No Ground......
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,146
Army
Are you telling me that you:
a) Have +12V on both sides of a known good fuse for the heater, and,
b) Have +12V at the FAR end of the wire that goes to the fuse box...meaning the end of the wire that attaches to the heater component ?
If you have both of those conditions then, once again, run a long jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to the heater blower housing (or where ever its supposed to be grounded)....
You're on the home stretch now!
a) Have +12V on both sides of a known good fuse for the heater, and,
b) Have +12V at the FAR end of the wire that goes to the fuse box...meaning the end of the wire that attaches to the heater component ?
If you have both of those conditions then, once again, run a long jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to the heater blower housing (or where ever its supposed to be grounded)....
You're on the home stretch now!
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
The '58-'62's use a really flaky design for the heater blower ground; it grounds through the wire wrapping around the temp control cable from the temp valve to the ground screw on the back side of the console plate. Many folks just run a separate ground wire from one of the blower flange-to-heater case screws to a known good under-dash ground instead. 
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,606
Likes: 210
From: Nevada City Ca.
2015 C1 of Year
Connect a ground wire to the heater housing and run a hot wire to the heater hot wire ( if it works the switch is bad or again not grounded )
Make sure the heater housing is grounded before you do anything
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,606
Likes: 210
From: Nevada City Ca.
2015 C1 of Year
By pass the switch and if it runs the switch is connected wrong or screwed up.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Hartford Kentucky
The '58-'62's use a really flaky design for the heater blower ground; it grounds through the wire wrapping around the temp control cable from the temp valve to the ground screw on the back side of the console plate. Many folks just run a separate ground wire from one of the blower flange-to-heater case screws to a known good under-dash ground instead.
I really really don't think we would have got this taken care of if not for you guys on this forum.
Thanks again
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Pro
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 667
Likes: 7
From: Milpitas Calyfornua
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Hartford Kentucky
The '58-'62's use a really flaky design for the heater blower ground; it grounds through the wire wrapping around the temp control cable from the temp valve to the ground screw on the back side of the console plate. Many folks just run a separate ground wire from one of the blower flange-to-heater case screws to a known good under-dash ground instead.
When you speak of this ground wire......do people leave this......is this the only solution to fix this problem??
Thanks and to all a very "Happy New Year"
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,146
Army
You could always try to make the original (badly) designed ground work but why bother...its best just to leave the 'back up' ground in place and ensure proper blower motor operation. Many C1 owners have a similar problem with the fuel gauge ground and have to run an extra ground to the chassis from the sending unit to stabilize the gauge. (I did). That's just life with these old cars.
