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Solid or Hydraulic?

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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 03:36 PM
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Default Solid or Hydraulic?

Hi
I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild on my 283 standard and will put in a new standard Cam and have the question "should I choose solid or hydraulic lifters( now it's solid) and if I choose hydr. do I have to buy new Engine push rods or is the Rods the same to these two types of Lifters?It's a 1959,C1 and its not for race just cruising

Regards Jorn
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Jorn
Hi
I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild on my 283 standard and will put in a new standard Cam and have the question "should I choose solid or hydraulic lifters( now it's solid) and if I choose hydr. do I have to buy new Engine push rods or is the Rods the same to these two types of Lifters?It's a 1959,C1 and its not for race just cruising

Regards Jorn
Which engine do you have? The 230hp 1x4, 245hp 2x4, and 250hp fuelie had a hydraulic cam and lifters, and the 270hp 2x4 and 290hp fuelie had a solid-lifter cam and solid lifters (cam and lifter type have to match). With stock lifters, pushrods were the same for all engines.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 03:55 PM
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Hi John

I have an 230hp, 1 x 4 with Iron Powerglide.

Jorn
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jorn
Hi
I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild on my 283 standard and will put in a new standard Cam and have the question "should I choose solid or hydraulic lifters( now it's solid) and if I choose hydr. do I have to buy new Engine push rods or is the Rods the same to these two types of Lifters?It's a 1959,C1 and its not for race just cruising

Regards Jorn
Go back with the hyd cam and hyd lifters set. You can get a kit chaper than buy both apart.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 04:24 PM
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Hi Robert

If I look at Corvette Central, there is only one type 283 cam so where should I buy such hydr. cam and lifters? Do you have some ideas?

Jorn
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Jorn
Hi Robert

If I look at Corvette Central, there is only one type 283 cam so where should I buy such hydr. cam and lifters? Do you have some ideas?

Jorn

Summit Racing #SLP-CS-274. Stock Chev. hyd. cam & lifters. $79.99 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-CS-274LIFT/

Jim

Last edited by 1snake; Mar 9, 2011 at 04:57 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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Have the best of both worlds. Put Rhoads Lifter in the motor. They are anti pumpup Hyd lifter, that as good as solids. You can not float them so the RPM will go as high as a solid lift cam. You can run the hyd lift cam and don't have to change any engine internal parts.

I have run these in a 66 Big Block for years and can show you 7K rpm anytime you want. I know I will get alot of people that think that kind of rpm on a BB is not possible, but if you build it right, then it will do it.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 1snake
Summit Racing #SLP-CS-274. Stock Chev. hyd. cam & lifters. $79.99 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-CS-274LIFT/

Jim
Are if you want a special grand to want you want. Are call them and tell them what you have and wanting to do with the car. COMP CAMS in Memphis TN. Call them if you need help with something like that. My C5 vette with a S/C on it ls2 block, pushing out 973 rwhp and 827 rwtq and I drive it ever day to work. Robert
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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Come on guys. He's got a 230HP with a PG. The original cam is about the best there is for that car.


Jim
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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I agree, Smooth, quiet, with good low end grunt. Stock is best. Bob
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by a66bbvet
Have the best of both worlds. Put Rhoads Lifter in the motor. They are anti pumpup Hyd lifter, that as good as solids. You can not float them so the RPM will go as high as a solid lift cam. You can run the hyd lift cam and don't have to change any engine internal parts.

I have run these in a 66 Big Block for years and can show you 7K rpm anytime you want. I know I will get alot of people that think that kind of rpm on a BB is not possible, but if you build it right, then it will do it.
I've run these before too - great lifters - good to well above 6500 rpm.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 12:41 AM
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Hi Guys
Sorry for so late answers to you, but it got dark outside so I vent to bed
I will follow Jims advice and go the "stock" way, but thanks for your advices, there are always good help here on this Forum.

Regards Jorn
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 1snake
Come on guys. He's got a 230HP with a PG. The original cam is about the best there is for that car.


Jim

The best he can do is factory stock.

Unless he is willing do other things?

IMHO Even then, the powerglide presents all kinds of new issues with added performance. Could be huge project creep.

Enjoy the trouble free motor as it is.

Last edited by MiguelsC2; Mar 10, 2011 at 01:20 AM.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 11:14 AM
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Go original...
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 12:32 PM
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What's wrong with the one that's in it? With all the breakin problems and poor quality new parts out these days, if it was running good, I'd inspect it for wear, and if it looked good, reuse it. Remember to keep the exact lifter with the same lobe.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 12:02 AM
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Jorn,

The stock hydraulic cam and lifters will be good.

Be sure to use a break-in oil additive with a high Zn-P extreme pressure additive. Most flat tappet cam problems are caused in the first 20 minutes beacause of no Zn-P and false starts and inadequate rpms. The flat lifters and cam lobes must "lap" together for long life.

Many times a bottle of the break-in additive is packed with the cam.

Some Denmark history, the Zn-P (ZDDP zinc dithiophospate) oil additive for most of Europe was manufactured at BP's plant at Nyborg.

If you or your engine builder has any questions about break-in of a flat tappet cam, we will help you.

Joe

Last edited by devildog; Mar 11, 2011 at 12:09 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by devildog
Jorn,

The stock hydraulic cam and lifters will be good.

Be sure to use a break-in oil additive with a high Zn-P extreme pressure additive. Most flat tappet cam problems are caused in the first 20 minutes beacause of no Zn-P and false starts and inadequate rpms. The flat lifters and cam lobes must "lap" together for long life.

Many times a bottle of the break-in additive is packed with the cam.

Some Denmark history, the Zn-P (ZDDP zinc dithiophospate) oil additive for most of Europe was manufactured at BP's plant at Nyborg.

If you or your engine builder has any questions about break-in of a flat tappet cam, we will help you.

Joe
For sure on this are you will be redoing the motor...
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:36 AM
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Hi Joe
Thanks for the advice, I will remember the additive.
I life 25miles from Nyborg

Regards Jorn
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