Newly rebuilt everything, including distributor, carbs, etc. I converted the car back to 6 volts. It cold starts with the choke on within 4-6 seconds at most.

I have (to the best of my ability) syncronized the carbs. Floats are set about 1/2" down instead of 3/8" in the manual. I made sure the accelerator pumps have the fifth hole.

Timing is a tough call. I should have found TDC when the head was off and marked the harmonic balancer and installed a timing pointer. Looking for that little ball (highlighted) on the flywheel with a timing light is a joke. I did what Roy Braatz recommended which is to move the timing around until you find that sweet spot, and lock it down.

I used the plug wires that came in the Lectric Limited full car harness kit (is this a mistake?).

Problem #1. I can't get it to RPM under load without it missing and popping. It idles and drives under part throttle just fine. But it doesn't like much over 1/2 throttle.

Problem #2. Turn the key off and the carbs puke gas. I know there are needle and seat fixes, or you can modify the fuel pump to lower the pressure to under 7 pounds. This issue isn't bothering me as much as Problem #1 because I have the dual pot air cleaner that direct's the excess fuel.

Problem #3. Ammeter is below zero while it idles. When I rev it up the ammeter is showing almost minus 30 amps draw. When I turn on the headlights the ammeter pops back and is in the plus 1-3 amp territory. Turn the headlights off and it's back to minus 30 amps. I tried repolarizing the regulator since I store it with the battery disconnected but it did not change a thing. It didn't do this until the third day. Initially it acted fine.

Problem #1 has a feel like it is running out of gas. Also, when I snap the throttle it has a tendancy to backfire through the carbs which is usually a lean condition like the accelerator pumps aren't working or the ignition has incorrect timing. I looked through the NCRS articles and one person describes my problem exactly and says he cured it by replacing the "correct" plug wires with name brand new wires.

Problem #4 popped up last night while I was running the car in my shop. It overheated to about 220* while sitting there idling and puked antifreeze all over the floor. When it was cold I watched the temp gauge as it warmed up. It got to about 210 before the gauge dropped almost like the thermostat wasn't opening at 180* like it's supposed to. I rationalized the higher temp before the drop by saying it could be because the temp sending unit location on the head is just right of an exhaust port, which would show a lot more heat a lot faster than anywhere else in the engine.

Thanks in advance for any input from the members.

Randy

 

I cannot help with your carb issues. But here are a few general comments:

1. Your carbs should not puke gas. I had a puking problem, and tightening all the screws on the carbs solved the problem for me. You might have a different problem, but make sure to tighten all of the screws first.

2. A fuel pressure regulator pump probably won't fix the problem either. My 53 has a gauge that measures fuel pressure, and the pressure rarely goes about 5lbs (might hit 6lbs on hot days when I drive the car for a very long time, like an hour plus). I am on my second fuel pump, and both exhibit the same behavior. If you are getting more than 7lbs of pressure, you probably need a new fuel pump more than you need a regulator.

3. Sounds like your ammeter is hooked up backwards. I think the GM diagram has it backwards, so this is a common error. Your readings make sense to me if the hook up is backwards.

4. You should not be hitting 210 degrees. My 53 heats up until 180 and then stabilizes. My 54 did pretty much the same thing. I might see a slight increase before the thermostat kicks in, but nothing like 30 degrees. You have a problem somewhere.

5. I have heard mixed things about reproduction spark plug wires. The key things is this - you need no resistance spark plug wires. Modern spark plug wires have resistance to reduce radio static, but those wires don't work very well with 6 volt cars. You can find no resistance wires for 6 cylinder cars pretty easily - I think even in auto parts stores.

Hope this helps,

Russ

 

Try advancing your timing.

Timing too retarded will lead to running hot, and lack of "zip" when you hit the throttle.

Also, most if not all of the old diagrams for the Ammeter show the wiring backwards. Just switch the leads on the back.

Here's another thought....

when you rebuilt the carbs, did you use the correct Corvette kits? You should have the spring loaded needle valve, and the carb "lid" gasket that doesn't block off the idle circuit holes.

Chuck

 

Check the vacuum advance bracket that is on the distributor shaft. These brackets can bind up if not properly adjusted and cause advance to be inhibited with throttle. The advance bracket is held to the distributor shaft through a clamp with a screw. You can adjust the distributor position and the clamp position independently.

 

Thanks, guys.

Chuck Smith did the carbs a while back. I removed the float bowl covers and everything is as it should be as I mentioned.

The distributor struggles to move back and forth on the vacuum advance. It seems to stick about 1/2 advanced. I'll address that Saturday.

The schematic I used was the big laminated one supplied by Lectric Limited. Makes sense that the ammeter hook up could be backwards based on how the meter is operating.

I have a restored original 6V coil. Repro plug wires and restored coils might be good for judging but not for performance?? I picked up a Belden plug wire kit at NAPA today. The repro wires from Lectric Limited ohmed out at 6-7 ohms per foot while the Beldens are about 2 ohms per foot. I might go back and grab a new coil, too, just for fun.

When I picked up the wire set I got a new 180* thermostat, too. The one that's in it is a 180*, but it seems to be a little lethargic when it comes to opening on time based on what I saw on the gauge. We'll see.

Randy