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Be Cool Radiator & battery with LS engine in 63

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Old 03-30-2011, 06:13 PM
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jafranke
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Default Be Cool Radiator & battery with LS engine in 63

Quick question for anyone with experience.

Putting an LS2 eingine into my 63. When ordering the Be Cool engine I need to understand the best way to customize. I am placing both upper and lower connections on the passenger side. I have a new expansion tank and want to know if there is any problem using it or if installing a filler neck is a better arrangement. Any opinions out there. I will have after market air conditioning instlalled with the compressor on the passenger sideif that matters.

Also...will I be able to keep the battery in the original location or does it need to be moved. If moved, where is a good location ?

thanks for any help...

Jon
Old 03-30-2011, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jafranke
Quick question for anyone with experience.

Putting an LS2 eingine into my 63. When ordering the Be Cool engine I need to understand the best way to customize. I am placing both upper and lower connections on the passenger side. I have a new expansion tank and want to know if there is any problem using it or if installing a filler neck is a better arrangement. Any opinions out there. I will have after market air conditioning instlalled with the compressor on the passenger sideif that matters.

Also...will I be able to keep the battery in the original location or does it need to be moved. If moved, where is a good location ?

thanks for any help...

Jon
If you are using a small block radiator, you will have to use the expansion tank. No expansion tank needed with a big block radiator because it has side tanks attached to the core.

With the addition of the A/C, the passenger side battery may be a big PITA to remove with the A/C equipment installed. Factory A/C midyears have the battery installed on the driver's side with an access panel in the rear of the inner fender. Repro driver side battery trays and access panels are readily available thru Corvette Central and other vendors. That JMO and I sure others will be giving you some good alternatives.

Last edited by stingrayl76; 03-30-2011 at 11:21 PM.
Old 03-30-2011, 11:19 PM
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mikey
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I agree, battery will be a PITA to remove in original location. Definitely more room on the driver's side and as mentioned, you can order the removable panel for the wheel well.

Consider that you only need to change the battery every 5-7 years, but you do want easy access for jump start. You could also accomplish this by a remote positive terminal.

I myself re-located my battery to the drop in area behind the passenger seat. I wanted to move the weight back, plus I re-located the fuse block for the LS2 setup in my '64 to the same area, because that IS something I wanted regular easy access to. The regular compartment board won't fit with the battery being taller that the board drop in height, but it is easy to make a board that sits up higher which is what I will do.
Old 03-31-2011, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mikey
I agree, battery will be a PITA to remove in original location. Definitely more room on the driver's side and as mentioned, you can order the removable panel for the wheel well.

Consider that you only need to change the battery every 5-7 years, but you do want easy access for jump start. You could also accomplish this by a remote positive terminal.

I myself re-located my battery to the drop in area behind the passenger seat. I wanted to move the weight back, plus I re-located the fuse block for the LS2 setup in my '64 to the same area, because that IS something I wanted regular easy access to. The regular compartment board won't fit with the battery being taller that the board drop in height, but it is easy to make a board that sits up higher which is what I will do.


Thanks for the advice....Behind the seats might be the best place. I am installing power steering and using a manual clutch set up so the driver's side area might get a bit crowded. I'll look at the set up and see if there is room. The wheel wheel modification doesn't look too difficult. That looks like a good place for the fuse block for the LS.

If anyone is happy with their set up let me know....I am submitting another question on exhaust manifolds/ headers...

Jon
Old 03-31-2011, 10:01 PM
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robert miller
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Originally Posted by jafranke
Thanks for the advice....Behind the seats might be the best place. I am installing power steering and using a manual clutch set up so the driver's side area might get a bit crowded. I'll look at the set up and see if there is room. The wheel wheel modification doesn't look too difficult. That looks like a good place for the fuse block for the LS.

If anyone is happy with their set up let me know....I am submitting another question on exhaust manifolds/ headers...

Jon
Put in the hole behind the pass/seat. The less wire you run the better you will be .....
Old 03-31-2011, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jafranke
Thanks for the advice....Behind the seats might be the best place. I am installing power steering and using a manual clutch set up so the driver's side area might get a bit crowded. I'll look at the set up and see if there is room. The wheel wheel modification doesn't look too difficult. That looks like a good place for the fuse block for the LS.

If anyone is happy with their set up let me know....I am submitting another question on exhaust manifolds/ headers...

Jon
Jon,

I used the stock overflow reservoir and stock battery location. I used an Optima red top battery which may be a bit smaller than the stocker. The engine ECU and fuse block are both mounted above the battery as well. It is all nice and neat in the corner. I am running the vintage air A/C system as well with no interference. The overflow can be easily moved out of the way without disconnecting the hoses to help get the battery out when needed.



J
Old 03-31-2011, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Restovette63
Jon,

I used the stock overflow reservoir and stock battery location. I used an Optima red top battery which may be a bit smaller than the stocker. The engine ECU and fuse block are both mounted above the battery as well. It is all nice and neat in the corner. I am running the vintage air A/C system as well with no interference. The overflow can be easily moved out of the way without disconnecting the hoses to help get the battery out when needed.



J
Thanks....that would be easiest. Do you have problems with the ECU and fuse block getting wet in the engine compartment. I assumed I would mount them inside.

Jon
Old 04-01-2011, 10:03 AM
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Nick D.
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I used a custom built polished alum radiator with fittings for the LS on the pass side. The overflow is a polished alum tube commonly used in street rods. The ECU is on the pass side inner fender. I used an Optima behind the drivers seat. I put my CD changer behind the pass seat so I would have access to it from the drivers seat. There is an amp bolted vertically to the rear bulkhead (between the speakers). It has a removable cover attached with velcro. Sounds like you have a fun project. Can you share some pics?





Old 04-01-2011, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jafranke
Thanks....that would be easiest. Do you have problems with the ECU and fuse block getting wet in the engine compartment. I assumed I would mount them inside.

Jon
I have not had any problems with either of them getting wet. Both were designed to be mounted in the engine compartment and sealed very well. They are tucked pretty high up under the fender which keeps them out of harms way. I'll upload some pics this weekend.



J
Old 04-01-2011, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick D.
I used a custom built polished alum radiator with fittings for the LS on the pass side. The overflow is a polished alum tube commonly used in street rods. The ECU is on the pass side inner fender. I used an Optima behind the drivers seat. I put my CD changer behind the pass seat so I would have access to it from the drivers seat. There is an amp bolted vertically to the rear bulkhead (between the speakers). It has a removable cover attached with velcro. Sounds like you have a fun project. Can you share some pics?





Beautiful car....Love the pictures....

As of now, my pics would only show a body in primer and a pile of new parts ready to go. I will definately give some pictures of the assembly process.

My plan calls for an LS2 (460 hp) keeping the 3.36 Posi rear but linking it up to a TKO 600 5 Speed and side pipes. I have a front disc conversion kit, power steeering and major suspension upgrade. All appropriate parts powder coated Red. The body is going back to original Riverside Red. The interior is black and all re-done and ready to install. I am keeping the original seats, all restored with leather. I am looking at a custom Be Cool Radiator set up similar to yours, but I don't understand your overflow....Is there a separate overflow tank (I don't see it in the pics) or did you have them install a fill cap and overflow line down the side of the radiator in addition to the top and bottom coolant connections ? The car has after market Air (looks like yours does too)

I like how your battery looks behind driver's seat. I hadn't thought about a CD changer and extra speakers....your fit up looks great. I am installing a "reproduction" AM/ FM radio that has a hook up for CD/ Aux input. This is one of the "look alikes" with modern electronics. The glove compartment is all but gone and has a very short liner installed behind the door because of the AC system mounted there. I was planning on installing an IPOD mount just inside the door and connecting it to the radio using the auxillary input. All you do is open the glove box and there sits the IPOD.

Jon
Old 04-01-2011, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jafranke
Beautiful car....Love the pictures....

As of now, my pics would only show a body in primer and a pile of new parts ready to go. I will definately give some pictures of the assembly process.

My plan calls for an LS2 (460 hp) keeping the 3.36 Posi rear but linking it up to a TKO 600 5 Speed and side pipes. I have a front disc conversion kit, power steeering and major suspension upgrade. All appropriate parts powder coated Red. The body is going back to original Riverside Red. The interior is black and all re-done and ready to install. I am keeping the original seats, all restored with leather. I am looking at a custom Be Cool Radiator set up similar to yours, but I don't understand your overflow....Is there a separate overflow tank (I don't see it in the pics) or did you have them install a fill cap and overflow line down the side of the radiator in addition to the top and bottom coolant connections ? The car has after market Air (looks like yours does too)

I like how your battery looks behind driver's seat. I hadn't thought about a CD changer and extra speakers....your fit up looks great. I am installing a "reproduction" AM/ FM radio that has a hook up for CD/ Aux input. This is one of the "look alikes" with modern electronics. The glove compartment is all but gone and has a very short liner installed behind the door because of the AC system mounted there. I was planning on installing an IPOD mount just inside the door and connecting it to the radio using the auxillary input. All you do is open the glove box and there sits the IPOD.

Jon
Hi Jon-
We just had Be Cool custom make a radiator for my project (LS3). They set up the inlet/outlet to the radiator on the passenger side and a custom overflow tank to match.
Regards,
Rob
Old 04-01-2011, 06:45 PM
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i have a becool 4 core repro aluminum in my '66 bb. even on a hot day in texas it stays between 160-180 with 11.3 c/r. tjs
Old 04-01-2011, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jafranke
Beautiful car....Love the pictures....

As of now, my pics would only show a body in primer and a pile of new parts ready to go. I will definately give some pictures of the assembly process.

My plan calls for an LS2 (460 hp) keeping the 3.36 Posi rear but linking it up to a TKO 600 5 Speed and side pipes. I have a front disc conversion kit, power steeering and major suspension upgrade. All appropriate parts powder coated Red. The body is going back to original Riverside Red. The interior is black and all re-done and ready to install. I am keeping the original seats, all restored with leather. I am looking at a custom Be Cool Radiator set up similar to yours, but I don't understand your overflow....Is there a separate overflow tank (I don't see it in the pics) or did you have them install a fill cap and overflow line down the side of the radiator in addition to the top and bottom coolant connections ? The car has after market Air (looks like yours does too)

I like how your battery looks behind driver's seat. I hadn't thought about a CD changer and extra speakers....your fit up looks great. I am installing a "reproduction" AM/ FM radio that has a hook up for CD/ Aux input. This is one of the "look alikes" with modern electronics. The glove compartment is all but gone and has a very short liner installed behind the door because of the AC system mounted there. I was planning on installing an IPOD mount just inside the door and connecting it to the radio using the auxillary input. All you do is open the glove box and there sits the IPOD.

Jon
Sounds like a great project! My overflow tank is just to the left of the radiator, next to the hood prop. The cap on the radiator filler neck is right in front of the alternator. I'm sure you could use your expansion tank if you have the room, and you can also have a filler neck on the radiator. I have no experience with the Be Cool radiators but know several people who have had good luck with DeWitts. Whatever you choose, you might want to have them weld in a bung for a temp gauge or for thermostatic control of electric fans, if you choose to use them. Also, on LS1's, there is a small water line that runs between the heads on the front of the motor that needs to vent to the radiator, so another bung is necessary for that, if LS2's are similar. The bungs can be plugged if you don't use them but would be a major inconvenience to add after the fact. Is your LS2 a crate motor? Have you sorted out your accessory drive set up yet, that is, what p/s pump/pulley, alt and ac mtg brackets you need?

Old 04-02-2011, 07:38 AM
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Nick,

I have a guy putting the entire engine together for me. It is coming with a new PS pump and I am sending him my AC compressor today. He is setting up the serpintine drive for me. AC on the passenger side,....PS on the drivers. Using chrome accessories just because. If I am spending this much it might as well look as good as I can make it. I'll have to check to see if the LS2 needs the vent like the LS1. The Be Cool guy did mention a vent/ fill line to the water pump that can be rigged to the expansion tank line when we were talking about the use of the original expansion tank. I believe a similar fill/ vent is needed for the heater coils if they are installed.

Quick question about your interior. I love the hinged cover over the battery and CD player. How did you get that to match. Is that a custome carpet job, or did you just add to a set from one of the usual vendors ? I have already invested in a set of new carpet from Corvette America. I like your set up for the battery and like the way you have it arranged.

Jon
Old 04-02-2011, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jafranke
Nick,

I have a guy putting the entire engine together for me. It is coming with a new PS pump and I am sending him my AC compressor today. He is setting up the serpintine drive for me. AC on the passenger side,....PS on the drivers. Using chrome accessories just because. If I am spending this much it might as well look as good as I can make it. I'll have to check to see if the LS2 needs the vent like the LS1. The Be Cool guy did mention a vent/ fill line to the water pump that can be rigged to the expansion tank line when we were talking about the use of the original expansion tank. I believe a similar fill/ vent is needed for the heater coils if they are installed.

Quick question about your interior. I love the hinged cover over the battery and CD player. How did you get that to match. Is that a custome carpet job, or did you just add to a set from one of the usual vendors ? I have already invested in a set of new carpet from Corvette America. I like your set up for the battery and like the way you have it arranged.

Jon
Jon,
I built the cover from 3/4" plywood and a couple piano hinges I bought at Lowes. The interior was done by a custom shop in Calif and is Torch Red which is not available in stock colors. I couldn't use the factory stuff anyway as I have 96 suspension and a Borg-Warner 6 speed in the car so I had to modify the floor pan to get it all under there.

Are you going to test fit the motor and accessories to the frame/body soon? This is an area that can cause lots of issues. Crate motors are set up for the GTO accessories which mounts the alt low on the drivers side and the ac comp low on the pass side. Both will probably hit your frame and steering. The Corvette alt/ps pump are mounted high on the drivers side and will most likely fit your setup. The Corvette ac comp is mounted in the same place as the GTO and will need to be moved up top on the pass side. I assume you are using a Sanden ac comp with your aftermarket ac system? This will take a custom bracket to work. Also, the crank pulley is in a different place on the Corvette motor vs the GTO which further complicates things. You can use a Corvette alt/ps bracket on a GTO motor but you have to use a 3/4" spacer. The Corvette ps pump may not be compatible with your new ps. Hopefully your engine guy knows all these idiosyncrasies and everything will fit. I just want to make you aware of the areas of concern.

Do you have your fuel system sorted out? How about gauge compatibility, wiring & computer issues. Are you going to use oxygen sensors?

Lots to think about but I know you will love the LS motor and the 5 speed!
Old 04-02-2011, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick D.
Jon,
I built the cover from 3/4" plywood and a couple piano hinges I bought at Lowes. The interior was done by a custom shop in Calif and is Torch Red which is not available in stock colors. I couldn't use the factory stuff anyway as I have 96 suspension and a Borg-Warner 6 speed in the car so I had to modify the floor pan to get it all under there.

Are you going to test fit the motor and accessories to the frame/body soon? This is an area that can cause lots of issues. Crate motors are set up for the GTO accessories which mounts the alt low on the drivers side and the ac comp low on the pass side. Both will probably hit your frame and steering. The Corvette alt/ps pump are mounted high on the drivers side and will most likely fit your setup. The Corvette ac comp is mounted in the same place as the GTO and will need to be moved up top on the pass side. I assume you are using a Sanden ac comp with your aftermarket ac system? This will take a custom bracket to work. Also, the crank pulley is in a different place on the Corvette motor vs the GTO which further complicates things. You can use a Corvette alt/ps bracket on a GTO motor but you have to use a 3/4" spacer. The Corvette ps pump may not be compatible with your new ps. Hopefully your engine guy knows all these idiosyncrasies and everything will fit. I just want to make you aware of the areas of concern.

Do you have your fuel system sorted out? How about gauge compatibility, wiring & computer issues. Are you going to use oxygen sensors?

Lots to think about but I know you will love the LS motor and the 5 speed!
The assembly guy claims to know how to set the engine up for the C2. That being said I am going on faith a bit here. He is calling for a
Corvette style PS, camero Harmonic Balancer, Camero water pump, corvette configuration alternator," Hi-mount" A/C set and a corvette drive pully set. He had me mail him the compressor and he is going to fit up and provide the brackets along with the entire belt set up.

It comes with an LS2 wiring harness and MSD MEFI 4 ECM. I wasn't smart enough to know to ask about the O2 sensor. I just assumed it was part of the package. I wasn't aware that not having an O2 sensor was an option.

Still deciding on the exhaust manifold/ header option. He normally supplies a "hugger" style manifold with ceramic coatings, but I want to ensure I get something that will work with the steering and side pipes. I would welcome your opinion there. He said he would put in anything I ask.

As for the fuel system, I was planning a pump external to the tank with return line off of a regulator. I intended to remove the tank level/ sending unit assembly and have a new supply line added, using the currentl supply connection for the tank return. I must admit I am tempted to get a custom tank with internal pump. The tank I have was replaced a few years ago apparently and like new...just seems a waste to not use it.

Jon

Last edited by jafranke; 04-02-2011 at 01:04 PM.
Old 04-02-2011, 01:22 PM
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Sounds like you have it covered so far. The MEFI 3 & 4 are used on the GM Ram Jet crate motors. I don't know if the 4 is a true "closed loop" system. cbernhardt here on the forum is very familiar with this system and hopefully will respond. I have not heard of the MEFI4 being used with an LS2. Anyone?

Your exhaust system sounds like a trial end error method. With all the different things going on you will probably need to keep looking at options until you get something that works. Your best bet would probably be to take it to a muffler shop that does custom fabrication, if you can find one.

You can get your like new tank reworked by Rock Valley to put the pump inside and provide the proper connections. This is what I did and it saved me some $$. This is a personal choice but I recommend using an in-tank pump.

Last edited by Nick D.; 04-02-2011 at 01:27 PM.

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Old 04-02-2011, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick D.
Sounds like you have it covered so far. The MEFI 3 & 4 are used on the GM Ram Jet crate motors. I don't know if the 4 is a true "closed loop" system. cbernhardt here on the forum is very familiar with this system and hopefully will respond. I have not heard of the MEFI4 being used with an LS2. Anyone?

Your exhaust system sounds like a trial end error method. With all the different things going on you will probably need to keep looking at options until you get something that works. Your best bet would probably be to take it to a muffler shop that does custom fabrication, if you can find one.

You can get your like new tank reworked by Rock Valley to put the pump inside and provide the proper connections. This is what I did and it saved me some $$. This is a personal choice but I recommend using an in-tank pump.
That makes sense. I knew that built tanks, but didn't know that they reworked them to add the pumps....etc. That makes sense. I read that their C2 custom tanks didn't fit quite right, but if they are modiffying the original, than it should fit fine. I know that a MEFI 4 will work only based on reading up on it on line, but if there is any expertise out there....please jump in.

The guy at Be Cool sent me a drawing of the radiator he is recommended. He wanted to know if I had a preferemce on the orientation of the top and bottom connections. What do you think ? He has the top coming straght back toward the engine and the bottom coiming out into a 90 and facing upward. I don't know what the best arrangement is for connection to the LS2. He indicated that I could have it any way I wanted.

Jon

Jon

Last edited by jafranke; 04-02-2011 at 01:50 PM.
Old 04-02-2011, 05:25 PM
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Nick D.
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Rock Valley will also sell you a kit to convert your tank to use a submersible pump and baffle. Their instructions are quite good but it takes cutting/welding skills. Welding on a used gas tank can make you nervous . Best bet would be to ship yours to them and let them take care of it. http://www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com/catalog.htm
It will come back with the feed and return fittings on top of the tank. I used my stock sending unit for the fuel gauge and soldered up the feed line.

The radiator inlet/outlet sound fine the way he has them. The biggest problem is usually with the heater hoses as the fittings on the block point right at, and are close to, the pass side suspension. I bent up some wire coat hangers to simulate my hoses and went to my local NAPA store. They let me go in the back where all the hoses were hanging. I spent about an hour finding hoses that would work, most had to be trimmed but that's a small inconvience. Are you going to use electric fan(s) to pull air thru the radiator?
Old 04-02-2011, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick D.
Sounds like you have it covered so far. The MEFI 3 & 4 are used on the GM Ram Jet crate motors. I don't know if the 4 is a true "closed loop" system. cbernhardt here on the forum is very familiar with this system and hopefully will respond. I have not heard of the MEFI4 being used with an LS2. Anyone?
The first GM Ram Jet engines used the MEFI3 injection system which did not include an O2 sensor. The later engines came with the MEFI4a controller which did include an O2 sensor and an air temp sensor. The O2 sensor that comes with the MEFI4a Ram Jets is a narrow band.

I think the controller used by MSD is the MEFI4b. MSD used to have a fuel injection forum ( http://www.msdignition.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=28 ) , but one of their techs posted on the forum that they sold all of their MEFI related fuel injection stuff to Painless Wiring about a year ago.

The MEFI controllers were originally developed for marine use. They are small and rugged. I have mine mounted just above the passenger side valve cover and it has almost 35,000 miles on it with no heat related problems.

I am using MEFI tuning software made by OBD Diagnostics ( MEFIBurn.com ). I think the software used by MSD was made by Ingenious Software. The folks at OBD Diagnostics are very familiar with tuning these controllers and they also have a lot of experience using them on LS type engines.

The Ingenious software supposedly allows the use of a wide band O2 sensor with the MEFI4b, but the 0v-5v wide band signal is divided by 4 to let the MEFI controller see the input as a 0v-1.2v signal, essentially the same as the narrow band. I have been working to try and get the MEFI to be able to see the full 5v range of the wide band, but project is going slowly on my end. A wide band cannot be driven directly by the MEFI computer and must have it’s own controller.

The GM MEFI controllers came from the factory set to run very rich. The best mileage I could get from my engine with the MEFI4a and the narrow band O2 sensor was about 26mpg. Using the tuning software and a LM-1 wide band I am getting almost 30mpg now.

I would suggest that if you are having someone else set up your engine that you check to see if he is using a wide band for tuning, otherwise he is just guessing.

Charles


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