My 327 Engine
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 32
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From: Brookings Oregon
My 327 Engine
Having trouble posting pictures but I'll work on it.
The 1965 Engine I asked about a week ago -- Thinking of trading it for a pair of ET III wheels. Trying to find out how original it is and I've come to the conclusion it's untouched & low mileage. No ridge at the top of the cylinders & they seem to have not been cut.
However the purchaser asked about the markings on the top of the pistons , there are none. He asked about .030 etc.. and a TRW or other part number.
I used a dial caliper & got exactly 4.00 and the pistons are cast on the underside of the top with the number (as best I can tell) 3795337 GM. This is the engine with the windage tray & filter canister & cast date of July 1965. It does have a hydraulic cam (I previously thought no cam was in the block)
The casting # ends in 714. Do these seem to be the original pistons? I've had the block since approx 1978-80.
Was there a 350 HP engine in 1965? I'll e-mail pictures so someone can post My E-mail is RPAdomitis@NWtec.com
Thanks
The 1965 Engine I asked about a week ago -- Thinking of trading it for a pair of ET III wheels. Trying to find out how original it is and I've come to the conclusion it's untouched & low mileage. No ridge at the top of the cylinders & they seem to have not been cut.
However the purchaser asked about the markings on the top of the pistons , there are none. He asked about .030 etc.. and a TRW or other part number.
I used a dial caliper & got exactly 4.00 and the pistons are cast on the underside of the top with the number (as best I can tell) 3795337 GM. This is the engine with the windage tray & filter canister & cast date of July 1965. It does have a hydraulic cam (I previously thought no cam was in the block)
The casting # ends in 714. Do these seem to be the original pistons? I've had the block since approx 1978-80.
Was there a 350 HP engine in 1965? I'll e-mail pictures so someone can post My E-mail is RPAdomitis@NWtec.com
Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
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From: Conroe Texas
I used a dial caliper & got exactly 4.00 and the pistons are cast on the underside of the top with the number (as best I can tell) 3795337 GM. This is the engine with the windage tray & filter canister & cast date of July 1965. It does have a hydraulic cam (I previously thought no cam was in the block)
The casting # ends in 714. Do these seem to be the original pistons? I've had the block since approx 1978-80.
Was there a 350 HP engine in 1965? I'll e-mail pictures so someone can post My E-mail is RPAdomitis@NWtec.com
Thanks
The casting # ends in 714. Do these seem to be the original pistons? I've had the block since approx 1978-80.
Was there a 350 HP engine in 1965? I'll e-mail pictures so someone can post My E-mail is RPAdomitis@NWtec.com
Thanks
This is one of the pistons out of my 65 350 horse car
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Looks like that block has frozen and cracked. Hard to tell from the photos though.
Pull a bearing insert and look for the date stamped on the back side of the shell.
Looks like a factory built SHP with the blue paint on the main caps and outside the block, yellow paint swipe on the crank. Whether it's original or not is of no consequence as everything there will have to be redone/replaced.
Pull a bearing insert and look for the date stamped on the back side of the shell.
Looks like a factory built SHP with the blue paint on the main caps and outside the block, yellow paint swipe on the crank. Whether it's original or not is of no consequence as everything there will have to be redone/replaced.
Last edited by MikeM; Oct 24, 2010 at 10:12 AM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 32
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From: Brookings Oregon
Doug & Mike M: regarding block looks cracked
Since I'm a new member here, is the cracked block kind of an initiation process/inside joke?
Otherwise
Where do you think it looks cracked? I'll wire brush it & check closely. I don't want to trade this engine & later find out it's bad.
Also whats the best way to check for cracks without taking it to a shop? SHP= special HP option?
Thanks
Otherwise
Where do you think it looks cracked? I'll wire brush it & check closely. I don't want to trade this engine & later find out it's bad.
Also whats the best way to check for cracks without taking it to a shop? SHP= special HP option?
Thanks
Last edited by 60 Gasser; Oct 24, 2010 at 02:19 PM. Reason: spelling
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
It hard to tell from the picture but that's what it looks like. Sometimes, when the block freezes and busts the block, that's right where you see a crack. Look on the outside of the block, same height.
Then again, maybe you're okay.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Brookings Oregon
No Cracks in the block
only oily lines-- even the outside is solid.
#2 the rod caps are ground with a slight concave radius. & each is numbered rod & cap by hand with one of those electronic etching tools. Looks like someone put some time into this engine. Does the concave cap possibly indicate a balance job?
Thanks again
#2 the rod caps are ground with a slight concave radius. & each is numbered rod & cap by hand with one of those electronic etching tools. Looks like someone put some time into this engine. Does the concave cap possibly indicate a balance job?
Thanks again
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From: peshastin wa.
I also have concerns about the possible cracked block that may be just be oil lines. Didgital camera's can make things look good and bad! Can someone smarter than I circle the lines in question and repost pic so 60 gasser can check and make sure we are looking at the same thing? Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
I also have concerns about the possible cracked block that may be just be oil lines. Didgital camera's can make things look good and bad! Can someone smarter than I circle the lines in question and repost pic so 60 gasser can check and make sure we are looking at the same thing? Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Greenville, Indiana
The other side is the same way plus what looks like a veritcal crack on each side between the center cylinders.
If that engine was run with a crack in it like what it looks like, steam could have cleaned the oil off above the crack, explaining the difference in the color of the surface????????
If it's cracked, shouldn't be hard to feel/see.
If that engine was run with a crack in it like what it looks like, steam could have cleaned the oil off above the crack, explaining the difference in the color of the surface????????
If it's cracked, shouldn't be hard to feel/see.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
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From: Dallas TX
The other side is the same way plus what looks like a veritcal crack on each side between the center cylinders.
If that engine was run with a crack in it like what it looks like, steam could have cleaned the oil off above the crack, explaining the difference in the color of the surface????????
If it's cracked, shouldn't be hard to feel/see.
If that engine was run with a crack in it like what it looks like, steam could have cleaned the oil off above the crack, explaining the difference in the color of the surface????????
If it's cracked, shouldn't be hard to feel/see.
Spend the $50 and have it magged and vatted to know for sure....
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Greenville, Indiana
I forgot to mention, the flywheel flange on the crankshaft doesn't appear to be 327 configuration. Appears to be more like the '67 302 shape. Hard to tell for sure from the camera angle.
The oil splash shield is suspect too.
The oil splash shield is suspect too.
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From: Washington Michigan
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 32
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From: Brookings Oregon
Crank Flywheel flange.
The crank in question in my 327 block has 2 cutouts and a locating pin. It's exactly the same configuration as the original crank/engine from my 66 327-300HP.
The stroke in this block is also 3.25" so to me it's a 327 crank not a 302
Am I incorrect with this conclusion? I always knew 283-302 cranks having a 3.00" stroke.
I also cleaned up the block with a brass brush & WD-40 and all the marks (looking like cracks) disappeared.
Putting this one to rest --- now getting the engine cleaned up.
Thanks for all of the insight since the last time I worked on a Chevy engine was 1978. This Forum will be one I frequent and provide my findings from this corner of Oregon
The stroke in this block is also 3.25" so to me it's a 327 crank not a 302
Am I incorrect with this conclusion? I always knew 283-302 cranks having a 3.00" stroke.
I also cleaned up the block with a brass brush & WD-40 and all the marks (looking like cracks) disappeared.
Putting this one to rest --- now getting the engine cleaned up.
Thanks for all of the insight since the last time I worked on a Chevy engine was 1978. This Forum will be one I frequent and provide my findings from this corner of Oregon