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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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Default U joints

I am in the process of putting a zz4 crate with a tremec 5sp in my 66. It had a 327, 300hp powerglide. It will have a little over 400ft lbs of torque - not a lot, but a lot more than it had. All torque does is find the weakest link in the drivetrain and destroy that part. As soon as I can get the damn crossmember bushings to pop loose, the differential is going in for a rebuild. I am researching what kind of u-joints to use. Some think that it weakens the joint it if is drilled for a grease fitting, other don't. I was hoping to hear some opinions and some real life experiences.
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 01:05 PM
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We are happy too provide input, but have you done a search on this? It has been recently discussed. Dennis
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 01:36 PM
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I guess I don't have the thread search feature fully sorted out. I did a search before I posted and didn't find anything specific to mid years. Sorry for the repetition
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rgbau140
I guess I don't have the thread search feature fully sorted out. I did a search before I posted and didn't find anything specific to mid years. Sorry for the repetition

Not to worry. It takes a bit of Forum experience before the search feature becomes obvious.

There are plenty who will be happy to answer your questions.

Repetition is the name of the game here. If people stopped asking questions? The Forum would be pretty dull.

Welcome to the Forum.
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 02:15 PM
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If you use a grease-able U joint, make sure the zerk is placed in the compression position during installation. That will eliminate most of any weaknesses.

Doug
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
If you use a grease-able U joint, make sure the zerk is placed in the compression position during installation. That will eliminate most of any weaknesses.
Doug
I'm not that familiar with what that means, so I'm curious enough to ask what that actually means....
Thanks in Advance,
RK
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RoadKing96
I'm not that familiar with what that means, so I'm curious enough to ask what that actually means....
Thanks in Advance,
RK
About as simply as I can explain it without a picture . . . . . . that means that when power is applied to the rear wheels to move the car forward, the arm of the cross connected to the differential should rotate towards the zerk, not be trying to pull away from the zerk.

Naturally, the cross at the spindle should also be installed so as to place the zerk in compression when power is being applied.

??????????????

Last edited by Ron Miller; Apr 9, 2011 at 03:40 PM. Reason: Two Joints per Wheel
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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U-joints with no grease fits are the strongest and unless you drive thru deep water they will probably last for as long as you own the car
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
If you use a grease-able U joint, make sure the zerk is placed in the compression position during installation. That will eliminate most of any weaknesses.

Doug
That's the way I've installed them and NEVER had a failure, even on BB cars.

Jim
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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The newest Spicer heavy duty u-joints are stronger and do not have the zerk fitting or the internal holes for the grease to travel in. The seals on these new Spicers are life-time guaranteed IIRC.

The mid-years take the 1310 u-joints in the drive shaft and 1350s in the half-shafts.

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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:17 PM
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If you're going to all that effort and expense, you might want to spend a few extra $ for big block stub axle flanges for your differential. Your new motor is in big block torque territory.
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