When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Oh, didja happen to notice in the picture of the left rear wheel/tire that the tire is flat spotted? Someone misjudged their braking point as they approached corner entry!
Jim
Yes, either flat spotted or it sat on that spot for awhile without air. Also, interesting way the spinner is retained on the hub.
Yes, either flat spotted or it sat on that spot for awhile without air. Also, interesting way the spinner is retained on the hub.
Ed
The KO adapters on that car are typical of what Halibrand produced in the '90s. Their presence on that car testify to it definitely being an early D&D.
Our D&D prototype came with an identical set of adapters.
They don't have a historically accurate appearance so I designed a set of replacements which match the look of the original GS hubs pretty closely.
Might be OK for 1/8th mile racing, but you couldn't get me to drive it. Definitely not one to watch from the front row of the grandstands either.....because it might fly over and give you a better view than you'd want.
I have not found my serial number. The frame and body parts were bought by AutoworksCT and assembled in 1997. Here's the oldest picture I have of the Studio1 frame.
I just measured the tie rods and they are about a 1/2 inch different. I don't think that is the offset you are talking about - right? The Appleton rack mounting holes are offset about 1.5 inches to the pass side but the frame holes are also.
I just measured the tie rods and they are about a 1/2 inch different. I don't think that is the offset you are talking about - right? The Appleton rack mounting holes are offset about 1.5 inches to the pass side but the frame holes are also.
I'm surprised the Appleton racks aren't centered. That's just wrong.
The GM rack on our prototype (and probably on all the low VIN D&Ds) was offset 3/4" to the passenger side. As a result, the tie rods differed in length by 1-1/2". There was horrible bump steer, especially on the passenger side.
Our D&D now has a custom Woodward power assisted rack engineered by Dick Guldstrand and installed at his shop. What a difference; the car is a joy to drive.
I'm surprised the Appleton racks aren't centered. That's just wrong.
Jim
The offset is in the mounting holes on the Appleton rack. Since the tierods are only a 1/2 inch different in length I don't think it's a killer - not perfect, but I don't feel it.
I just had the Appleton rack fixed, broken PS torque arm and blown assist piston seal, and it's sitting here next to me. The assy came back without a boot on the assist piston shaft. Hoping to get it in for the Sebring SVRA next weekend. I don't have the safety equipment to race but hope to get on the track for some parade laps.
LSX's are known to loose a lot of power from hot air and I wonder why so many running them are choosing to put the air intake/filter usually between the radiator and the engine where it will only suck hot air and therefore loose power. Maybe people with all the retrofitted LSX motors are just taking them to shows and such and not really finding out their performance limits.
I always push my cars hard, so I wanted to make sure that cool air is available at all times.
Here's an early mock up. Very tricky to get it all lined up, so it will fit in side the hood bulge yet not touch anything and clear the hood structure when opening and closing the hood...
I opted to do the sidepipes out of 3.5" tube, I was first going with 4" but then decided against it after few mock ups. I'm sure these will be big enough for the LS3... Home made mufflers inside of course. Sound clips to follow.
Both the intake and the sidepipes will be coated to match the rest of the cars theme.
I have been following these Porsche wheels from how the drawing process to the finished product and think these wheels will look good on a Grand Sport
I think these wheels would look great on a Grand Sport(they can make the wheels with the Corvette bolt pattern)so that is why i post these pictures
In 15 x 7, 8, 9, 10 and 15. You can have them in 16 and 17" as well i think
I posted a couple of pics of an old 911 so you can see how the wide rears are looking good
The close up of the rear wheel to the right is 15 X 9
The white 911 have 15 x 8 front and 15 x 10 rear
It's been one crazy winter at work, absolutely no time to work on the cars at all. i'm hoping that i can finally finish the GS for the summer and start the body work on the 54 after that.
Looking good!. Please keep the pics coming.
Finally had s couple hours to install my new rear shocks. I increased the spring rate to 275 lbs from the original 250. I still don't have the adjustments dialed in where they need to be, but that'll happen soon.
82° here Saturday afternoon, and 19° yesterday afternoon, so I got in some good driving Saturday, but had to be content to just look at the car yesterday. My gumball Toyo's don't give good traction when the temps are under 65°......
Looking good!. Please keep the pics coming.
Finally had s couple hours to install my new rear shocks. I increased the spring rate to 275 lbs from the original 250. I still don't have the adjustments dialed in where they need to be, but that'll happen soon.
82° here Saturday afternoon, and 19° yesterday afternoon, so I got in some good driving Saturday, but had to be content to just look at the car yesterday. My gumball Toyo's don't give good traction when the temps are under 65°......
Well it's 8.5 degrees here now. Roads are covered with salt and both GS's have been garage bound for almost 3 months. At least you get a chance now and then to exercise your GS ----- ken
Been awhile since I have posted, but I sure have enjoyed following the Grand Sport thread.
Here a couple pics and a few lessons I got from my first LS install. I started with a 40000 mile LS6 and T56 out of a 2005 CTSV.
I wanted to use it complete but the CTSV has a 2 piece drive shaft and the trans has a solid drive flange where the slip yoke goes, so instead of spending 1800 having it converted I sold it for 1800 on ebay and used a Tremec 5 speed I already owned.
Next problem the CTSV uses a 2 piece flywheel along with the clutch weighing over 75 lbs., so that also was sold off.
[IMG][/IMG]
I tried to keep the budget under control, but it doesn't take long to get out of hand. I used Kwik Performance for the accessory brackets. Simple and affordable at 500 for both sides.
[IMG][/IMG]
It has been so long since I have posted pics, I am going to stop and see if they are coming through.
Jeff
Last edited by silverslashstreak; 03-04-2014 at 10:02 PM.
After buying some nice motor mount brackets that didn't fit we made some out of 1/4 inch steel for a couple bucks.
[IMG][/IMG]
I decided on Dewitts LS radiator with twin fans and fan controls which have worked out perfectly.
Next I found a early batwing Corvette oil pan which I have read is much better for high G corning using the LS engines.
[IMG][/IMG]
Next Street and Performance built us a set of very nice custom headers with the added challenge of clearing the bat wing oil pan and motor mounts.
[IMG][/IMG]
I tried to use as many factory parts as possible. The factory plug wires with a little polishing.
[IMG][/IMG]
Hot Wire, another company located here in our home town handled the wiring harness and flashed the computer.
This being my first LS, imagine my surprise when on the second crank of the key she fired right up, idles nicely and runs like a scalded dog. Here is the finished product.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
This LS is so enjoyable, I am currently looking for another one for my SWC.
02-21-2014, 04:43 PM
I hear you Jim. 
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG] 
[/IMG] 
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG] 
[/IMG]
[/IMG] 
[/IMG] 
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG] 
[/IMG]