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Old May 29, 2011 | 09:49 AM
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Default coolent flush

i flushed the cooling system on my '65 yesterday but when I looked for the freeze plugs they were not the kind you can unscrew. They were pressed in. Am I looking at the right place?
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Old May 29, 2011 | 09:59 AM
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If you are referring to the drain plugs, they are centered on each side of the block, a little above the oil pan. Centered right behind center of exhaust manifold. They are pipe thread, and can be a real booger to get off if it hasn't been done recently. Recommend replacing with an allen head plug with anti seize. I wouldn't mess with the freeze plugs unless they were giving you trouble.

For sure, you can have heating issues if you do not remove the drain plugs as all kinds of crud get built up in there, and you may have to "joog" it out to get it draining.

If your system is really dirty, recommend draining it (plugs as well), flush with water, refill with heavy duty cleaner and water, drive it about 50 miles, repeat, keep flushing until it is real clear, and then do the 50/50 with distilled water.
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Old May 29, 2011 | 10:04 AM
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You need to look for the drain plug bolts on each side of the block. They drain the water jackets. One is near the front of the starter, just above the oil pan to block joint. Then one on the other side. See picture. Use a six point socket and make sure the socket is on all the way. Some break loose easily and others not.
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Old May 29, 2011 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by xsray
i flushed the cooling system on my '65 yesterday but when I looked for the freeze plugs they were not the kind you can unscrew. They were pressed in. Am I looking at the right place?
Freeze plugs are pressed in. The other guys have pointed you correctly towards drain plugs.
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Old May 29, 2011 | 10:36 AM
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As said, use a 6 point socket!!!

Don't be suprised if they are frozen...some junk inthe bottom of the passages won't hurt anything

Good Luck...
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Old May 29, 2011 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Redbird
One is near the front of the starter, just above the oil pan to block joint.
You really ought to install that starter brace.
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Old May 29, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mikem350
As said, use a 6 point socket!!!

Don't be suprised if they are frozen...some junk inthe bottom of the passages won't hurt anything

Good Luck...
The crud in my block definitely made a difference, I had tried everything to include a valve job and it still overheated. I then removed the drain plugs, dug out the crud, problem went away. The crud when dried looks just like scale buildup in your home water pipes.

Guess I should get a starter brace as well.....
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Old May 29, 2011 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
You really ought to install that starter brace.

On 58-62's, only Powerglide cars had them.

Jim

Last edited by 1snake; May 29, 2011 at 02:35 PM.
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Old May 29, 2011 | 08:36 PM
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So you can get a screwdriver or other tool into that tiny hole in the block and get significant crud out of there? I have a similar overheating problem and flushing doesn't help.
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Old May 29, 2011 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CJS
So you can get a screwdriver or other tool into that tiny hole in the block and get significant crud out of there? I have a similar overheating problem and flushing doesn't help.
Oh hell yes you can! I would VERY much suggest removing those side drain bolts, sticking a hose into your radiator where you cap goes and use a rag to seal it, then having someone hold it as tight as they can while you work the hose bib. Crank it FULL blast and watch TONS of crap come out of there. Also take a short, small, flat head screw driver and stick it into each holes and wiggle it around. You will feel pieces of crud dump out onto your hand and you will also feel that the screw driver tip is moving around and breaking up pieces that would not normally just fall out. Turn the hose off for about 30 seconds til the water is drained out, then quick hit it full blast again. Do the screw in the holes again. Repeat this about 5-10 times. You can stop only when the flow of water out of the drains holes is perfect solid round and flows clear with no bubbles. You will see what I mean.

I also then removed my thermostat, put the housing back on, then put on the radiator cap and put the hose into the housing and seal it there with a rag and do this entire process there as well from that direction. Do NOT do this direction first though and you will push all the crap into your water pump and radiator.

I would also keep the radiator petcock open so it can drain during this entire process to allow small pieces that might get stuck on the bottom of the radiator to escape.

When done take a look at all the rust colored sand and dust (and maybe chunks!) that washed out all over onto the ground. You won't believe it!

Last edited by 92GTA; May 29, 2011 at 10:31 PM.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 08:19 AM
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GTA, Thanks so much! I will give that an honest go!
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Old May 30, 2011 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 92GTA



When done take a look at all the rust colored sand and dust (and maybe chunks!) that washed out all over onto the ground. You won't believe it!
GTA described it well. I even kept a sample in a gojo container for show and tell. The problem is that if there is no circulation, you can't flush it out as the flow is dead heading in that portion of the engine. Once you get the flow started, keep at it until all the crud is gone.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 08:46 PM
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I used a short piece of a coat hangar in the hole as water was coming through.
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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thanks, I knew I was looking at the wrong thing from the description of previous posts. I'll also try getting the scale (crud) out.
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