I looked the car today and I liked it. The underneath was very clean and showed no evidence of the body ever being off. It ran and drove well for what it is. I have the contact information of the second owner that had the car from 1975 to about 2009 or so. I will call him tomorrow. The third owner we talked to today. He said what others have said and that is there were some 1967 cars with 942 blocks. His argument is that the block was cast in Oct 66 and they were not making any model year 66's then. His other point was only a fool would go through the trouble to fake the numbers and leave so much controversy. The evidence suggests this is not the correct block but it is not 100% provable. The manifolds are also dated October. When I go to sell this car, this same controversy will surround this car and I don't think it's worth it. It has the tank sticker that is still glued to a piece of the tank that was saved after the tank was replaced. I can't read it and have no way of knowing if it actually came off this car.

Here are some of the pictures. Some other points are the machine marks visible on the stamp pad run front to back and there is gooey stuff on the fuel line where it runs along the frame near the right exhaust manifold.

 

Beyond any doubt, that block had been re-stamped (and done so very poorly).

 

I'm learning here and just starting my quest for a mid-year. What is the evidence that tells you it was restamped?

 

Here's a picture of an original stamping for comparison.

 

I can see the difference and your car was built just prior this one. Shame

 

I'm no expert either, but I would question it due to the lack of any visible broach marks and the partial VIN looks to be individually stamped (not gang stamped) with the wrong font ?

 

Size, shape, and registration of the VIN derivative is not standard for production. I am not sure about the trim tag, either. I would take a close look at that using the NCRS manual as a reference. I am far from an expert on trim tags, but I think the rivets look slightly irregular and I was not aware that "STD" could have a period as in "STD." on 67 tags. I am sure others here can comment further on the authenticity of the tag and whether the body number is correct for a coupe with a body build date of E06 (my 427 roadster is D22 / S2441), and of course coupes and roadsters had separate serial sequences.

 

The period after STD seems correct as other trim tags have it. The car was originally a powerglide sun fire yellow. In 1975 or so, a 4 speed was installed and it was painted black. He has pictures of it from a long time ago and it was yellow and I can see yellow paint on a small chip on the door jamb. It also has the hood prop on the left side and the front license plate holder is mounted to the side indicating an auto car. I'm not concerned with the trim tags, only the motor at this point.

 

Larry

 

So it could have re-stamped after a rebuild right? It was told to me that they were the original numbers. So what about the 942 casting number from October 66? Is it likely that the date code was tampered with? Was the 942 block used in any other car than the corvette? What about the fact that no 66 cars were being built in oct 66? Is that relevant? I'm not getting the car now but I'm interested in this story.

 

the 942 block was used in the 66 chevy line that year only and very early 67's, everything else when it comes to your issues is pure speculation as the numbers have been tampered with, so who really knows ??........

 

I guess that's the bottom line and I would have to deal with all of this when I go tO sell it. Come to think of it, I didn't look at the casting date nor do I Have a picture.

 

If there were '67 cars with 942 blocks they would have been built in August or early Sept at the best

His point about only a fool would fake the numbers is correct as it looks like a fool did the restamping.As far as the Oct.'66 cast date did you look at the date? Are you sure it is not Oct '65?

 

I did not lay eyes on the cast date code so I cannot verify.

 

If I understand correctly, there is no documentation at all with the car?
With a faked pad and no docs, there is no way to prove that it was born a big block car.
If you do want to buy it anyway, pay the price of a NOM SB car that now has a BB in it, IMHO that's all it's worth.



Paul

 

Update: I talked to the guy who was the second owner. He sold the car in 1987 and there were 6 owners since him! He rebuilt the original engine and converted it to 4 bolt mains by a machine shop called Sterling in Kansas City. He said pull the pan and see if it's a 4 bolt main with an engraved main cap that says sterling. He claims the car was correct and he never restamped anything. He sold it for $12500. He said he gets calls every now and then about the motor. He said one owner told him that someone ground the block. He also heard it was in pieces at one point. Nothing adds up on this rig and I am glad I did my homework. The former owner told me not to F@&k with the car, his words not mine! Funny thing is I got the number from the dealer currently selling it.

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

Between the engine (wrong casting number) and transmission (missing Powerglide), it would take a minimum 500-point hit right off the bat in judging, before looking at any of the other details, and would probably cost $15K to correct just those two issues.