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What has to be moved to get the Muncie out? I have a 66 with a BB and I can't seem to get enough room to get the imput shaft out of the bellhousing. All the linkage is off and even the side cover. Can I loosen the bellhousing and do it? If I took an inch or two out of the fiberglass at the shifter opening it would probably rotate better and come out? I dropped the engine an inch or so (as far as I want to ) and the shaft is still .5 " or so inside the bellhousing? Do I loosen the motor mounts? Appreciate any help !!
In removing the T-10 from my '58 I remember having to do the following. I assume the same caveats would follow on a C2. We took out the drive shaft and removed the shifter assembly completely. Then there were the four? bolts securing the tranny to the bellhousing. Came out really easy after that.
Oh, yeah, the way the motor is supported you'll need to brace the block somehow and then drop the crossmember which supports the tranny. On the C1 aynway the block is supported with motor mounts up front and then the removable frame cross member under the tranny... and that's IT!
Had mine out to do the Hurst shifter install. I had the advantage of a lift to do this but I understand the issue as the trans cross member is fixed. I too, removed the shifter as well as the transmission mount as well as the trans mount support to the frame. Doing all this and rotating the trans still was not enough to clear that bell housing . I had to let the bellhousing drop enough to allow me to use a pry bar on the input shaft to clear the bellhousing. It is a tight in and out venture. I hope you have a lift or enough maneurering room under your car so you can exert some leverage to do this.
DON'T FORCE IT. One procedure is to remove all but 1 of the 3 motor mount bolts on each side, remove the tach cable, make a wooden U shaped jig to straddle the pan and lower the rear of the engine (best control with a sizzor jack) while lowering the nose of the trans.
The other is to unbolt the clutch housing and remove it at the same time.
...this takes some patience....once you pull the tranny back, the engine tilts backwards, not leaving enough room to have the input shaft clear the bell housing....you will get it out but it is TIGHT....turn the tranny so that the case cover points downward, pulling it backward at the same time and i lifted the end of the bell housing just a bit with a floor jack to get the tranny up and the engine more level...the input shaft will then JUST clear the bellhousing and drop REALLY quickly so be prepared
Hey guys --thanks a lot for the info on the different approaches ! I got tied up and it's still in the car. I have the back of the pan supported with a 6" long 2x4. with a scissor jack.. I just didn't know how far I can let the engine down without hurting the mounts ? And Dave I guess taking the bolts out of the mount will help with letting it down. I wanted to take off the bellhousing first as it looks like it could slide out as the tranny goes down . I hadn't even loosened the mount bolts yet? thanks again ----damn the Richmond looks big compared to the Muncie!!
Just unbolt the bell housing and drop it with the gearbox until the pilot shaft clears. You'll need a helper or two, but it's a piece o' cake. Reverse the procedure to install.
Better to loosen the mounts than to twist them. They are a PITA to replace. If the left one breaks, you get to see if the restraint keeps the air cleaner and alternator brace out of the hood.
I quit using a board under the pan when I had to buy a new pan ($$$). A U shaped wood assembly that straddles the pan and supports the block at the pan bolt surface can be made from scrap wood in 20-30 minutes.
Once you get everything unbolted, shifter out etc and a jack under the back of the engine the secret is to lift the tail back to the drivers side and tilt the trans UP out of the bellhousing to the Pass side of the car. This will get the input shaft clear of the bell housing and you can let it tilt down beside the pass side of the bellhousing and out of the car. When I took mine out the first time I did it this way but did not think to remember how I did it. Took me two days to figure it out when I put it back in(It came out SO easy???).
As Duke said, I remove my transmission and the bell housing, together. Don't forget that the transmission must be rotated about 90 degrees to remove it. Once the bolts are out of the bell housing, rotate the transmission and start to slide it back. Of course, the shifter, shifter mounting, and shift rods must be off.
Gary
Remember, you can't get these rare oil pans any more - they were discontinued about four years ago, so you don't want to jack up and support the engine at the oil pan. Here's a high-tech "saddle" tool I made years ago from a 2x6 (for the base, where the jack goes) and 1x6's (for the sides) that snuggles up to the side of the pan and supports the engine on the pan bolts - the notch is for the dipstick tube. I work mostly on C1's, which require holding up the engine to change the water pump, so this has been really handy.