coolant additive help
#2
Race Director
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C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
Tom, It would be helpful if you told us more. Engine configuration/mods-vs-stock. What is the gauge reading, versus an actual reading via a heat gun at various points. Does this happen at speed or idle. Many of things will help us. Overall I think these additives fall in the catagory of snake oil, but I'm not passing judgement. Tell us more. Dennis
#4
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You really need too establish the actual operating temp and go from there. Sometimes a phanolic resin insulator between the carb and manifold can help, but it may cause air breather interference with the hood. Dennis
#5
Team Owner
No - you need to get an I/R temperature gun and shoot the carb bowls to see what the temperature is there. You can have a perfectly cool-running car as far as water temperature goes and still get fuel percolation...the two items are not always related.
#8
Melting Slicks
I agree on Water Wetter not being all that effective. I just did a complete engine and rad flush and replaced all my coolant and decided not to use WW again. If it does anything, I can say from my past experience it doesn't do much.
#9
Le Mans Master
#11
Melting Slicks
some racing groups specify water wetter exclusively, because spilled glycol coolant is so slippery and doesnt clean up easily.
220 degrees is ok, 230 is too hot. Our old vettes are undercooled compared to new cars you may be used to these days, but out new cars still have 190-200 degree thermostats.
You may need to fork out for a very good radiator.
220 degrees is ok, 230 is too hot. Our old vettes are undercooled compared to new cars you may be used to these days, but out new cars still have 190-200 degree thermostats.
You may need to fork out for a very good radiator.
#13
Le Mans Master
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Has your radiator ever been gone been cleaned? I suspect that most of these 40 yr.old radiators are running at an efficiency rate of 70%. Cheapest fix is a DeWitt. Troubles are gone.
#14
Racer
Since this should be a summer car only. I block the eggaust crossover between the intake and the heads with some thin stainless steel. This will cool down the carb. I have found if you run less coolant and more water , say only good for 0 degrees, then go back to 50/50for the winter, it transfers the heat better . It breaks the surface tension. I have been battling heat for 38 years.
#15
Melting Slicks
#16
Drifting
I agree block the crossover under carbs/ I run mt 2x4 setup that way now .no heat riser at all eliminated with a block , and less anti freeze helps as well .another thing buy good gas if possible .also do have a electric fan but never need to use it .knock on wood !
#17
Le Mans Master
Water Wetter is nothing more than a "surfactant". If you are using plain water, it will help. If you are using a combination of anti-freeze and water, you're wasting your money. Anti-freeze already has it in it.
Jim
Jim
#18
Team Owner
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http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...em/cooling.pdf
As noted in the last sentence, solutions to cooling problems come in boxes, not in bottles.
#19
Drifting
The only cooling system fluid trick that works is totally flushing and replacing the water and anti-freeze/coolant with a synthetic replacement fuild. Motorcycle racers and auto racers go this route.
#20
Melting Slicks
The additive packages in antifreeze do lose their effectiveness and should probably be replaced ever couple of years (the additive package, that includes surfactants and corrosion inhibitors). The antifreeze itself never wears out. I was involved in some OEM research on this one. You'll find the same conclusion in johnZ's article above. We just differ on the need to replace the entire coolant load...
Harry
Harry
Last edited by 66since71; 07-08-2011 at 06:39 PM.