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What's the proper height of a mid-year ? I'n not sure where to measure from nor how many inches it should be. The car seems to sag a bit in the back and I'm not sure if I need new shocks or springs (or both). I have P205-75-15 radial tires. Any help is appreciated.
Is it possible that the adjusting bolts on the rear leaf are pulled down to tight? For me, I like to see the wheel well openings at approximately the same height. I think it gives the car a clean look. I have set my lip on the fenders about 1" to 1 1/2" below the top of the tire. Just my preference and that is where the front sets, so I just matched it with the adjustmen to the rear. I hope this helps.
The Engineering design ride height measurements (which are independent of tire size) are shown in your Assembly Manual, in UPC 3, sheet A6 ("Z" height) for the front, and in UPC 4, sheet B5 ("D" height) for the rear. All you need is a yo-yo.
If the "Z" and "D" heights are within specs, the bottom-of-rocker molding to ground measurements ("J" height at the front and "K" height at the rear) should be within specs too.
The correct 6"-long rear spring end-to-trailing arm link bolts with slotted nuts and cotter pins aren't adjustable. If you have longer ones with Nylok nuts on them, those are aftermarket, usually installed to compensate for an incorrect replacement rear spring with too much camber (arch).
The Engineering design ride height measurements (which are independent of tire size) are shown in your Assembly Manual, in UPC 3, sheet A6 ("Z" height) for the front, and in UPC 4, sheet B5 ("D" height) for the rear. All you need is a yo-yo.
If the "Z" and "D" heights are within specs, the bottom-of-rocker molding to ground measurements ("J" height at the front and "K" height at the rear) should be within specs too.
The correct 6"-long rear spring end-to-trailing arm link bolts with slotted nuts and cotter pins aren't adjustable. If you have longer ones with Nylok nuts on them, those are aftermarket, usually installed to compensate for an incorrect replacement rear spring with too much camber (arch).
John, I've ready many of your posts over the past few years and have much respect for your mechanical and historical knowledge of Corvettes as well as other Chevy models. Having said that......., I don't have an assembly manual and was wondering if you knew the height measurement specs and could pass them on...
I don't have an assembly manual and was wondering if you knew the height measurement specs and could pass them on...
Chevy restoration spec calls for 8 inches from the ground to bottom of rocker panel (front and rear). That translates to 12.5 inches to the body crease above the rocker (that aligns with the bottom of the door) if your car has sidepipes instead of rockers.
Chevy restoration spec calls for 8 inches from the ground to bottom of rocker panel (front and rear). That translates to 12.5 inches to the body crease above the rocker (that aligns with the bottom of the door) if your car has sidepipes instead of rockers.
8" should get you very close. If the rear is a little high, i wouldn't worry. My reference suggests a slight rake. 8.1 front and 8.4 rear. The measurement points are 42" apart and are for 27" tall tires (very close to what you are running).
You can raise the rear by adding washers to the link bolts. Lowering it will require the longer bolts JohnZ mentions.
F40/41 springs are supposed to lower it a little. In my case it was about 1/2 inch.
Cant answer your question....but you do see a a lot of restored cars that seem to sit too high. Mine was restored 20 years ago......I like the way it sits.
Last edited by gilbybarr; Mar 16, 2011 at 11:27 PM.