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knock off problem

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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 12:06 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Tom Schaefer
maybe my eyes are off, I will try hitting again thanks Tom
See post #2.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 01:34 PM
  #22  
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From: killingworth ct
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Originally Posted by 65hihp
You guys are trying to help Tom with his problem, but he has not provided enough information to let anyone know what he is doing. Is he trying to tighten his spinners down, or remove them? What are tru kos? Originals or repros? Are there slots for pins or not? Is the car up on jack stands, or down on the deck? etc.
Tom,
give us the full scoop, and perhaps we can help with some advice. These wheels are safe if installed correctly, and can be very dangerous if installed incorrectly. You have said you are a vette newbie, so you are playing with fire here.
Thanks for your concern, the car is on the ground, I want to take the wheel off so I removed center cap, what I see now is a hole say 4" deep and the spinner and the threaded part of the hub I guess, also see holes for pins, both on the threaded part and the spinner, no holes line up to make a full hole, I tried to spin the spinner off in the direction of the off arrow on the spinner,I am replacing the spinner so I hit it with a maul and I think both the spinner and the threads moved as I marked them both first,maybe I think they moved
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 03:36 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Tom Schaefer

.....................so I hit it with a maul and I think both the spinner and the threads moved as I marked them both first,maybe I think they moved
That is what I've been saying in post #2.

I don't know what kind of "maul" you have but I'd strongly suggest you review the proper procedure for mounting and tightening the wheels before you drive your new car.

The word "maul" scares me a little. You need a good lead hammer. About a five pounder to put them on. Not a mallet, not a dead blow. You need to make sure you have the wheels indexed over the drive pins instead of the lug nuts. You need to make sure your threads are clean and burr free. Use anti-seize or white lithium grease on the spinner threads and spinner/cone interface.

No, the sky is not falling. Just use some common sense and follow the directions for mounting your wheels.

I don't think you need the pins or the magic marker if you put them on correctly. If you don't put them on correctly, the magic marker and the pins probably aren't going to save you.

Last edited by MikeM; Mar 18, 2011 at 03:39 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 03:56 PM
  #24  
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I don't know what kind of "maul" you have but I'd strongly suggest you review the proper procedure for mounting and tightening the wheels before you drive your new car.

The word "maul" scares me a little. You need a good lead hammer.
See post #2

Mike Coletta
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 04:52 PM
  #25  
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From: killingworth ct
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Mike thank you, I was able to move spinner I just didnt hit it hard enough at first,and the reason I used a maul is because I dont have a lead hammer yet and I plan on changing spinners thanks again Tom
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 05:51 PM
  #26  
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Default Knock Off Wheel Installation Instructions




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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 06:04 PM
  #27  
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thanks Stingray
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 08:54 AM
  #28  
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Can someone provide a reason why Note 11 in the installation instructions posted by Stingrayl76 above clearly state that the wheel must not be on the ground?

I have always snugged mine up while in the air just enough to make sure they are properly seated then beat on them after lowering the wheel to the ground. Of course, I do not have a helper to step on the brake! But even if I did, it seems that might be stressing some parts unnecessarily - I whack those spinners pretty hard!

Jon
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jfr's 63swc
Can someone provide a reason why Note 11 in the installation instructions posted by Stingrayl76 above clearly state that the wheel must not be on the ground?

I have always snugged mine up while in the air just enough to make sure they are properly seated then beat on them after lowering the wheel to the ground. Of course, I do not have a helper to step on the brake! But even if I did, it seems that might be stressing some parts unnecessarily - I whack those spinners pretty hard!

Jon
You do it the way I do it. Snug them up a little while off the ground then finish tightening them with the wheel on the ground. The main reason for the tightening while off the ground is to make sure the spinner mates with the hub symmetrically. I don't agree with completely tightnening them while in the air. As you say, "it seems that might be stressing some parts".
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jfr's 63swc
Can someone provide a reason why Note 11 in the installation instructions posted by Stingrayl76 above clearly state that the wheel must not be on the ground?

I have always snugged mine up while in the air just enough to make sure they are properly seated then beat on them after lowering the wheel to the ground. Of course, I do not have a helper to step on the brake! But even if I did, it seems that might be stressing some parts unnecessarily - I whack those spinners pretty hard!

Jon
If you do not have a helper to step on the brake, you can use a "club" steering wheel locking device and wedge it between the brake pedal and seat. I have used this method many times to set the brake while tightening knock offs. Works great.
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 02:27 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by stingrayl76
The main reason for the tightening while off the ground is to make sure the spinner mates with the hub symmetrically. I don't agree with completely tightnening them while in the air. As you say, "it seems that might be stressing some parts".
Once the cone of the spinner centers the wheel on the adapter, give the spinner a few "love taps" to ensure it's snug.

After that there is no good reason to keep the tire in the air.

Set the wheel on the ground and flail away on the spinner.

Jim
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