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Note that their Turbo Diesel oil is also rated for SM and SL spark engine application. It has 1200 ppm zinc and the 5w-40 viscosity provides quick start-up lube (important if the engine has sat for a while) while the 40 weight is plenty for any street engine. Probably any racing engine also.
gee......I liked the end of the world posts in the thread better then this oil stuff
seriously, there have been some very informative posts in the past here & at NCRS from qualified, older (than me) experts (I won't name them for fear of leaving someone out) that have made the point that what's going on here is mental masturbation.
OTOH...most of my posts r exactly that......so......never mind......
69427, On the mobile website, 15w50 synthetic was the ONLY oil they recommended for RACING applications. Racing cars see far more abuse than any road car will ever see. Synthetics flow better than normal oils and have the same viscosity. I put normal 80w140 gear oil in an old truck 4sp manual trans and almost bent the shifter trying to shift it in 10F. I then put synthetic amsoil 80w140 in a modern 5sp manual truck trans and hardly noticed a difference shifting in the cold 10F or hot temps. The 0w40 will flow better. But once the engine warms up to 180F, you'll want the thicker oil protecting the piston rings and cylinder wall. Ask race car teams if they use 0w40. Ask diesel truck drivers if they use 15w40 normal oil or 5w40 synthetic shell oil.
I only see a problem if your starting the motor in below zeroF temps and your using NORMAL, anything with a 50 in it oil. I have a new 40hp diesel tractor with normal diesel 15w40 in it. At 20F below zero, it did start. But it really made a lot of noise, more than it normally does.
I looked up oil viscosity charts. oils starts getting really thick from 0F to below 40F. Of course the lower weights do better in this low temp environment. SYNTHETICS, even with a 50 rating should be fine at any cold temp.
69427, I didn't see all the mobile 1 specs(please read 427435 post below your reply to me). 15w50 is the only one recommended for HT/HS req and flat tappets. HT/HS stands for viscosity at high temp/ high shear conditions. They do recommend a racing 0w30 and 0w50 for racing. The 0w30 is for fuel savings. They both have higher zinc in them than 15w50..
Why take ANY chances? In my C1: I use Mobil-1 full synthetic 15W-50W because it’s formulated for the older, "Flat Tappets" cars (only the 15W50 is over 1300ppm ZDDP) w/Mobil-1 “spin-on” filter #M1-111. No need to buy or add any other additives & it's easy to find.
Do you find the motor to clatter during start up with the 15w50 since its 15 weight at start up, till the oil pump gets the oil circulating? Do you feal the 50 wieght gives you to high an oil pressure once the motor is up to temp?
Do you find the motor to clatter during start up with the 15w50 since its 15 weight at start up, till the oil pump gets the oil circulating? Do you feal the 50 wieght gives you to high an oil pressure once the motor is up to temp?
lance
I only drive it in the summer months so it’s usually above 70*; No chatter, it's the original motor that I rebuilt 5-years ago so I'm running around 70psi for oil pressure with the synthetic oil. Also, we now have ethanol-free fuel available in the area again so it’s running like a new car again.
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