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61 front end problems

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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 07:48 AM
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Default 61 front end problems

Sunday I put my 61 on my lift to check a squeek and this is what I found. Suprising the car did not pull and it tracked straight.

As I jousted the car I noticed the lower shock brackets were moving up and down.
Not good, will new new ones.



The upper bushings were rotating inside the upper A and that was my squeek.


This is the lower pivot bolt.


The bushing is so worn it started to crack. I had to grind it down to get it out.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 07:53 AM
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I would do a complete front end rebuild!
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:00 AM
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There is a pair on ebay right now for decent $$$:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1953-...item35b36b4844
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:05 AM
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I just tore down my 67 for similar issues...front A-arm cross shafts were literally "loose"...the rubber bushings wasted away and the rear had issues as well.

Sending front A-arms and trailing arms to Yogi Bairs for refurb.

Cheers,

Frank
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 10:01 AM
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Default link for rebuild artical by Tom Parson

Originally Posted by plaidside
Sunday I put my 61 on my lift to check a squeek and this is what I found. Suprising the car did not pull and it tracked straight.

As I jousted the car I noticed the lower shock brackets were moving up and down.
Not good, will new new ones.



The upper bushings were rotating inside the upper A and that was my squeek.


This is the lower pivot bolt.


The bushing is so worn it started to crack. I had to grind it down to get it out.

Here is a link to an artical Tom Parson wrote on rebuilding the C1 front end with lots of pictures.


http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/218134/
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 10:07 AM
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Looks like the shock mounts were installed incorrectly at one time. The front lip must go into the A-arm correctly or the will break at the mounting bolt every time.

Jim
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 10:22 AM
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Wow looking at Toms write up brings back memories. I did the front end maybe 15 or so years ago. I always enjoy reading Toms write ups. There also must be something wrong with me because I laugh at how worn out stuff gets, how primitive our cars are. Nothing like examining stuff to see how it works or how much use it was able to take. I guess that's why I'm a mechanical technician here at work. I love to take stuff apart and put it back together. Although usually here it's just put together and it's all new and clean.

Gordon
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 1snake
Looks like the shock mounts were installed incorrectly at one time. The front lip must go into the A-arm correctly or the will break at the mounting bolt every time.

Jim
Yup, I had one like that and that was the cause. If you are using especially new reproductions, be sure that they are sitting flat and square before lightning them down.



Paul
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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Thanks for all the replys.
When I removed the shock mounts they were in correctly but that doesn't mean they were in wrong at some previous time.
I might have to replace the lower arms also because where the mounting tabs of the brackets sits in the A frame is also worn too thin.
I bought a complete front end from a passenger car a few years ago just in case I needed any parts. I will probally use all the parts from that unit. It appears to have be rebuilt not long before I bought it.
Joe

Last edited by plaidside; Jul 6, 2011 at 01:23 PM.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 01:32 PM
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EVERYONE,
JUST A REMINDER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


The upper and lower A-frames and the lower shock mount bracket for 53-62 Vettes are EXACTLY the same parts used on 49-54 pass cars!

Why am I telling you this?
Because if you shop for Vette parts, the prices will be sky high.
But if you shop for 49-54 pass car parts, the prices will be reasonable!!!!
Got that?

P.S. If you cannot find a good used upper A-frame, the hole(s) for the inner shaft bushing(s) can be repaired by having a VERY PROFICIENT welder run a bead inside the hole. Then, using a die grinder and a rotary file or small grind stone, CAREFULLY grind down the weld bead. Then use the OLD bushing to re-establish the threads in the hole(s). Don't use a new bushing, because the threads of the old bushing will probably be slightly smaller than the threads of a new bushing. Thus, when you screw in a new bushing, it will be VERY tight, as it should be.

Tom Parsons
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 04:26 PM
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Thanks for the reply Tom.
I have a complete front end out of a passenger car although I do not know what year it is.
I read somewhere that the spindle supports are different. I compared the Vette support to the one I took off the front end and they appear to be the same.
In the picture the Vette on is on top.
Are the spindles different also?
How are the repro shock mounts?

Thanks,
Joe

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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by racecar14
Here is a link to an artical Tom Parson wrote on rebuilding the C1 front end with lots of pictures.


http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/218134/
our roads do not help Joe , I just changed my shocks and found one side has same broken tab , put a washer over it for now , as for front end i was lucky all restored by last owner ! my squeak is that fan shroud .thanks again on the distributor . it made a difference .
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
There is a pair on ebay right now for decent $$$:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1953-...item35b36b4844
Used to be you could buy these things from NAPA. But, it has been awhile since I bought any so they may not have them anymore.
160
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 1COOL60
Used to be you could buy these things from NAPA. But, it has been awhile since I bought any so they may not have them anymore.
160
Or 5 mins. with a welder and a grinder and they'll be as good as new and last many decades as long as YOU INSTALL THEM CORRECTLY.

Jim
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by plaidside
Thanks for all the replys.
When I removed the shock mounts they were in correctly but that doesn't mean they were in wrong at some previous time.
I might have to replace the lower arms also because where the mounting tabs of the brackets sits in the A frame is also worn too thin.
I bought a complete front end from a passenger car a few years ago just in case I needed any parts. I will probally use all the parts from that unit. It appears to have be rebuilt not long before I bought it.
Joe
Joe,
Yes, there is a difference. The 49-52 pass car spindle supports and 53-62 Vette spindle supports are the same. The 53-54 pass car spindle supports have the knuckle for the king pin about 1in higher up, which would LOWER the car. So, for a quick lowering of your frontend with factory parts, just install 53-54 pass car spindle supports (difference shown below).
No, there is no difference in pass car and Vette spindles.
The difference between pass car and Vette frontends is the steering (center arm and L&R arms). Everything else interchanges.



Tom Parsons
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by plaidside
Sunday I put my 61 on my lift to check a squeek and this is what I found. Suprising the car did not pull and it tracked straight.[COLOR="Red"][SIZE="4"]
That looks a lot like mine did 15 years ago before i rebuilt it (pulled entire front cross member off).

My car tracked straight too, but it sure was better at not wanting to switch lanes unexpectedly on rutted pavement once I got everything replaced.

Doug
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 07:30 AM
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Thanks Tom for the info.

I don't mind doing the rebuild but I HATE the cleaning!!

Joe
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 1snake
Or 5 mins. with a welder and a grinder and they'll be as good as new and last many decades as long as YOU INSTALL THEM CORRECTLY.

Jim
I would repair them and reuse but from banging up and down in the A frame they are worn thin on the edges. I have to replace the lower A frame for the same reason. Also one of them is missing the cup for the shock bushing.
Joe

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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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OK, and now that the subject has come up on lower A-frames (53-62 Vettes and 49-54 pass cars), let me add some more info.
Unlike later cars, these lower A-frames are not left and right (sort of).
What makes one of these early lower A-frames L or R is the bracket for the sway bar link. These brackets are attached with 4 spot welds.
If for example, you need to replace a left lower A-frame, and all you can find is a right one, buy it. Then VERY CAREFULLY, drill part way through the 4 spot welds and then pop off the bracket. Smooth down the 4 spots on the A-frame. Position and weld (put a weld where each of the 4 spot welds were) the bracket over on the other side of the A-frame and VOILA, you now have a left lower A-frame!!!!!!!!!!

Tom Parsons

Last edited by DZAUTO; Jul 7, 2011 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 11:38 AM
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Default Same thing

I had the issue of the lower mount pulling through the a-arm. Purchased a new mount and installed it, some months later it was pulled throught again. Close inspection showed that the hole in the a-arm was damaged and required some welding to build the "lip" up to hold the mount. Some welding and some grinds and she was good as new. Be sure to check this probelm while we're working on the front end.
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