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I used crazy glue on mine. I don't have the original mirror, so mine couldn't be tightened. I sat in the car and positioned the mirror and then I got out carefully and put a drop of crazy glue on the ball right where it meets the mirror. It's been good for over a year.
I pulled the snap ring out on the glass side and removed the glass. Then I recrimped the "pins" that hold the strap that goes across the ball and provided the friction. That's been quite a while ago and so far, it's working great.
rj - The superglue trick should work for you but if not, you might have to recrimp the pins as Steve mentioned. In the case of the replacement mirror on my 65 Coupe, there wasn't enough material left on top of the stand-post to peen down over the thin spring steel plate that provides tension to the pivot ball. Here's the 'as-found' pic after removing the mirror.
I wound up having to drill and tap the stand-post for a small screw (can't remember if it's a 6/32 or an 8/32) to help keep that steel plate tight to the pivot ball.
Also, if you have an original style mirror, I believe most if not all of them came from the factory with a retaining ring to hold the mirror in place with three small coil springs on the backside pushing the mirror up against the ring.
If yours is a replacement like mine, it's held on by three big dollops of silicone to those three flat-top posts you'll see in the first picture. To remove the mirror, I had it sitting in a bath of enamel reducer and after a number of hours soaking I used a few small screwdrivers and putty knives to try to pry the mirror off those posts. If yours is the glued on variety, take your time otherwise you'll crack the mirror. Slow damned process but it works. One last thing, when you get ready to reinstall the glued on mirror, rough up the tops of the posts and then lightly wipe them and the back of the mirror with enamel reducer so the new blobs of silicone can get a good grip.
Mike T.
There is a little serrated piece on my mirror stem that seems like it might unscrew and let the mirror and ball come off the stem. I don't want to try to twist it unless one of you guys says that is the way it works. I don't want to take the whole mirror off the door if it can be avoided.
I've seen that serrated portion of the stem but figured if it was an interference fit when they first jammed it in there and any attempt to reattach it into the stand might not work so well the second time around. I believe all midyear side view mirrors are attached to the base plate with a small allen screw on the inboard side of the stand that uses a 5/32 allen wrench so it should be relatively easy to remove the whole assembly. Is the reason you're avoiding doing it that way due to maybe paint buildup against the stand?
Mike T.
I've seen that serrated portion of the stem but figured if it was an interference fit when they first jammed it in there and any attempt to reattach it into the stand might not work so well the second time around. I believe all midyear side view mirrors are attached to the base plate with a small allen screw on the inboard side of the stand that uses a 5/32 allen wrench so it should be relatively easy to remove the whole assembly. Is the reason you're avoiding doing it that way due to maybe paint buildup against the stand?
Mike T.
That's correct. it's splined and pressed in there. The only way it comes out is straight out. Mine came out in my hand one day on the interstate while I was adjusting it. I was lucky not to lose it. I applied some epoxy and rammed it back in there for good!
I am trying to avoid taking off the door panel etc. but if the glue does not fix it I guess I will have to do it properly.
Originally Posted by Vet65te
I've seen that serrated portion of the stem but figured if it was an interference fit when they first jammed it in there and any attempt to reattach it into the stand might not work so well the second time around. I believe all midyear side view mirrors are attached to the base plate with a small allen screw on the inboard side of the stand that uses a 5/32 allen wrench so it should be relatively easy to remove the whole assembly. Is the reason you're avoiding doing it that way due to maybe paint buildup against the stand?
Mike T.
If it's an original mirror, you don't have to take off the door panel to remove it. As Vet65te said, there's an allen screw in the base of the mirror, (outside the car) that once removed, will allow the mirror to come off the door.
If it's an original mirror, you don't have to take off the door panel to remove it. As Vet65te said, there's an allen screw in the base of the mirror, (outside the car) that once removed, will allow the mirror to come off the door.
Steve
There is indeed. Just be damn careful you use an allen key that won't come in contact with the door paint above the mirror base.
As usual you guys are right. Mine has a phillips head screw hidden in a little recess facing the rear of the car that I never noticed. I guess that means they aren't original but at least they will come off without taking off the door panel. Maybe I can buy a new one just like the one I take off, if not I can take the mirror apart on the bench and fix it. Thanks again.
Originally Posted by Avispa
There is indeed. Just be damn careful you use an allen key that won't come in contact with the door paint above the mirror base.
I used crazy glue on mine. I don't have the original mirror, so mine couldn't be tightened. I sat in the car and positioned the mirror and then I got out carefully and put a drop of crazy glue on the ball right where it meets the mirror. It's been good for over a year.
rj - The superglue trick should work for you but if not, you might have to recrimp the pins as Steve mentioned. In the case of the replacement mirror on my 65 Coupe, there wasn't enough material left on top of the stand-post to peen down over the thin spring steel plate that provides tension to the pivot ball. Here's the 'as-found' pic after removing the mirror.
I wound up having to drill and tap the stand-post for a small screw (can't remember if it's a 6/32 or an 8/32) to help keep that steel plate tight to the pivot ball.
Also, if you have an original style mirror, I believe most if not all of them came from the factory with a retaining ring to hold the mirror in place with three small coil springs on the backside pushing the mirror up against the ring.
If yours is a replacement like mine, it's held on by three big dollops of silicone to those three flat-top posts you'll see in the first picture. To remove the mirror, I had it sitting in a bath of enamel reducer and after a number of hours soaking I used a few small screwdrivers and putty knives to try to pry the mirror off those posts. If yours is the glued on variety, take your time otherwise you'll crack the mirror. Slow damned process but it works. One last thing, when you get ready to reinstall the glued on mirror, rough up the tops of the posts and then lightly wipe them and the back of the mirror with enamel reducer so the new blobs of silicone can get a good grip.
Mike T.
I pulled the snap ring out on the glass side and removed the glass. Then I recrimped the "pins" that hold the strap that goes across the ball and provided the friction. That's been quite a while ago and so far, it's working great.
Steve
This is the better fix, and really isn't as scary as it sounds. I fixed my mirror on my 67-it took some pretty hefty whacks with a hammer. Unlike glue or loctite, my mirror can be moved. That's a good thing. I don't know that anyone but me will drive it, but it's nice to know they can. And there's something so "Bubba" about using glue or loctite to fix a mirror, instead of fixing it properly to work as intended.
If it's an original mirror, you don't have to take off the door panel to remove it. As Vet65te said, there's an allen screw in the base of the mirror, (outside the car) that once removed, will allow the mirror to come off the door.
Steve
FYI, you can buy reproduction mirrors that mount identically to the original-allen screw and all. The base and rubber gasket too.
I had a very nice GM resto mirror that was doing this and I didn't want to buy another one. I drilled and tapped, like Vet65te did, and now she's nice and tight..
I took the mirror apart and drilled and tapped the stand off as you guys showed me in the pictures and the mirror is now great, thanks for every ones help. My mirror had the 3 springs in it, does that mean it was an original mirror? I also replaced my speedometer today and have a question about the trip meter cable. I will start a new thread on that.
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