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I'm installing a blow-proof bellhousing with a motor plate in my '63. How critical are the dimensions of the block to the top of the pivot ball (4.75")? Mine is off about 3/16" (too short) because of the block plate.
It is a used bell and it came with the plate and the ball, so who ever had it before me obviously used it as is. Will the 3/16" make a noticeable difference? I want to put this thing back together and don't really want to wait for the part to be ordered.
I'm installing a blow-proof bellhousing with a motor plate in my '63. How critical are the dimensions of the block to the top of the pivot ball (4.75")? Mine is off about 3/16" (too short) because of the block plate.
It is a used bell and it came with the plate and the ball, so who ever had it before me obviously used it as is. Will the 3/16" make a noticeable difference? I want to put this thing back together and don't really want to wait for the part to be ordered.
Two thing feed into the setting of the height, the thickness of the block plate and the thickness of the flywheel. Some of the vendors use their own off the wall flywheel thickness, like Hays.
The block plate should be about .130 thick. I set these up setting on the bench, and lucky me I have a snapp gauge I can setup and get the ball height correct.
You need to correct it or deal with clutch issues when it's all together.
Two thing feed into the setting of the height, the thickness of the block plate and the thickness of the flywheel. Some of the vendors use their own off the wall flywheel thickness, like Hays.
The block plate should be about .130 thick. I set these up setting on the bench, and lucky me I have a snapp gauge I can setup and get the ball height correct.
You need to correct it or deal with clutch issues when it's all together.
The ball should adjust enough to fix the problem.
I WOULD HAVE TO GRIND THE TOP FLANGE OFF THE PIVOT BALL TO LET ME SCREW IT IN 3/16" FARTHER. (Oops, sorry about the caps, I have to look at the keys when I type.) I actually was thinking about doing that, but I thought I would ask if you all thought there would be any problem doing that. It seems like there would still be about half of the threads engaged and I would use some lock-tite also.
I also tried to get the longer one (GM makes 2, a long and a short), but I couldn't find a parts house that listed the longer one.
Looking at the picture of the adjustable one, it looks like after grinding the flange off and setting the ball in deeper, I'll have as many threads engaged as the adjustable one has to begin with. So as long as I lock it in place, I really can't see any reason it wouldn't work.
IIWM, I'd call some local parts stores for an adjustable pivot ball or order one and wait a day or two for it to arrive. If you don't get it right, you will have clutch engagement and/or adjustment problems and you won't know until the car is back together.