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How is the durability of the 327 and remainder of the C2 standard drivetrain? Are there undo-able things I can change to strengthen it? I've begun to search for a 63 SWC and am trying to decide if I want to go the numbers matching route. I would like to occasionally gently auto-x the car but don't want to shell the motor or something irreplaceable when I screw up. Thanks in advance for the insight.
If the car is solid to begin with, the car is reliable and impressive. Probably the weak link are the half shafts but if they've been relaced or serviced regularly, should stand up to pretty much what you can throw at it.
Now if you start to heavily mod it with engine upgrades, sticky tires, etc. all bets are off.
The rods used in '63-vintage 327s are, by reputation, not as durable as later small journal rods. In light of this and when you consider the fatigue life of highly stressed engine components, you might want to freshen the engine with a set of new rods.
As the original owner of a 63 swc with 90,000 original miles along with a 340 hp 4.11 rear I have to disagree with Jims statement regarding engine durability (lack of same). After many miles at 80 mph and reasonable care, engine is all original, uses no oil (small pan gasket leak original 48 years) Full power standard points. Never stranded on highway or street. One flat tire. Regards,Abe G
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I sure wouldn't want to take a numbers matching SWC autocrossing. You have to decide what you want to do for fun with the car. Cruising, it will give you years of fun. Racing an almost 50 year old car with bias tires and drum brakes, you're asking for trouble and $$$ repairs.
Welcome to the CF. A '63 SWC is a special car. If it's complete, unmodified and correct, I wouldn't abuse it! If you find a car, '63 or other and it does not have it orig drive train, I think you can play with it by autocrossing, but expect things to go south now and then. If a non-original motor is in the car and you don't know the history on it, it would be nothing more than rolling dice when autocrossing Dennis
Last edited by Bluestripe67; Mar 9, 2011 at 01:58 PM.
I didn't know you could "gently" autocross a car....
Anyway, regardless of year, make and model of car, if you are going to take a car to it's limits, (which is usually the case when you are racing against a clock), breakage sometimes occurs. That's why they call them "limits". Nothing to fear, just part of the deal. There is nothing on a mid-year that is particularly prone to breakage when maintained in a reasonable manner. However, if you start "abusing" parts, you can expect more than occasional failures. Please note that I am not in any way implying that driving these cars hard is in any way "abuse". These were and are still, "performance" cars, and are capable of and meant to be driven in a "performance" manner IMHO. However, particularly when you begin modifying the car, you will expose the next weakest link after upgrading a part or system with a high(er) performance replacement. It's all about realistic expectations, making good decisions and understanding that unless you are going all out, there will be some compromises. Just drive to your personal limits or that of the car and enjoy it for what it is...
As the original owner of a 63 swc with 90,000 original miles along with a 340 hp 4.11 rear I have to disagree with Jims statement regarding engine durability (lack of same). After many miles at 80 mph and reasonable care, engine is all original, uses no oil (small pan gasket leak original 48 years) Full power standard points. Never stranded on highway or street. One flat tire. Regards,Abe G
And I got 113,000 miles out of the original 327 in my '63 coupe. Our two data points prove only that our two cars lived long, failure free lives. Little else.
If the early 327 rods were fine as-is, the design would not have been revised:
If I was planning to do any competition driving, and particularly if the engine in my car was original to the car, I'd beef up the rods, at a minimum.
But that's just me. I tend to believe that you can't win if you don't finish.
Those early 327 rods were the same as what they used for 283. Maybe not much wrong with that when they were new and not abused. I only knew of a couple 327's that scattered because of rod failure but both of them were in drag engines run around 8000 rpm. But that was before millions of cycles on them.
If I was building another 327, I'd use the '66 rods just for a little safety margin. Those rods are in short supply as some major engine rebuilders use the late rods in bread/butter engines.
If you hammer on the car hard enough, you will break things...fact of life. If you intend to compete in the car buy a non numbers car, or remove the drivetrain and install heavy duty stuff.
If you hammer on the car hard enough, you will break things...fact of life. If you intend to compete in the car buy a non numbers car, or remove the drivetrain and install heavy duty stuff.
Some people can ****** and grab and tear up more in five minutes than somebody that is smooth and never tears up anything. Same car, different results.
Some people can ****** and grab and tear up more in five minutes than somebody that is smooth and never tears up anything. Same car, different results.
I didn't know you could "gently" autocross a car....
I autocrossed a nice (REALLY, nice) '66 Mustang Fastback with a Shelby-ized suspension in the '90s. Once you are out there running through the cones (or whatever) and your blood is up "gentle" goes out the window. I broke an upper control arm bolt clean off on one run and and broke off a sway bar link on another. Other contestants thought I was crazy running with such a sweet ride - looking back - they were right!
As far as durability - the early small block Chevy's are pretty darn phenomenal. I had the throttle linkage stick in the ignition shielding a month after I got my '61 and it buried the tach (redlined at 6,200RPM)...still driving that 283 4 years later.