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You have to remove the kick panels on the interior to install the backing plates. The push nuts in the wheel well are tricky to start. Overall pretty straight forward.
The reproduction spears can sometimes give you grief as they are wider than originals ... so when trying to get the front edge to go in behind the cove inset you scratch the paint. I did a small amount of grinding on the outboard front edge to get an easy fit...you have to watch the chrome carefully when doing this however...
On each of the little studs on the rear of the spears shoot some WD-40 on them and run each speed nut down VERY straight and carefully all the way to the bottom to thread the stud and then remove the nut and install the part. You'll avoid breaking the studs off later on -- trust me on this one!
It is very easy to scratch your cove paint when working the spears, so remove all the old dum dum to fully open up the slits. The driver side is about 10 times easier to get to as compared to the passenger side, as you have to essentially dismantle the right interior to get the kick panel off.
Also, believe each spear is unique, so install accordingly
Yeah I forgot that -- EVERY single spear of the 6 is different !
There is a left top, left middle, left bottom and a right top, right middle and right bottom.
Putting the cove trim and spears on reminded me why GM later went to push snap plastic fasteners later and then got rid of the trim altogether on all tehir cars.
What a time consuming process to get it on right, without scratching anything.
Recently on the Corvette Restoration Preservation List they also suggested taking a 10 penny nail and slightly "stretch" the speed nuts as the studs readily break off. Hand tighten it and finish with a small socket. I broke a stud just removing mine.
C Ya, Joseph Rock
Frankenstein 59 & Grand Sport proto
The problem is that the reproductions have chrome on the studs just like on the visible surfaces and the cheesy speed nuts have a hard time cutting the tough chrome so you use more force on the socket or wrench and pretty soon "snap". Some lightly grind the chrome off the studs with a Dremel or wheel. I've found the WD40, and just being careful with that first time running the nuts on OFF the car, does the trick.
Anybody tried drilling and tapping a small hole for a threaded replacement (or small machine screw) to fix a broken stud?? I have some nice original ones that are missing some tabs that I'd like to try and fix and that is what I was thinking. Pilot Dan
You have to remove the kick panels on the interior to install the backing plates. The push nuts in the wheel well are tricky to start. Overall pretty straight forward.
I took my die set and threaded the ends as best I could....have to be careful you can break one off if you force it, but that made starting very easy with a nut driver.....you just have to get a hint of a thread on the stem and it will pull up the rest of the way for you....