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My #1 cylinder on the new hooker headers I'm installing is touching the frame of the car.
Suggestions while I'm still in the install process:
1. leave it alone
2. drop the headers back down and bang on the frame to get 1/8" plus of clearance to avoid rattles and vibration and heat transfer from the tube into the frame
3. Get the headers hot and try to create a space between the header pipe and frame by pushing a wedge between the pipe and the frame to move the pipe a little
4. Other suggestions
I'd mark the header, drop it down and bend it.On uncoated headers, Ive went to an exhaust shop and had them reroute the tube. It might need more than an 1/8th if you are not running solid motor mounts. It sucks when you step up and buy the best and it still isnt right, but hey, thats hotrodding!
Wow, no kidding. What a pain. These are chrome, ceramic coated so I suppose I have to be extra careful about doing any bending on the Hooker pipes.
Might have to go back to Option 2 - banging on the frame to get the clearance I need to keep the headers from contacting the frame. Shouldn't need much room, just enough to keep them off the frame so they don't rattle my teeth when I'm driving.
Been reading the last 6 months about Hooker JUNK headers. Some posts have sent them back and got another set and OK. Guess they are one of them companies that don`t care as long as they have your money. Do a search here and check out the comments.
Hooker headers are poorly made. 40 years ago, I bought a set for an A body GM. They hit the frame in 4 places. Bought a set for another A body 10 years ago, and they still hit the frame in the same 4 places. You would think that after 30 years, they would have figured it out.
Send them back and get a set of Doug Thorley headers.