Bonding front end
Thread Starter
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1
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Bonding front end
I have the body off my 66 roadster & have decided I need to remove the front end to address some windshield frame issues. I'm looking for some advice on what to use to rebond the front end. I'm thinking about using lord fusor 127ez. I like the fact that it gives you some work time & will be mixed right. Even though it is a little pricy. Anyone out there with experience with this product? How many tubes will it take? Any suggestion on other products? Thanks. Rick.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 655
Likes: 12
From: Texas
I used a 3M product. I did hear of someone having a problem with Lord Fusor. Not sure of my 3M # but it was Black and gave me about 90 minutes to work. Very nice and yes expensive. I think it was $30.00/tube. Buy more than enough and you can return what you don't use. You may be able to borrow the tube gun from your supplier.
Call your local autobody supply store and they should be able to get you what you need.
DG
Call your local autobody supply store and they should be able to get you what you need.
DG
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: "You may all go to Hell- and I will go to Texas- Davy Crockett
St. Jude Donor '12
I used a 3M product. I did hear of someone having a problem with Lord Fusor. Not sure of my 3M # but it was Black and gave me about 90 minutes to work. Very nice and yes expensive. I think it was $30.00/tube. Buy more than enough and you can return what you don't use. You may be able to borrow the tube gun from your supplier.
Call your local autobody supply store and they should be able to get you what you need.
DG
Call your local autobody supply store and they should be able to get you what you need.
DG
Last edited by vettsplit 63; Mar 7, 2011 at 06:19 PM. Reason: wrd
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,317
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From: Ocala FL
Out of curiosity, has anyone just used fiberglass and resin mixed a little cool?
I assume you are bonding a full front clip, so the only bonding surfaces are around the windshield, the fresh air plenum, and down the door pillars. If you have the front of the clip supported, and the rear sitting a few inches above, you should have more than enough time to lay out several strips of wet fiberglass and drop the clip into place before it begins to gel.
I assume you are bonding a full front clip, so the only bonding surfaces are around the windshield, the fresh air plenum, and down the door pillars. If you have the front of the clip supported, and the rear sitting a few inches above, you should have more than enough time to lay out several strips of wet fiberglass and drop the clip into place before it begins to gel.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 1,283
From: Horsham Pa
C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Have you removed the front? Are you going to reuse it, or buy new? That will take some real patience to remove it and not hurt the car and not hurt the front, also, why not put it back on the way it was, buy a gallon of bonding material mix it up and put it on, about $50.00
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 1,283
From: Horsham Pa
C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Out of curiosity, has anyone just used fiberglass and resin mixed a little cool?
I assume you are bonding a full front clip, so the only bonding surfaces are around the windshield, the fresh air plenum, and down the door pillars. If you have the front of the clip supported, and the rear sitting a few inches above, you should have more than enough time to lay out several strips of wet fiberglass and drop the clip into place before it begins to gel.
I assume you are bonding a full front clip, so the only bonding surfaces are around the windshield, the fresh air plenum, and down the door pillars. If you have the front of the clip supported, and the rear sitting a few inches above, you should have more than enough time to lay out several strips of wet fiberglass and drop the clip into place before it begins to gel.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,693
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From: Central Arkansas
You need something with some body (stiffness) so that it won't slump out. I'm building a Cobra replica where the body actually bonds to the frame and used a two-part marine epoxy at the suggestion of the manufactuer. Although it seemed pretty thick in separate parts, when mixed together it became somewhat thinner and and I had to keep after it for an hour or so, to keep it in the joint until it started to stiffen. And then I had to go back and fill a few areas. Dan
Le Mans Master
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From: Plano IL
2026 Corvette of the Year Winner - Unmodified
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I used Glasin
I rave about it
I have bonded several front ends on - nice thing--- - it oozed out and can be made to look like OE after its painted
I also have used 3m's 4240 and 4230
It depends on what you want it to look like after the repair and how much working time do you have.
the squeeze out like 3m is a little thin - you have to let it set for a minute or so
just using resin is too thin....
I rave about it
I have bonded several front ends on - nice thing--- - it oozed out and can be made to look like OE after its painted
I also have used 3m's 4240 and 4230
It depends on what you want it to look like after the repair and how much working time do you have.
the squeeze out like 3m is a little thin - you have to let it set for a minute or so
just using resin is too thin....
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Racer
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Bonding Adhesive
I believe the 3M product Vettsplit is referring to is 8115. I've used it several times & was very pleased with the results. As he said there's a 90 minute work window & does that extra time releave ALOT of stress.
Yes, it is about 30.00 for one setup of epoxy & activator. The deluxe applicator gun used to be about 325. but I hear the price is somewhat less now.
There is a generic gun for about 50. that works OK, not as smooth, but it does the job.(Some autopaint shops will lend out the applicator.)
Good Luck! Bob L.
Yes, it is about 30.00 for one setup of epoxy & activator. The deluxe applicator gun used to be about 325. but I hear the price is somewhat less now.
There is a generic gun for about 50. that works OK, not as smooth, but it does the job.(Some autopaint shops will lend out the applicator.)
Good Luck! Bob L.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,934
Likes: 657
From: Norwalk ohio
2019 Corvette of the Year Winner
St. Jude Donor '15
You need something with some body (stiffness) so that it won't slump out. I'm building a Cobra replica where the body actually bonds to the frame and used a two-part marine epoxy at the suggestion of the manufactuer. Although it seemed pretty thick in separate parts, when mixed together it became somewhat thinner and and I had to keep after it for an hour or so, to keep it in the joint until it started to stiffen. And then I had to go back and fill a few areas. Dan
This is what I used to tub my '63swc along with carbon fiber....this stuff and carbon fiber in layers is one stiff and tough hombre.
the 404 high density adds body to the epoxy mix and helps it to hold its place on slopes......
carbon fiber tape....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,934
Likes: 657
From: Norwalk ohio
2019 Corvette of the Year Winner
St. Jude Donor '15
I believe the 3M product Vettsplit is referring to is 8115. I've used it several times & was very pleased with the results. As he said there's a 90 minute work window & does that extra time releave ALOT of stress.
Yes, it is about 30.00 for one setup of epoxy & activator. The deluxe applicator gun used to be about 325. but I hear the price is somewhat less now.
There is a generic gun for about 50. that works OK, not as smooth, but it does the job.(Some autopaint shops will lend out the applicator.)
Good Luck! Bob L.
Yes, it is about 30.00 for one setup of epoxy & activator. The deluxe applicator gun used to be about 325. but I hear the price is somewhat less now.
There is a generic gun for about 50. that works OK, not as smooth, but it does the job.(Some autopaint shops will lend out the applicator.)
Good Luck! Bob L.
$63 for the dispense gun...I have one just like it and it works just fine....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
The shop that is doing my '63 uses Fusor all of the time and has had no complaints about it. It's probably best to have three tubes available when you start the installation. It's not something you want to run out of before finishing the job. Most vendors will let you return a tube that has not been opened. If you do have some left over, just stick it in the refrigerator until you need it and it will last a good while. I must tell you, you can find a awful lot of uses for this stuff, it's incredibly versatile.
Our shop has a pneumatic gun for application which makes it a lot easier. The manual guns will wear your hands out quickly. Some vendors will even rent you a pneumatic gun to do the job. If you do go that route, it's worth looking into.
Good luck with what ever method you decide to use... GUSTO
Our shop has a pneumatic gun for application which makes it a lot easier. The manual guns will wear your hands out quickly. Some vendors will even rent you a pneumatic gun to do the job. If you do go that route, it's worth looking into.
Good luck with what ever method you decide to use... GUSTO
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 619
From: northern CA
I used the Fusor 127ez on some recent panel (4) and bonding strip (2) replacement. This stuff holds real GOOD. Work time is roughly 60 minutes - more than enough time to get things just so. .. I don't think you would be disappointed if you decide to go with it.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,500
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From: East Central Florida
I've used the 3M 8115/8116 products and I'll never go back to anything else. The extended work time is ideal stress relief. 90 minute work time to give plenty of time to fixture up additional supports and fixtures to get the best results. You can bake it at elevated temperatures or localize specific areas with a heat gun for full cure in around 15 minutes.
Recently put a nose on a '59. My way of doing it is explained on my website. It shows how I removed the old one and attached the new one-piece.
Rich
http://home.comcast.net/~richmz/site/?/page/1959_Corvette_Restoration_Project_-_Part_2/
or for Firefox, Flock or other "unsupported" browsers....
http://home.comcast.net/~richmz then click on
1959 Corvette Restoration Project - Part 2
Recently put a nose on a '59. My way of doing it is explained on my website. It shows how I removed the old one and attached the new one-piece.
Rich
http://home.comcast.net/~richmz/site/?/page/1959_Corvette_Restoration_Project_-_Part_2/
or for Firefox, Flock or other "unsupported" browsers....
http://home.comcast.net/~richmz then click on
1959 Corvette Restoration Project - Part 2
Last edited by rich5962; Mar 8, 2011 at 05:41 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,934
Likes: 657
From: Norwalk ohio
2019 Corvette of the Year Winner
St. Jude Donor '15
I've used the 3M 8115/8116 products and I'll never go back to anything else. The extended work time is ideal stress relief. 90 minute work time to give plenty of time to fixture up additional supports and fixtures to get the best results. You can bake it at elevated temperatures or localize specific areas with a heat gun for full cure in around 15 minutes.
Recently put a nose on a '59. My way of doing it is explained on my website. It shows how I removed the old one and attached the new one-piece.
Rich
http://home.comcast.net/~richmz/site/?/page/1959_Corvette_Restoration_Project_-_Part_2/
or for Firefox, Flock or other "unsupported" browsers....
http://home.comcast.net/~richmz then click on
1959 Corvette Restoration Project - Part 2
Recently put a nose on a '59. My way of doing it is explained on my website. It shows how I removed the old one and attached the new one-piece.
Rich
http://home.comcast.net/~richmz/site/?/page/1959_Corvette_Restoration_Project_-_Part_2/
or for Firefox, Flock or other "unsupported" browsers....
http://home.comcast.net/~richmz then click on
1959 Corvette Restoration Project - Part 2
