1962 starting problem
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 111
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From: Central Calif. coast Ca
1962 starting problem
For many years I've learned much and have been entertained by lurking here. Now I'm asking for advice. In the 18 years I've owned it my '62 340 hp car has never failed to start. Last time I drove it 2 or 3 weeks ago it started and ran fine. Today it will fire as usual but as soon as I release the key from the start to the run position it dies as if it was turned off. Obviously an electrical problem. All the wires to the ign. switch seem tight. Suddenly bad ignition switch? Loose wire somewhere? Any ideas where I should look first? Car is all stock and mostly original including the dual point distributor.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,606
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From: Nevada City Ca.
2015 C1 of Year
For many years I've learned much and have been entertained by lurking here. Now I'm asking for advice. In the 18 years I've owned it my '62 340 hp car has never failed to start. Last time I drove it 2 or 3 weeks ago it started and ran fine. Today it will fire as usual but as soon as I release the key from the start to the run position it dies as if it was turned off. Obviously an electrical problem. All the wires to the ign. switch seem tight. Suddenly bad ignition switch? Loose wire somewhere? Any ideas where I should look first? Car is all stock and mostly original including the dual point distributor.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,343
Likes: 668
From: Beverly Hills (Pine Ridge) Florida
There is a wire and circuit that bypasses the ballast resistor, when starting.
As soon as the ignition switch is released to the run position, current then goes through the ballast resistor.
If the ignition switch is faulty (open), the wiring to / from the resistor not connected correctly, or the ballast resistor open, it will cause this failure.
Check the wiring connections first, and then break out the voltmeter if something obvious does not show up.
Plasticman
PS: Don & Roy were faster typers.........
As soon as the ignition switch is released to the run position, current then goes through the ballast resistor.
If the ignition switch is faulty (open), the wiring to / from the resistor not connected correctly, or the ballast resistor open, it will cause this failure.
Check the wiring connections first, and then break out the voltmeter if something obvious does not show up.
Plasticman
PS: Don & Roy were faster typers.........
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 111
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From: Central Calif. coast Ca
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 122
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ballast resister
When the engine is running, you can get by with a lot less current at the points. That's the purpose of the ballast resistor. If the points were to receive full battery current/voltage at all times, they would only last a few hundred miles before needing replacement.
At the time of cranking (when the starter is operating), a separate wire gives the points the full 12 volts, bypassing the ballast resistor. When you release the key from "start" to "on", all the power to the points now has to flow thru the ballast resistor, preserving the points. If the BR fails, it fails "open" causing the engine to shut down....meaning no juice gets to the points"
At the time of cranking (when the starter is operating), a separate wire gives the points the full 12 volts, bypassing the ballast resistor. When you release the key from "start" to "on", all the power to the points now has to flow thru the ballast resistor, preserving the points. If the BR fails, it fails "open" causing the engine to shut down....meaning no juice gets to the points"
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Camp Verde AZ
C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
2017 C1 of Year Finalist
Back in the day, one of those would be evidence of car theft intent. 
At least if it was in the pocket of your leather jacket, along with a 1/2" open end wrench to short the starter solenoid terminals.
Ah, the good old days, 30 seconds total (if you were slow) with a coat hanger or popsicle stick to open the door, and the wrench and jumper to hotwire and start and drive off the car.
Doug
At least if it was in the pocket of your leather jacket, along with a 1/2" open end wrench to short the starter solenoid terminals.
Ah, the good old days, 30 seconds total (if you were slow) with a coat hanger or popsicle stick to open the door, and the wrench and jumper to hotwire and start and drive off the car.
Doug
