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I read a thread about fuseable link to protect wiring system..
I am trying to figure out where to put it and the spec that describes the link...Any body have a clue??
Application 67 427..
As Jerry said, you should have them already on your car. There should be two of them coming off of the horn relay, and two more down at the starter solenoid. You can fuse link any wire. The general rule of thumb is two wire sizes smaller than the wire that you are fusing. ie: If you want to add a fuse link to a 12 gauge wire, you would put a 5 or 6 inch piece of 16 gauge at the source side. Wire is measured in size "by two" so 12, 14, 18, etc., and the higher the number, the smaller the wire size. You can purchase fuse wire by the spool, or by the piece from an auto parts house, or you can use piece of regular stranded wire (the covering is the only difference). Hope this helps.
As Jerry said, you should have them already on your car. There should be two of them coming off of the horn relay, and two more down at the starter solenoid. You can fuse link any wire. The general rule of thumb is two wire sizes smaller than the wire that you are fusing. ie: If you want to add a fuse link to a 12 gauge wire, you would put a 5 or 6 inch piece of 16 gauge at the source side. Wire is measured in size "by two" so 12, 14, 18, etc., and the higher the number, the smaller the wire size. You can purchase fuse wire by the spool, or by the piece from an auto parts house, or you can use piece of regular stranded wire (the covering is the only difference). Hope this helps.
You can purchase fuse wire by the spool, or by the piece from an auto parts house, or you can use piece of regular stranded wire (the covering is the only difference). Hope this helps.
Mike,
You are right about the covering being different and this difference is significant. Here is a quote from the Belden wire catalog that describes that difference:
Per S.A.E. specs, fusible link wire must be made out of high
temperature, cross-linked polyethylene. In a dead short situation, this
high temperature jacket will remain intact while the conductor will heat up
and separate.
Normal wiring insulation will not remain intact and for this reason, standard automotive wire should not be used.
More cautionary information from the Belden catalog:
Q. What type of terminals should be used for fusible links?
A. Insulated butt connectors that are equal to the current load of the
circuit being protected should be used. These butt connectors should be
covered with heat shrink material to contain the heat generated by current
overloads.
"Solid Seal" and/or "Crimp and Seal" heat shrink butt connector terminals
are ideal for these terminations.
***Failure to use terminals with heat shrink material could allow heat to
escape and could prevent or slow down the heating up and breakdown of the
conductor.****
There is one other caution worth noting:
"Fusible links are designed as "slow burn" protection against a
catastrophic electrical overload. Fusible links are not to be used to
replace a fuse or circuit breaker. They must be used with a fuse or
circuit breaker."
You are right about the covering being different and this difference is significant. Here is a quote from the Belden wire catalog that describes that difference:
Normal wiring insulation will not remain intact and for this reason, standard automotive wire should not be used.
More cautionary information from the Belden catalog:
Jim
Some of that is hype or hope. One of the resto wiring companies (MAD?) put up pics of fusible links blowing in a dark room, and the sparks were amazing. They did it to remind us to watch for positioning near fuel lines that can be broken in a wreck that shorts the wiring at the same time.