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Rex, it almost certainly depends on how the block was made and how it came to be configured for dry sump.
I see a lot of blocks (mostly Donovan) that are wet sump blocks that have a pipe plug in the oil passage of the rear main cap. To convert these back to wet sump, remove the plug and install a pump.
What I'm not sure about is how the oil passages are drilled on blocks that leave the factory configured for dry sumps. For sure, the rear main cap is undrilled and not machined for mounting a pump. But the block itself? I dunno.
The one thing that would concern me about using a Rodeck or Donovan block on the street would be main bearing clearances. These blocks grow enough to change main bearing clearance by up to .001 as they warm up. So, to compensate, the clearances are set up to be slightly on the tight side.
When very cold, the clearances are very small..... possibly .0015 or so. I'd want to warm the block before lighting it off.
My family has sprint car background and you should just stay with dry sump application on that rodeck based on memory! I can't remember how one could be modified to go wet sump, but never thought that one out. Anythings possible, but I am doubtful. The clearances depending on crank were normally set tighter on aluminum block, but that can be changed or adjusted with some dollars spent. I would run at least a 4340 crank or a better billet piece which would flex less. Maybe preheater on the oil pan like the sprint cars and GTP guys. With tight clearances, you what to start and run to a low stable steady rpm till warm, before wamping on it. I just made up the term wamping!
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Turtlevette picked up one of those blocks a while back. I recall him discussing what to do with the oiling arrangement. He might have some information from his investigation into using this block in a street machine.