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Hi
I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild on my 283 standard and will put in a new standard Cam and have the question "should I choose solid or hydraulic lifters( now it's solid) and if I choose hydr. do I have to buy new Engine push rods or is the Rods the same to these two types of Lifters?It's a 1959,C1 and its not for race just cruising
Hi
I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild on my 283 standard and will put in a new standard Cam and have the question "should I choose solid or hydraulic lifters( now it's solid) and if I choose hydr. do I have to buy new Engine push rods or is the Rods the same to these two types of Lifters?It's a 1959,C1 and its not for race just cruising
Regards Jorn
Which engine do you have? The 230hp 1x4, 245hp 2x4, and 250hp fuelie had a hydraulic cam and lifters, and the 270hp 2x4 and 290hp fuelie had a solid-lifter cam and solid lifters (cam and lifter type have to match). With stock lifters, pushrods were the same for all engines.
Hi
I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild on my 283 standard and will put in a new standard Cam and have the question "should I choose solid or hydraulic lifters( now it's solid) and if I choose hydr. do I have to buy new Engine push rods or is the Rods the same to these two types of Lifters?It's a 1959,C1 and its not for race just cruising
Regards Jorn
Go back with the hyd cam and hyd lifters set. You can get a kit chaper than buy both apart.
Have the best of both worlds. Put Rhoads Lifter in the motor. They are anti pumpup Hyd lifter, that as good as solids. You can not float them so the RPM will go as high as a solid lift cam. You can run the hyd lift cam and don't have to change any engine internal parts.
I have run these in a 66 Big Block for years and can show you 7K rpm anytime you want. I know I will get alot of people that think that kind of rpm on a BB is not possible, but if you build it right, then it will do it.
Are if you want a special grand to want you want. Are call them and tell them what you have and wanting to do with the car. COMP CAMS in Memphis TN. Call them if you need help with something like that. My C5 vette with a S/C on it ls2 block, pushing out 973 rwhp and 827 rwtq and I drive it ever day to work. Robert
Have the best of both worlds. Put Rhoads Lifter in the motor. They are anti pumpup Hyd lifter, that as good as solids. You can not float them so the RPM will go as high as a solid lift cam. You can run the hyd lift cam and don't have to change any engine internal parts.
I have run these in a 66 Big Block for years and can show you 7K rpm anytime you want. I know I will get alot of people that think that kind of rpm on a BB is not possible, but if you build it right, then it will do it.
I've run these before too - great lifters - good to well above 6500 rpm.
Hi Guys
Sorry for so late answers to you, but it got dark outside so I vent to bed
I will follow Jims advice and go the "stock" way, but thanks for your advices, there are always good help here on this Forum.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
What's wrong with the one that's in it? With all the breakin problems and poor quality new parts out these days, if it was running good, I'd inspect it for wear, and if it looked good, reuse it. Remember to keep the exact lifter with the same lobe.
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Jorn,
The stock hydraulic cam and lifters will be good.
Be sure to use a break-in oil additive with a high Zn-P extreme pressure additive. Most flat tappet cam problems are caused in the first 20 minutes beacause of no Zn-P and false starts and inadequate rpms. The flat lifters and cam lobes must "lap" together for long life.
Many times a bottle of the break-in additive is packed with the cam.
Some Denmark history, the Zn-P (ZDDP zinc dithiophospate) oil additive for most of Europe was manufactured at BP's plant at Nyborg.
If you or your engine builder has any questions about break-in of a flat tappet cam, we will help you.
Joe
Last edited by devildog; Mar 11, 2011 at 12:09 AM.
Be sure to use a break-in oil additive with a high Zn-P extreme pressure additive. Most flat tappet cam problems are caused in the first 20 minutes beacause of no Zn-P and false starts and inadequate rpms. The flat lifters and cam lobes must "lap" together for long life.
Many times a bottle of the break-in additive is packed with the cam.
Some Denmark history, the Zn-P (ZDDP zinc dithiophospate) oil additive for most of Europe was manufactured at BP's plant at Nyborg.
If you or your engine builder has any questions about break-in of a flat tappet cam, we will help you.
Joe
For sure on this are you will be redoing the motor...