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From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
Balancer install
I assume you do not have a drilled & tapped crank. The balancer goes on until it bottoms out on the crank snout. If you're hitting it with a hammer and a block of wood, you usually can feel when it hits home.
Some cranks are not nose drilled and tapped.. Hammering these on is the only way...
Harry
THAT IS ABSOLUTELY CORRECT!!!
It was not until later in the 60s when cranks were drilled/tapped for a bolt. Thus, prior to that, there are only two choices, drive it on with a soft block and a heavy hammer, or, have the snout drilled/tapped.
I have never seen it done at the engine plant, but it would be interesting to know how balancers were installed prior to when the crank was drilled/tapped.
Maybe John Z (Hinkley) can tell us.
I have never seen it done at the engine plant, but it would be interesting to know how balancers were installed prior to when the crank was drilled/tapped.
Tom Parsons
A pneumatic cylinder pushed against the balancer with a set of jaws that grabbed the front counterweight and pushed the balancer on.
As I have said before, I learn something from the forum every day. I remember being told about not too hammer a balancer on back in the '80's. I have built three SB motors and I used my K-D installation tool. Just the thought of pounding one on gives me shivers. Dennis
tx63..
my 283,balancer/timing cover measures not quite 1' ( maybe 3/4 th's-to-7/8th's) from the cover to the back of the balancer..and the timing tab is (about) 1 1/2 " long, and my balancer is half way under it...my crank is drilled and i have a bolt in it.
hope this helps.
john.
Last edited by john5801; Apr 8, 2011 at 01:06 PM.
Reason: word
Best way is to measure from the face of the balancer to the machined surface on the front of the block. This surface includes the timing chain cover, the power steering pump bracket holes, and two holes on the lower left front of the block. The measurement I come up with is 2.937"..(2 15/16").
Ok, thought maybe was something that I was unaware of that would allow me to press on.
While I dont feel like I whacked on it too hard, is there anything that would indicate I may have damaged the rear thrust bearing?
In order to damage a thrust bearing, you have to move the weight balancer, crankshaft, rods, flywheel and clutch, plus enough extra force to damage the thrust flange on the crank.
I don't think you'll do that with a two pound hammer.