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strut rods question

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Old May 11, 2011 | 10:44 AM
  #1  
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Default strut rods question

63 small block car has curved strut rods and one seems more
curved than the other. was thinking to get adjustable units from zip
and noticed all are straight with no bend.

should mine not be curved, and if not anyone know why mine are>?

also vibration out back and will change all u joints to see if this helps.

note this car was recently purchased from you know who in ohio,
so im sorting things out.

fred
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Old May 11, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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A lot of times people ( garages ) use the struts as a jacking point and bend them.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 11:01 AM
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There are NO "curved strut rods"....period! Someone has jacked your car up using the strut rod as a jacking point. I recommend using the adjustable strut rod you mention, as long as your car is a driver, and not an NCRS trailer queen. The adjustable strut rods don't have to be disconnected to adjust, and stay in the adjusted position, whereas the stock rods can come out of adjustment on jounce due to the rubber grommet moving on the adjusting cam.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 11:52 AM
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will replace with adjustable units . good to know they should not be curved.

do i keep the adjusting cam, in place and just install new adjustable strut rods?

fredski
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Old May 11, 2011 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fredski
63 small block car has curved strut rods...

should mine not be curved, and if not anyone know why mine are>?

fred
As the rear end yokes wear, the top of the rear tires move in, creating negative camber. As the strut rod bushings wear, the bottom of the rear tires move out, creating more negative camber. After rear end components have worn so much that the negative camber can no longer be adjusted out with the cam bolt, some alignment shops resort to bending the strut rods to make them shorter so they can adjust the camber back into spec.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 12:11 PM
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If you really feel the need for the adjustable strut rods, stay away from the version with poly bushings. These are known to come loose and self-adjust while driving.

Strut rods are subjected to considerable torsional load as the suspension moves through it's full travel. The poly bushings attempt to inhibit this movement which results in one or both jam nuts losing their torque.

There's nothing wrong with stock strut rods and OEM rubber bushings.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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Default strut rods

Originally Posted by Mike Ward
If you really feel the need for the adjustable strut rods, stay away from the version with poly bushings. These are known to come loose and self-adjust while driving.

Strut rods are subjected to considerable torsional load as the suspension moves through it's full travel. The poly bushings attempt to inhibit this movement which results in one or both jam nuts losing their torque.

There's nothing wrong with stock strut rods and OEM rubber bushings.

good to know about poly bushings. thanks for that information.

fred
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Old May 11, 2011 | 02:41 PM
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Default Dumb question time.......mine!

OK, I'll show my ignorance and ask! Am I the only one who didn't recognize the term "strut rods" in conjunction with a mid year vette?

I've owned my '67 for 40 years and never heard that term, even when I had the rear suspension rebuilt. I always heard them called "rear suspension upper links" or something similar.

It wasn't until I read post #5 that I realized what the discussion was about, and then - DUH!


I guess I've gotten so used to newer car/suspension terminology, like "Chapman struts", "nitrogen pressurized struts", etc that I came to think of an automotive strut in those terms alone.

Wow - 40 years later and still learning something new!


and............no, mine are not curved!

Last edited by tuxnharley; May 11, 2011 at 02:43 PM.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by fredski
good to know about poly bushings. thanks for that information.

fred
If the end bushings are still good in your strut rods, you can put them in a press and straighten them.

Or you could just leave them alone. If you replace or repair, you'll probably have to have the camber reset at some cost.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fredski
will replace with adjustable units . good to know they should not be curved.

do i keep the adjusting cam, in place and just install new adjustable strut rods?

fredski
I recommend heim jointed strut rods with clevis type adjustment. Yes they will eventually wear like everything else, but I have used two sets in 30 years of racing.
Rear camber is adjustable not just for wear, but because different people have different needs for rear camber at different times. Drag racers usually use initial positive camber because the camber goes negative under squat (jounce) at launch. The positive camber thus allows the wide/flat drag tire to stay flat under launch conditions. On the other hand, negative camber usually is beneficial for track events because it allows the tire to maintain full contact even though the car is leaned over in the turn. Note that most people who drive with non stock camber return their camber to stock specifications for street driving to and from the track.... because of tire wear considerations.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tuxnharley
OK, I'll show my ignorance and ask! Am I the only one who didn't recognize the term "strut rods" in conjunction with a mid year
It's far from a new or newly fashionable term. All of the Chevy literature since 63 has called them strut rods (shop manuals and parts books). In 40 years of restoring and racing C2 and C3 Corvettes, I have rarely heard another term used!

Harry
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Old May 11, 2011 | 04:50 PM
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From: DFW
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Originally Posted by fredski
will replace with adjustable units . good to know they should not be curved.

do i keep the adjusting cam, in place and just install new adjustable strut rods?

fredski
The kit will come with bolts and rectangular plates to replace the adjusting cam/eccentric

Harry
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