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I am getting ready to put a 383 in my '65 vert - basically similar to a ZZ383 only with 10.3:1 compression. I'm trying to decide on an ignition system and I can't see spending a bunch of money for a CD setup because I don't really think I need it for a 6500 rpm engine.
Rather than go with a new distributor, I was thinking of going with the Pertronix Ignitor III setup including their coil in my original 327 distro. I figured this would get me up to a higher voltage and should be adequate.
Anyone running this setup or have any thoughts on how to go?
Sorry, forgot to mention that I'm trying to keep it all under the original shielding....
TIA
Greg
I'm sure it will be 'adequate' with an Ignitor III. Mine fits under my C1 shielding with no problem and this version includes a rev limiter - I just bought the whole Pertronix SBC 'drop-in' billet distributor with vacuum advance. They are like $220 from Jegs.
I've got the Pertronix Ignitor III in my car, but I have had issues with their Ignitor III oil filled coils (2 have had open secondary windings and leaked oil). I'm running a stock coil at the moment. Several have suggested the Pertronix Epoxy Filled coil.
Ken and SUBFIXER, are you running the stock coil at 12V or with the ballast resistor still in the circuit to the coil +? I know that the + side of the pertronix unit in the dist bypasses the ballast resistor, but how are you running your coil?
Ken and SUBFIXER, are you running the stock coil at 12V or with the ballast resistor still in the circuit to the coil +? I know that the + side of the pertronix unit in the dist bypasses the ballast resistor, but how are you running your coil?
If you run the stock coil without the ballast resistor in the (+) feed circuit, the coil will eventually fry.
I run full 12V everywhere with the ballast bypassed - that means you need a low ohm coil - like 0.6 or 0.3 ohm like the FlameThrower series. Unlike the Pertronix I and II, the III requires a full 12V for proper operation...
Ken and SUBFIXER, are you running the stock coil at 12V or with the ballast resistor still in the circuit to the coil +? I know that the + side of the pertronix unit in the dist bypasses the ballast resistor, but how are you running your coil?
I am running the Petronix II. No changes to the stock coil.
Ken and SUBFIXER, are you running the stock coil at 12V or with the ballast resistor still in the circuit to the coil +? I know that the + side of the pertronix unit in the dist bypasses the ballast resistor, but how are you running your coil?
I have the ballast bypassed. Full 12v to the coil. No problems yet. Been running it like that for a year now.
You out of KB? 728 or 729? I'm on my way there today.
Last edited by Subfixer; Jan 23, 2011 at 03:12 PM.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by JohnZ
If you run the stock coil without the ballast resistor in the (+) feed circuit, the coil will eventually fry.
It's my understanding that one of the major changes to the III version is adaptive dwell (ala 1975 HEI). Retaining the ballast resistor defeats the performance enhancement of adaptive dwell.
I've been running my stock '69 coil without a ballast resistance for the past 27 years with no problems or concerns. The reason: Adaptive dwell in the HEI module I wired into the circuit.
Last edited by 69427; Jan 23, 2011 at 09:22 PM.
Reason: Spelling correction.
I have the ballast bypassed. Full 12v to the coil. No problems yet. Been running it like that for a year now.
You out of KB? 728 or 729? I'm on my way there today.
I would suggest that you optimize the ignition map of your distributor, adjust the drive gear end play and chose an appropriate VAC for your new engine. Its more important that the fire is lit at the precise time than the strength of the spark.
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