and ECU to this board. I will be attaching the board to the firewall way back under the fender across from the washer bottle. The two wires hanging down at the bottom go to ground and the wideband O2 sensor
This is the other end of the harness that hooks up to the MAP, IAC, Air temp, water temp, throttle position, knock sensor and the 8 injectors.