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C2 LS1 Conversion List

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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 03:17 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by John McGraw
The LS3 injection and intake will only fit LS3 and other late engines like the L99 and L76. The heads on these engines, which have only been built since 2007, are different from earlier engines.

The LS1 injection and intake will only work on GenIII engines built from 97 through 2006.

If you want to use an earlier LT style engine, you will need to use the LT style injection.

IMHO, trying to put LS3 injection on a earlier engine would be akin to putting a $500 saddle on a $50 horse. The LS is such a great engine for a number of reasons and it works well as a complete system. Trying to cobble together an engine using parts from different generations, will just lead to heartache and an engine that won't perform up to your expectations.

I have a bone-stock LS2 engine in my 65 and it is more power than almost anyone could ever want, and way more power than the 245 tires can put to the ground. I have a LS3 in my 67 Chevelle station wagon and it is downright scary! Even with 285 tires, the tires go up in smoke at a touch of the throttle. Even my 59 with a LS1 is a handfull at full throttle.

Find yourself a good pullout engine or buy a new crate engine, and you will have years of fun boiling the hides off your rear wheels! The LS swap is a little work, but the end result is a car that gets good fuel economy, has incredible bottom end torque, starts the first crank every time, is dependable as the day is long, and will make enough power to scare most people.
They will not be the least expensive option, but they sure are fun!



Regards, John McGraw
The LS3/L92/LS9 etc square port heads need a 4" bore block so they will go on a 6.0 LS2/LQ4/LQ9.

The older cathedral style heads came on the LS1/LS6/5.3s/LQ4/LQ9/LS2 etc.

The intake must match the cylinder heads.

Cam and crank reluctor wheels must match the PCM being used or Lingenfelter has a box may adapt the signals.

5.7 is a 3.9" bore, 6.0s are 4" bore, and 6.2 are 4.06" bore. All are 3.622" stroke

For guys not so up on the swap my heads and cam C5 did 31mpg from Atlanta to Orlando and the cam lope had many C2 guys saying "I had a car that sounded like that" including most important my father who had a hot 327 67 ragtop.

Last edited by 93Polo; Jun 24, 2011 at 03:21 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 05:22 PM
  #22  
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Default Ls3 issues

I just purchased a crate ls3 to put in my 67 roadster and attach to the tko600 in it. I would like to use my orginial gauges if possible. I have converted to electric tach that was tied to msd ignition in previous engine. Will it work with ls3? The speedo is ok as it is already attached to the tko. Can i use my original big block oil line and temp sender with the ls3?


What about heater hoses from water pump in stock frame. Do they need to be modified?


I have a big block dewitts rad with dual fans. Outlets are different size than ls3. Can i get them modified at a rad shop and save buying a new rad?
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 07:10 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by NOHA
I just purchased a crate ls3 to put in my 67 roadster and attach to the tko600 in it. I would like to use my orginial gauges if possible. I have converted to electric tach that was tied to msd ignition in previous engine. Will it work with ls3? The speedo is ok as it is already attached to the tko. Can i use my original big block oil line and temp sender with the ls3?


What about heater hoses from water pump in stock frame. Do they need to be modified?


I have a big block dewitts rad with dual fans. Outlets are different size than ls3. Can i get them modified at a rad shop and save buying a new rad?
You should be able to use this to use the tach that you had modified to electronic.
http://www.autometer.com/tach-adapter.html

There are two places you can get oil pressure/temp from with your original senders. You and get it from the back of the block on top where the stock LS3 pressure sender is, they made adapters for those locations, they are pretty cheap from certain auction sites. Second you can get oil temp with the same adapter from the port on the side of the block, drivers side right behind the timing cover. You could tee both into one location as well. Personally I would take the time to convert the gage to electric and no longer have an oil line running into the cockpit, but that is me.

Heater hoses will hit if you use them in the stock location. If they don't hit, it will make it a serious PITA to align the car. You can pull out the plugs and put in AN fittings then us a 90 or a 45 to relocate them. Other option is to fill the holes and tap a different location on the pump for the heater hoses.

Finally, you can probably have a radiator shop modify your radiator, if it had enough capacity for your big block, it is likely find for your LS3.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 07:13 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by NOHA
and attach to the tko600 in it.
One more heads up... if you are going to convert to a hydraulic clutch, be sure you address the firewall issue BEFORE you put the motor back in the car. If anyone tells you that you don't need to reinforce it.. they are lying to you...

It is a serious hassle to try to do it with the engine in the car after the fact.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 11:11 PM
  #25  
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I got my low mile LS1 and six speed (yes I cut the tunnel) for $5500 complete with harness and computer. Added a hotcam and absolutely love the package.


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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 08:50 AM
  #26  
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Thanks for the excellent info. Any thoughts on wether the Tac will work?
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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 09:38 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by NOHA
Thanks for the excellent info. Any thoughts on wether the Tac will work?
First part of my post.
With the adapter it should work.

We run an autometer in our 65 and it works fine.

If you need something programmed or adjusted just let me know and I can take care of it for you. You would just have to send me your PCM.

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